Best way to check trlr brakes AND integr brake controller

[tomseeley]

I've got a 2013 GMC 2500HD diesel. I'm pulling a Northwood Nash 26X trailer (not a fiver). Everything works fine, as near as I can tell, but I have one question re trailer brakes.

I took the rig out for the first time this season (since last summer) and I noticed that it did not feel exactly like it used to last year when I applied the truck brakes. I did not have trouble stopping and I did not cancel the trip, but I did drop the trailer off at my local RV center for routine inspection of the brakes, etc.

While driving down the road, with the gain on the GMC integrated brake controller set at 6 where I always set it, I pinched the buttons on the dashboard, at low speed (15-20 mph). It did not feel to me that the trailer brakes grabbed as tightly as I thought they had last year. So that's why I wanted my shop to check the brakes.

That's the background. Now here's my question:

I've had trouble communicating before, with the chap at the RV center. I had trouble this time too. When I told him my concern was that my integrated GMC brake controller did not seem to make the trailer brakes work this year like I thought they had last year, his answer was something like: "integrated brake controllers don't work like third party add on brake controllers do". That seemed to be his way of saying I didn't have a problem at all with my trailer brakes. I kept repeating that my concern was not how my existing OEM integrated brake controller worked compared with some other add-on controller I've never had; my concern was that my existing OEM integrated brake controller does not seem to be working this year the way the same controller has worked in the past!

I never did get my point across to him the way I wanted to! He said, with some sarcasm in his voice, "ok, we'll check the trailer brakes..." but it was obvious he was finishing the sentence to himself by saying "but there's probably nothing wrong with them. It's just your imagination that your integrated brake controller isn't doing what you think it should".

So does he have a point or do I have a possible trailer brake problem?

What IS the best way to check trailer brakes and an integrated brake controller?

[BenK]

Thanks for the education...assumptions are a dangerous thing sometimes...

Will have to really take note the next time one is apart

Now wonder how they manage to keep the self adjuster from over tightening when
it works in the forward direction

In reverse on 'cars' & 'trucks', there is a cable/rod/etc that has a spring on
the pawl to keep it from over tightening. Must be one there too...another assumption... 🙂

[Gdetrailer]

tomseeley wrote:
I've got a 2013 GMC 2500HD diesel. I'm pulling a Northwood Nash 26X trailer (not a fiver). Everything works fine, as near as I can tell, but I have one question re trailer brakes.

I took the rig out for the first time this season (since last summer) and I noticed that it did not feel exactly like it used to last year when I applied the truck brakes. I did not have trouble stopping and I did not cancel the trip, but I did drop the trailer off at my local RV center for routine inspection of the brakes, etc.

While driving down the road, with the gain on the GMC integrated brake controller set at 6 where I always set it, I pinched the buttons on the dashboard, at low speed (15-20 mph). It did not feel to me that the trailer brakes grabbed as tightly as I thought they had last year. So that's why I wanted my shop to check the brakes.

That's the background. Now here's my question:

I've had trouble communicating before, with the chap at the RV center. I had trouble this time too. When I told him my concern was that my integrated GMC brake controller did not seem to make the trailer brakes work this year like I thought they had last year, his answer was something like: "integrated brake controllers don't work like third party add on brake controllers do". That seemed to be his way of saying I didn't have a problem at all with my trailer brakes. I kept repeating that my concern was not how my existing OEM integrated brake controller worked compared with some other add-on controller I've never had; my concern was that my existing OEM integrated brake controller does not seem to be working this year the way the same controller has worked in the past!

I never did get my point across to him the way I wanted to! He said, with some sarcasm in his voice, "ok, we'll check the trailer brakes..." but it was obvious he was finishing the sentence to himself by saying "but there's probably nothing wrong with them. It's just your imagination that your integrated brake controller isn't doing what you think it should".

So does he have a point or do I have a possible trailer brake problem?

What IS the best way to check trailer brakes and an integrated brake controller?

FIND ANOTHER "TECH" or better yet you learn how to maintain and repair your trailer brakes!

Built in IBCs work just as well and even BETTER than third party aftermarket controllers.

You know for a fact that the brakes WERE working well LAST YEAR, so you now know that something HAS changed with the brakes either at the trailer end or the truck side.

Wiring is typically the main culprit, then mechanical..

You need to first do some isolating..

Try pulling the breakaway pin, then pull forward. ALL the trailer brakes MUST lock up and slide with the pin out.

If brakes do not lock up then the issue most likely is bad wiring or mechanical on the TRAILER.

Honestly, there is a 99.9% chance that the mechanic will MISS the wiring all together.

Trailer manufacturers skimp on wire size AND the connectors they use. The connectors they use are not weather proof and the wires will corrode causing a lot of resistance that reduces the current flow at those connections..

I am a fan of scraping the wiring and reworking with heavier ga wire and weather proof connectors.. The result is fantastic brakes that will stand the test of time.

[Old-Biscuit]

BB_TX wrote:

BenK wrote:
Standard for shoe/drum setups are to have the self adjusters do so going in REVERSE...........

Maybe so, but from Lippert web site:

Forward Self-Adjusting Brakes self-adjust during every forward stop, providing up to 50 percent better braking distance and preventing premature brake line and magnet wear.

