Waste Valve Issues

[grwms]

When I first got my small motorhome, the black valve opened without any problems, but after several years it got damaged and I've had nothing but problems since then.

The first place in Crossville, TN didn't have the right configuration, but rigged up something in a crisis that worked, but stuck out from the side of the unit more than the original design.

A mobile repairman in Florida rebuilt it the way it had been, but the handle seemed to bind and was difficult to slide out. I replaced it with a Valterra that is just as bad.

Now I'm on my 3rd Valterra blade and it simply will NOT slide open more than 1.5 inches, and that with considerable effort. It is difficult to get much leverage, because the handle is not far from the rear tire, but it wasn't a problem when I first got the rig. These newer blades/handles are just so stiff. I've lubricated with vaseline, WD40 and silicone. Nothing seems to make a difference.

I'm looking at cables, which don't look all that sturdy to me. I'm considering electric and read some posts that indicate you can work them manually if the electric fails. But I try to keep things as simple as possible on the theory there's less to go wrong. I see that Amazon has a unit where both handles appear to point out where they could be pulled much easier. Has anyone else been having difficulty with the basic Valterra handle not sliding out?

[wittmeba]

For some reason many seem to want to discount WD40 for its ability to lubricate. IMO - it is pretty much a miracle chemical that comes in a spray can and does a lot of good things in the mechanical world for the professional "Tinkerer".

It lubricates, can loosens rusted hardware, cleans road tar from paint and many other uses.

I suspect the problem with the valve may be more related to the handle/cable rather than the movement of the valve. They are difficult to lubricate once installed. If you have the cable outside the rig (not installed) try to drop oil into the end of the cable where the inner wire enters the housing.

http://wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/

[wny_pat1]

Thetford Drain Valve Lubricant works just like it says.

[mdcamping]

OH48Lt wrote:
Vaseline and silicone jell and some silicone sprays will attract dirt and cause problems down the road. WD40 is not a lubricant, its a water displacer. After you replace the current valve, use something like the so-called "dry" sprays such as garage door lube.

I agree, try finding the dry sprays with teflon... I use them on my trailer receiver, lawn mower deck, etc...they work great!

Mike

[opnspaces]

I wonder what's going on that you're going through so many valves. When you said the original got damaged, what does that mean? Did the valve get damaged by road debris, or did it just wear out?

Could the piping that the valve is mounted in be putting undue pressure on the valve itself? I guess you would know this by how tight the valve is by how hard it is to remove the valve after removing the four bolts.

What chemical if any are you using in the tanks? I wonder if something is causing the seals to swell over time and cause the valve to be sticky.

Can you see the valve and handle or is it inside an enclosed underbelly? Is it possible that something is binding up the release rod and the issue is not even in the valve?

Are the tanks still securely mounted, or could they be sagging and putting pressure on the joint holding the valve?

Sorry that all I have is questions, but I figure they might help steer you to a cure.

[OH48Lt]

Vaseline and silicone jell and some silicone sprays will attract dirt and cause problems down the road. WD40 is not a lubricant, its a water displacer. After you replace the current valve, use something like the so-called "dry" sprays such as garage door lube.

[K_Charles]

WD40 will swell the seals.

[Grillmeister]

Some ideas on this thread.