2009 F250 Superduty factory receiver hitch weight rating

[mitw44]

I am trying to make sure I am towing safely with my truck and trailer combination, and thought this would be the best place to find help.

I have a 2009 F250 extended cab 4wd. I have equipped it with a camper shell and bed slide. The truck stickers state:

9200 GVWR
4400 FGAWR
6100 RGAWR
2437 Cargo
The manual says the GCWR for a 5.4L and 3.73 gears is 16,000 lbs.

The factory hitch limits are 6000 lb trailer and 600 lb tongue for weight carrying, and 12,500 lb and 1250 lb for tongue with weight distribution.

The trailer is a Work and Play 18 EC. The catalog lists the factory unloaded weight as 5807 lbs and the hitch weight as 1163 lbs.

I know I need to weigh the actual truck and trailer, and can and will do so at work in the next week.

In the meantime I am a little shocked at the OEM hitch being rated for 1250 lbs max on the tongue! This is a Superduty, for Pete's sake! And my toy hauler is about the smallest one Forest River makes.

My question: Do I need to replace the factory hitch? Etrailer lists a Curt part # 15410 used in wdh mode as rated for a 17,000 lb trailer and a 2550 lb tongue weight.

I do plan on upgrading to a Blue Ox once I have the tongue weight. My dealer sent me down the road with this trailer and a Curt round bar system set up for 8000 lb trailer/800 lb tongue. I am learning not to just trust the dealer that everything is hooked up properly.

[mitw44]

I bought my 2009 F250 in 2013 from a local Dodge dealer, where the previous owner traded it in on a 4 door Jeep Wrangler. When I got it, it had 14,000 miles on it, and there was no evidence that a draw bar had ever been in the hitch. No scratches or missing paint from imside the receiver. There were also no scratches in the bed. I don't believe he ever carried anything in the bed or towed anything. The salesman said the guy realized the only thing he hauled around was his grandaughter to get ice cream, so the jeep fit his lifestyle better.

I had already bought the toy hauler when I had my 2004 Tudra double cab, having fallen for the "1/2 ton towable" line. A couple tows with the Tundra convinced me I wanted more truck.

Even though it was the 5.4L, the main thing I was after was the additional payload that came with the F250. And the rest of the truck was a cream puff at a great price I would have preferred the V10, but I didn't want to do a nationwide search looking for one.

I think RV dealers indirectly sell as many tow vehicles as they do travel trailers! They put people in trailers that are way over matched for their existing tow vehicles.

[myredracer]

We have an '09 F250. I would get to the scale before making any guesses or decisions. Our actual payload is significantly less than the amount on the sticker on the door pillar which surprised me. Your limitation may not be the receiver/hitch rating but available payload cap.

We tow a TT weighing about 7K lbs and with about 950 lbs TW and are using 1200 lb spring bars. We're way below the tow capacity but don't have a lot of room left on payload cap. We have the 4.10 gears which is great for hills and acceleration.

I believe these trucks are known for a tendency to sag when loaded up. I know ours does. Great truck except I'd rather not have 4WD. Nice to have one with only 27K miles!

[SoCalDesertRid1]

If I were changing the axle gearing in that truck, I would change to 4.56 or 4.88. There isn't enough difference between 3.73 and 4.10 to justify the cost of the change, which is $1500-2000 on a 4x4.

I know this because- I changed from 3.55 to 4.56 in my 4x4 F350 several years ago, and added a locking differential in the rear at the same time. Cost was $2000, which included the $300 differential part.

On the ratio, I wish I had changed to 4.88 instead of 4.56. However, without an overdrive gear in the transmission (C6 auto), 4.56 was as low as I dared to go. 4.56 was a good decision for the circumstances, but I still wish I'd had an overdrive gear and gone with 4.88's instead.

You got a great truck there with only 27,000 miles on it! :b. Sounds like maybe a government auction truck?

My '92 F350 was originally a federal government truck. I got it with only 37,000 miles on it. It's been a great truck for the past 14 years I've owned it. 🙂

Toyhauler RV trailers are built with axles far forward, such that most of the garage area is behind the axles, rather than in front of them. Therefore, when you load something heavy in the garage area, the cargo weights the rear of the trailer and lightens the tongue.

A good aftermarket receiver hitch is a small amount of money in the scheme of things and a very good investment in your truck. I would put that quality, American made Curt hitch on the truck and have peace of mind that the factory hitch is not quietly fatiguing and cracking without my knowing, as I happily tow my load.

I put a Curt Magnum V heavy duty hitch on my F350 years ago when I first got it. Have towed many trailers with very heavy hitch weights and the hitch is still in perfect condition, never a crack or bend.

I've put a few Curt hitches on my trucks (2 F350's, a Ranger, and an E350, so far. All but the E350 got both front and rear hitches, most of them from Curt). They build a quality product, and it's actually made here in America. 😄

Can't say that anymore about the Reese/Drawtite/Fulton/HiddenHitch/TowPower line of products anymore. They're made in China these days. :(. Their product is probably still ok, but I have a thing about keeping my money in my own country and employing my fellow American workers, whenever possible.

[mitw44]

The only thing I could do to improve the GCWR on my current truck would be to switch to 4.10 gears, which would add 2,000 lbs to the GCWR. Otherwise, I want to keep this truck for awhile, since its in great shape and only has 27,000 miles on it.

I want to keep it safe, and if there is anything I need to change, I want to do it. I already plan on upgrading to a blue ox, once I know the actual tongue weight. From the numbers I have so far, the hitch appears to be the limiting factor.

I have to be out of town for two days, but will respond again to any comments on Saturday.

Thanks for the help!

[MFL]

Toy haulers typically have a heavier hitch weight, to offset the loaded with toys weight. Your owners manual is showing a very heavy hitch, for a trailer dry wt of 5,800 lbs.

I would not change the factory hitch, due to the 5.4/3.73 not being a strong towing truck, as the 16,000 GCWR is indicating.

The scales will give you a better idea than the brochure. IMO, your truck will work as is, with this trailer.

Jerry

[fla-gypsy]

That receiver rating was pretty universal for that vintage truck. What has to be factored in is how the tongue changes when the W&P is loaded with your toy of choice. It could go down based on the weight added to the cargo area.