Automotive drum self adjusting did their adjustments when braking & backing up

Trailer electric drum self adjusting do their adjustments when braking & going forward due to magnet brake shoe engagement lever movement. (Lippert & Dexter)

ON EDIT:
PER DEXTER
Dexter electric brakes may be equipped with a forward self-adjust
feature. This will allow the brakes to adjust on both forward and
reverse stops........forward and REVERSE I stand corrected

[MFL]

Hey Ben, I think that BB TX is right, on a RV trailer, I think the self-adjust brakes will adjust going forward. Most others only adjust in reverse.

BB TX, you beat me to it!

Jerry

[BB_TX]

BenK wrote:
Standard for shoe/drum setups are to have the self adjusters do so going in REVERSE...........

Maybe so, but from Lippert web site:

Forward Self-Adjusting Brakes self-adjust during every forward stop, providing up to 50 percent better braking distance and preventing premature brake line and magnet wear.

[BenK]

Standard for shoe/drum setups are to have the self adjusters do so going in REVERSE

Star wheel is a common reference and is both the self adjustment and manual
component that is turned to adjust the shoes CLOSER to the drum surface

Standard direction to TIGHTEN or move the shoe closer to the drum surface is
to move the adjustment SPOON/ScrewDriver DOWN

The clicking sound is the self adjuster pawl, which is also an anti-back for
the star wheel.

Most 'self adjustment' assemblies for shoe/drum setups do NOT work well after
they develop some brake dust/road grim/etc on them

I carry an adjustment spoon and screw drivers on each trip and manually adjust
trailer brakes often during any long trip

After getting any trailer brakes up to operating temp range...they should skid
the trailer brakes or come very close to skidding

Common issues with trailer brakes not able to skid or come close to skidding are:

• Not up to the min working temp range
• Not adjusted tight enough
• Glazed friction material
• Not enough voltage
• Not enough Amperage
• Worn Magnet and about to go bad

Have found that all of the trailer brake wiring I've touched are way
under or 'just' good enough

Meaning the wire gauge should be increased...the connectors are poor
quality and need replacement...the wire harness routing is poor...the
magnet wiring is in poor shape...etc

A lot of the type of trailer connectors are just good enough and will
corrode over time to become poor connectors to intermittent

[BB_TX]

It is likely you have manual adjust brakes. And I believe the auto adjust brakes on a trailer adjust themselves going forward, not backing up.

My brakes began to seem weak last year. I adjusted the brakes and it was like night and day. Before adjusting when I manually actuated the IBC all the way it would slow me but not abruptly so. After adjusting the brakes, it will slide all four tires. Had to turn my controller setting down.

Lots of brake adjustment info on the net. Easy and simple to do with a cheap brake tool from auto parts store.

[tomseeley]

Hi guys. Thanks!

I'm replying to all answers so far, in one reply. So if you are watching the thread to see what I'm saying, you may have to sort through this to figure out which part of it is my followup to what you said.

1. I forgot to add that while I was driving down the road, I did turn the gain up to 8 for a while. When I pinched the buttons on the dashboard, I did NOT feel that the tug (as one of you calls it; good term) was any more pronounced than when the gain was at 6. That did tend to reinforce my suspicion that the brakes need adjusting.

I did not think of testing the manual brake buttons on the dashboard while at a full stop. I can't do that now, cuz the rig's at the shop, but I'll remember that!

2. I agree the trailer has been idle for nearly 9 months. I wondered what effect that would have, and I noted one of your replies said that that could, in fact, have some effect.

3. I'm not in a position to do anything myself, so at the moment I'll just wait to see what my RV center does for me, if anything! I've thought before that I might need to shop for another servicing site! There aren't that many nearby but there must be some others somewhere!

I was also unaware of the "self adjust feature while backing up". I'll remember that, too, in the future, once the rig gets back from the repair shop.

Thx again.

[AH64ID]

Trailer brakes can often feel weaker after a long period of inactivity. It may take a few uses to get them back up to normal.

You can also try to use the self adjust feature, if you have it, by braking in reverse.

[lbrjet]

I would have tried 6 1/2 to 7 first before taking it to the dealer. You can adjust the brakes yourself very easily but it requires lifting each tire off the ground as you adjust them.

[MFL]

The IBCs are smoother operating, using the pedal. When operated manually, they are similar to other types.

If you used the same IBC last year, and it is not working as well this year, then yes, the brakes likely need to be adjusted.

My IBC works great, it is set at 5, and will just lock the wheels, when quickly grabbing the manual control at 20 mph.

Jerry

[K_Charles]

as they ware they don't feel the same. Adjust them or turn the brake controller up a little and see if that helps. Nothing stays the same forever.

[Old-Biscuit]

Drive down a street at low speed and apply trailer brakes using brake controller manual lever

Should feel trailer 'tug' on tow vehicle

Do same when at full stop......apply brake manual lever and then slowly drive away. Should feel that tug/resistance from trailer

And being that trailer brakes (majority) are NOT self adjusting.....one should manually adjust trailer brakes beginning of each year so that they are properly set ready to grab when needed.