Hurricane Kiter wrote:
Looking to tow with our Class A motor-home. Must the vehicle be rear wheel drive, manual transmission, rewired, running to operate the brakes? I need to know this to make the right choice. Thank you in advance.
Vehicles fall into 3x2 categories for towing.
First the 2: Too heavy, not too heavy, You want NOT too heavy
now the 3
Some can be towed as is, Just hook 'em up and go.. Occasionally you need to stop say every 4 hours and do something.
Some can not be towed 4 down no matter what you do. This includes 2wd JEEPS with automatic transmissions (And some 4wd and AWD models as well).
Some can be towed WITH modification.. Examples...
Many light trucks (RWD) can be towed after addition of a drive shaft disconnect. When you "De-clutch" (Using British English for that one) it is basically no different than dropping the drive shaft. Except that when it comes time to drop and drive You just re-clutch (move the lever the other way).
On my first towed I used an "Axel Lock" Esentally the same device but for FWD cars.. I turned the wheel left, reached behind it with an oil filter wrench and turned a collar.. The wheel was no longer connected to the half shaft.. The differential spun freely if the other wheel turned..
In both of these cases you tow with the tranny in PARK (Both were automatic transmission)
On my current towed.. Front wheel drive.. The axle lock is imp;ractical, not enough room to reach in and lock/unlock it. So I use a LUBE PUMP, This pump circulates tranny fulid same as if the engine was in idle.. Works great, Tow in NEUTRAL, not park.
However you need to read the guide, OR go to the Remco Towing store and fill in the candidate car and see what they say.
The Mods (All 3 versions) run about fifteen hundred installed (Bit more or less depending on several factors)