Ok, this question is strictly about ride comfort. Jiggle reduction. I'm already well aware of the Andersen's construction, operation, potential drawbacks, etc.My wife can't stand the jiggle when towing the TT. It's to the point where she won't let me tow when we travel together. We try to visit family 1000 miles away (OK to MI) each summer, and that trip is coming up soon, so I'm looking for a way to take the TT. I do not like motels! DW's internal problems medically mean that the ride even w/o TT is uncomfortable, but tolerable. With the TT (when we last did it that way) she was in pain.So I'm asking you Andersen owners out there. Let's say the jiggle with just your tug (no trailer) is a zero, and jiggle with the TT (but no Andersen) is a 10. What number would you assign to the jiggle factor on your rig WITH the Andersen installed? Details about your rig are welcome, too. Mine is in the sig (Toyota Highlander was chosen for its ride comfort on the road along with its 5000 lb tow rating, and it has done the job well for 138K miles).

If the anderson won't solve the "jiggle" problem, consider an "air safe" air hitch. Not inexpensive, but in our case dramatically improves the "jiggle" and ride quality. Especially noticeable on bad concrete sections or frost heaves. And good quality shocks can make a big difference as well. don't know if anything will make the ride as smooth as not towing though.

"...... Let's say the jiggle with just your tug (no trailer) is a zero, and jiggle with the TT (but no Andersen) is a 10. What number would you assign to the jiggle factor on your rig WITH the Andersen installed?"You may think that I am exaggerating, but the answer is "zero" or the same as or better than running solo. The urethane "springs" settle down the jiggles or what some call "porpoising". Those who have not tried it will argue, those that have, won't.

Mike,Your "signature" indicates you are towing a 2011 KZ Spree Escape E14RB.This website says the GVWR for that trailer is 2700#.If you do have a towing weight of about 2700#, the tongue weight should be around 350#.In another thread, you stated you previously towed a 4000# trailer using an Equal-i-zer WDH rated for 1000/10000#.Did you also have the "jiggling" problem with the previous trailer?Are you using the 1000/10000# EQ with the Spree? If so, it is much too stiff.Can you elaborate on the "jiggling" problem?Is the TV bouncing up and down (heave)?Is it rocking side to side (roll)?Is it rocking front to rear (pitch)?Reducing the heave and pitch motions often requires just a simple re-adjustment of the WDH.Ron

Thanks ktmrfs for mentioning the Air Safe, it's an option I was not aware of.TomG2, you're right, that does sound exaggerated! :D But encouraging, too.Ron, although I still have the Equal-i-zer I do not believe it would work well with our current rig. The jiggle is the nose and rear being levered up/down when going over expansion joints and bumps, and of course there's some jarring sensation there too. I'm just towing on the ball. The Equal-i-zer on the old rig maybe did help some with the porpoising (jiggling), but the jarring sensation on bumps was still bad. I can recall the ride still being horrible on rough stretches of highway; we sold that trailer in early 2008. My KZ GVWR is 2800 (just verified on sticker), UVW 2180, and after loading for camping it's got to be approaching that number so that's what I gave; I do have the optional 14" wheels, so the tires aren't the weak point.

You can also look up air ride seats, I was looking into them because my wife too has some internal issues when it comes to jarring action. Cant remember the name of the company but type in air ride seats into google and that should turn up some results. Good Luck! Aint nothing worse than Hotels/motels!

Andersen No-Sway Hitch ride comfort question | Good Sam Community

TomG2
Explorer
Jul 08, 2013
LittleBill wrote:
air ride seat would have been 100% better solution in my opinion. i drive freightliners that with regular seats jar the stuffing out of ya.

the air ride seat has over 5 inches travel and i can hit every pothole in the world and not feel it at all, kind of weird actually

How much for air ride seats for a typical pickup??
LittleBill
Explorer
Jul 08, 2013
air ride seat would have been 100% better solution in my opinion. i drive freightliners that with regular seats jar the stuffing out of ya.

the air ride seat has over 5 inches travel and i can hit every pothole in the world and not feel it at all, kind of weird actually
BenK
Explorer
Jul 07, 2013
The loooong ball shank is tapered and into a complimentary tapered friction
material in the hitch head

Without that friction material, the ball/shank would just rotate in the hitch head
gmw_photos
Explorer
Jul 07, 2013
I have zero experience with the Andersen, so take my comments as pure speculation, and total guessing. With that disclaimer, I have a theory about how it works related to the idea of it "controlling pitch movements". My thought is that since the urethane bushings are the actual "springs" of the device, I suspect they are very short travel, and quite stiff. If I am right, then this hitch may in fact be in effect "locking the rear of the tow vehicle to the frame of the trailer" to a greater degree than a conventional bar type WD hitch. Instead of energy being absorbed and released through a long travel bar, the Andersen "could" instead be transferring these forces to the trailer suspension, and the tow vehicle suspension. In short it may be simply making the suspension system of the tow and trailer do the work, and in the process, it's effectively giving you a very long wheelbase four axle rig, with the liklely benefit of "better overall ride quality".

Guesses and speculation....for what it's worth.
rexlion
Explorer
Jul 07, 2013
I had it to where the rear was down 1/2" vs the front, but didn't try going farther than that. Yes, a half turn of the nuts can be noticeable with this hitch. I may experiment some more... currently hitched up and on my way to Yosemite for a week (woohoo!).
TomG2
Explorer
Jul 06, 2013
Actually, some reduction in "porpoising" is possible with conventional WD setups by varying the tilt of the hitch head and the number of links under tension. Does not always coincide with maximum FALR.
TomG2
Explorer
Jul 06, 2013
Nothing short of 4-6 inches of bituminous concrete will smooth out really rough pavement. The Andersen avoids the bouncy spring action of conventional WD bars. Like I said, it is better experienced than hypothesized about.
Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Jul 06, 2013
Mike,

It has been stated that increasing or decreasing the chain tension will smooth out the ride.

Did you try different WD adjustments to see if you could get the Andersen to stop the hard jiggling?

Did you measure the front-end load or height changes to get an idea of how much load was (or was not) being transferred by the WDH?

Ron
TomG2
Explorer
Jul 06, 2013
One has `to experience the Andersen to believe the improvement. It might take a turn more or a turn less on the tension, but it will smooth out the ride. It will NOT repave the highway, that was my job for forty years.
Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Jul 06, 2013
I think the "jiggle" elimination potential of the Andersen hitch might have been a bit exaggerated.

In retrospect, a Class 4 AirSafe hitch with a weight distribution bracket might have been a better choice.

Ron

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