We made it to our 30th!We decided to run off and do one of our favorite activities - camping - to celebrate. Problem is, the first morning we got there we had a chill put on things. Looks like the thermocouple on our cold water heater* quit. (Fortunately we chose to go to a campground instead of boondocking and there were bath houses) The burner will light off and burn for about 15 seconds while the igniter continues to fire, then will shut down for 30 seconds. It will repeat that three times, then stay off until the switch is cycled.I have decided to replace the water heater because:1. it is 15 years old2. I discovered the T&P valve 3 years ago would not open any more. I attempted to remove it and when I tried I started to crush it. Then I noticed the T&P valve would open again, so I stopped there.3. There is all sorts of rust flakes falling off the outside of it (around the T&P valve and the annode)I am guessing the water heater is a Suburban 5120A or equivalent based on appearance. Most all the labels on it are illegible and I have no documentation for it.My question is should I just get another Suburban 5120A or is there something better I can get without breaking the bank? I expect that we will probably have this RV for at least another 5 years.Your $0.02 would be appreciated!* Yes, cold water heater. Why would you heat water that is already hot?

We had a contest once at work, longest sentence that made sense. One of our mechanics got it with 12 words.

Advise Acquiring Atwood Aluminum Appliance

Why not replace the defective parts, if there are any at all? The lighting symptom you describe is often corroded parts, and/ or loose screws that wont allow the flame detect to operate properly

You have the standard SW6D water heater(Suburban Water 6 gal Direct spark)No real good reason to replace that water heater.......just fix itThe t-stats (under that rubber cover just above the gas valve) are good....otherwise the spark electrode would not even fire/CLICK.Bad t-stats...no DC The control module is OK cause DC is getting to spark electrode (CLICK) and gas valve (Flame lights)The spark electrode is OK..it fires/CLICKWhat is not OK is the 'signal that proves' flame is lit is NOT getting back to circuit board so it does it's 3 tries and then 'locks out'When flame lights off a milivolt signal is generated (flame ionization/rectification)That milivolt sgnal uses the spark electrode as return path to circuit boardBeing milivolt it doesn't take much resistance to stop the signal:* Dirty/sooted/carbon spark electrode* Dirty/loose high voltage wire connections (orange wire for spark electrode* Bad ground.....spark electrode assembly mounting bracket screw ---needs to be clean/tight * Cracked ceramic insulator on spark electrode...signal goes to ground* Spark electrode NOT positioned properly----needs to be 'engulfed' in flame (glows red)In other words.sounds like you just need to clean/position or MAYBE replace the spark electrode.BEFORE spending $$$Suburban 232258

STBRetired wrote:Advise Acquiring Atwood Aluminum ApplianceAbsolutely Applaud Action Advocated Above

Annoying Appliance Aggravates Anniversary Affair

EgorKC
Explorer
Jul 08, 2017
CavemanCharlie wrote:
My water heater is 23 years old and still works fine (knock on wood)

But, it's days are numbed. I bought this unit used 5-6 years ago. I tried replacing the anode rod once and it was so stuck in the tank that I chickened out and gave up. It doesn't look to me like it has ever been changed.

I wonder how long a tank will last on the original rod ?

That anode rod sailed long ago. We camp about 20-30 nights a year in various states with quite a difference in water hardness, minerals etc. Have yet to get more than 3 years before the anode is 90% spent. I always put pipe tape one before installing which helps removal for draining and check each winter.
Chef
portscanner
Explorer
Jul 08, 2017
Well, I got home and it fired up right away. (The water heater that is)
mike-s
Explorer
Jul 05, 2017
"Annoying Appliance Aggravates Anniversary Affair"

Artificial affected alliteration annoys all.
CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Jul 04, 2017
drsteve wrote:
CavemanCharlie wrote:
My water heater is 23 years old and still works fine (knock on wood)

But, it's days are numbed. I bought this unit used 5-6 years ago. I tried replacing the anode rod once and it was so stuck in the tank that I chickened out and gave up. It doesn't look to me like it has ever been changed.

I wonder how long a tank will last on the original rod ?

Soak it in penetrating oil overnight, then use a six point socket and an impact wrench.

Maybe, or maybe it will just rip it out of the (weakened by corrosion) side of the tank. Then I would have to get a new one right away.

If I were to try it I would do it in the spring before first use so that I would have the time to get and install a new one.
drsteve
Explorer
Jul 03, 2017
CavemanCharlie wrote:
My water heater is 23 years old and still works fine (knock on wood)

But, it's days are numbed. I bought this unit used 5-6 years ago. I tried replacing the anode rod once and it was so stuck in the tank that I chickened out and gave up. It doesn't look to me like it has ever been changed.

I wonder how long a tank will last on the original rod ?

Soak it in penetrating oil overnight, then use a six point socket and an impact wrench.
CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Jul 03, 2017
My water heater is 23 years old and still works fine (knock on wood)

But, it's days are numbed. I bought this unit used 5-6 years ago. I tried replacing the anode rod once and it was so stuck in the tank that I chickened out and gave up. It doesn't look to me like it has ever been changed.

I wonder how long a tank will last on the original rod ?
nineoaks2004
Explorer
Jul 02, 2017
Water heaters have a problem of build up of rust and iron sediment in the tank,
this plugs the unit up and slows water output. However the decision is yours, but if you got 15 years out of it might be time to replace, some of the newer "tankless"models have instant hot water and fit right in the same area as the 6 or 10 gallon units. In the end the decision is up to you.. Good Luck and Happy camping
portscanner
Explorer
Jul 02, 2017
Problem is I cant get the P&T valve out to replace it. Any suggestions?

Annode is in good condition (replaced it not too long ago)

Unfortunately, lots of rust on anything that will rust. It was that way when I bought the camper used. The P&T valve is rusted in place.

Mountain Mama wrote:
Can't it just be used on electric? We've never used ours on gas. The only problem I see is if electricity is not available.

This model is gas only.
SCVJeff
Explorer
Jun 26, 2017
Mountain Mama wrote:
Can't it just be used on electric? We've never used ours on gas. The only problem I see is if electricity is not available.
like ANY place one would boondocks or dry camp..
Mountain_Mama
Explorer
Jun 26, 2017
Can't it just be used on electric? We've never used ours on gas. The only problem I see is if electricity is not available.

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