Anyone repaired sway bar 'front' socket?

Lynnmor wrote:
I believe you might be talking about a weight distribution bar, not a sway bar. The ball mount can be cracked if the shank of the ball is too long. Since it is a casting, it would be best to replace it and check for interference with the ball shank. If it is the sway bar that is faulty, Harbor Freight has them cheap.

So, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a new one...

I'm just not so sure I feel that much safer than welding the old one ;-)

camp-n-family wrote:

wing_zealot wrote:
Regardless of whether you replace it or weld it, I'm thinking you must have it way to tight for it to crack and pull open the socket.

Or reversed with it on in too tight of a turn. Get a new one, they're cheap.

Not really sure when it broke...been using it for 15 years with no issues- yeah, make an effort to not get too pinched or stretched when maneuvering in tight places...there was a hard right turn into the driveway that I've made about 30 times...don't think I was any tighter this time than any other...

Like most cracks, it appeared to start small and probably grew over a time period. As in my original post, it fell off at the perfect time! I could foresee some brief ugliness had I been moving- given that it was the front side that fell lose.

I believe you might be talking about a weight distribution bar, not a sway bar. The ball mount can be cracked if the shank of the ball is too long. Since it is a casting, it would be best to replace it and check for interference with the ball shank. If it is the sway bar that is faulty, Harbor Freight has them cheap.

You can fix it, sure... but it'll cost more than the $35 you'll pay for a new one.

camp-n-family wrote:

wing_zealot wrote:
Regardless of whether you replace it or weld it, I'm thinking you must have it way to tight for it to crack and pull open the socket.

Or reversed with it on in too tight of a turn. Get a new one, they're cheap.

^^^^ This

When I had one, my original dealer told me to never back up with it on. He said, backup up (later I realized he meant turning-back-up), could put stress on the ball. He warned the ball could snap on the hitch, breaking the hole out, resulting in having to get a new hitch.

The weakest spot will go first under stress. The metal on that bar is much softer than the hitch and the ball. Makes sense the metal socket would rip out.

wing_zealot wrote:
Regardless of whether you replace it or weld it, I'm thinking you must have it way to tight for it to crack and pull open the socket.

Or reversed with it on in too tight of a turn. Get a new one, they're cheap.

Pull ball mount...turn it over. If holes/sockets are really "egged" shaped you've got your money's worth, it's worn out. But another.

Regardless of whether you replace it or weld it, I'm thinking you must have it way to tight for it to crack and pull open the socket.

Sounds like you are using a friction sway bar, where one end attaches to the actual hitch on a very small ball, and the other end attaches to a ball on the trailer frame. If so... replace it. They are NOT THAT expensive. If you get a new one, you won't have to change either ball (on the trailer or the hitch).

If you lived closer to Indiana, I'd give you one I quit using when I got my Equal-i-zer WD hitch. It was a replacement on my previous camper when the arm that tightens the brake pads down literally, fell apart. I left the little balls on the hitch and trailer, so I also have those parts too. I've been trying to give it away for the last couple years.

Replace it. It's broken. Don't risk it!