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Break-away Cable?

downtheroad
Explorer
Explorer
Am I correct?
The break-away cable should be SHORTER than the chains...(travel trailer)
Doing some tweaking....

Thanks.
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."

Arctic Fox 25Y
GMC Duramax
Blue Ox SwayPro
41 REPLIES 41

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
Remember, the whole purpose for the break-away cable is to pull the pin on the trailer tongue so the battery on the trailer will automatically apply the trailer brakes. As I understand it, this overrides the brake controller in the tow vehicle. Regardless if the chains hold in place or not, break, or even the trailer goes over a cliff, once that pin is pulled, the trailer brakes locked as much as they can be. It's designed to stop the trailer as fast as possible, regardless if it's still attached to safety chains or not. It really has nothing to do with the safety chains or anything else. It's about stopping the trailer in motion.

A few weeks ago I pulled the pin on my trailer frame (hitched to the truck). My brake controller in the truck was completely useless as my trailer brakes were locked down. And in order to free up the brakes, I had to insert the pin twice.

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
LarryJM wrote:
mike-s wrote:
dodge guy wrote:
If he trailer comes off the ball it will be drug behind the TV, brakes on or not. Tapping the brakes with the brake pedal will actuate the trailer brakes so it won't be crashing under the TV. It's really a simple process that many like to make difficult.
Uh, no.


You got that right. Once you have any slack in those safety chains they can allow the trailer tongue to ver off centerline and once any TT brakes are applied if you even have any since assuming that the umbilical cord hasn't been yanked out or pulled apart during whatever hitch failure you had it will violently yank the rear of the TV one way or another and could result in loss of control of the whole shabang. I can't count the number of reports of folks attempting to control a trailer only on safety chains only to have that trailer rear end them since there is no good way to judge the decelaration differential between the TV and TT to ensure it doesn't go slack or worst rear end the TV.

In my tests of the TT brakes only slowing down the entire rig from freeway speeds lasts anywhere from 5 to 15 sec so this entire event is extremely short as long as those TT brakes are on full and you stay off both the accelerator and TV brakes.

I'm surprised no one has thrown out this "RED HERRING" about either the safety chains separating or the often used and IMO desired single attachment point of them on the trailer being weak and subject to failure. Just remember EACH SAFETY CHAIN is to have a breaking strength equal to the GVWR of the trailer and IIRC Ron calculated that the max tension on a full braking TT is around 75% of it's max GVWR the probability of a safety chain breaking in that 20sec or failure of that attachment point is unlikely and I would put my money on neither occurring over a SWAG otherwise.

Biggest probem IMO is that trying to change a person's existing belief is near impossible when they have already rationalized reasons why their existing belief is correct and are naturally unwilling to admit they have been wrong and are very unwilling to change that prior belief. My only hope in posting and trying to provide the best credible and authortative information I know of is that someone that has not formed a strong opinion is willing to listen to the alternative reasons that I might provide. This breakaway discussion along with the crossing of the safety chains are the two hardest areas to change already formed opinions on what the facts and correct information really is.

However, as I have already said here one can do what one wants since that's there right, but in this case learning from one's mistakes falls in the too expensive category at least for me and I'm going to go with the what I consider the best expert information and what I feel makes sense to me.

Larry


Yes it is just like that. How can you say you have experience with separation by saying "I used the brakes only and it stopped in 15 seconds". that doesn't have anything to do with a trailer hanging on the chains. Your opinion is just like mine, and opinion! I`m going by physics, which says that when you pull something there is resistance no matter what it is. If your setup properly there will be no problem coming to a stop with light braking. If you lay on the brakes then yes you will have problems.

It really is that simple! I`ll quote you and let you figure it out. "Biggest probem IMO is that trying to change a person's existing belief is near impossible when they have already rationalized reasons why their existing belief is correct and are naturally unwilling to admit they have been wrong and are very unwilling to change that prior belief. My only hope in posting and trying to provide the best credible and authortative information I know of is that someone that has not formed a strong opinion is willing to listen to the alternative reasons that I might provide. This breakaway discussion along with the crossing of the safety chains are the two hardest areas to change already formed opinions on what the facts and correct information really is."
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

Tvov
Explorer II
Explorer II
I've never actually checked the length of my break away cable. Now I have one more thing to worry about.... ๐Ÿ˜‰
_________________________________________________________
2021 F150 2.7
2004 21' Forest River Surveyor

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
mike-s wrote:
dodge guy wrote:
If he trailer comes off the ball it will be drug behind the TV, brakes on or not. Tapping the brakes with the brake pedal will actuate the trailer brakes so it won't be crashing under the TV. It's really a simple process that many like to make difficult.
Uh, no.


You got that right. Once you have any slack in those safety chains they can allow the trailer tongue to ver off centerline and once any TT brakes are applied if you even have any since assuming that the umbilical cord hasn't been yanked out or pulled apart during whatever hitch failure you had it will violently yank the rear of the TV one way or another and could result in loss of control of the whole shabang. I can't count the number of reports of folks attempting to control a trailer only on safety chains only to have that trailer rear end them since there is no good way to judge the decelaration differential between the TV and TT to ensure it doesn't go slack or worst rear end the TV.

In my tests of the TT brakes only slowing down the entire rig from freeway speeds lasts anywhere from 5 to 15 sec so this entire event is extremely short as long as those TT brakes are on full and you stay off both the accelerator and TV brakes.

I'm surprised no one has thrown out this "RED HERRING" about either the safety chains separating or the often used and IMO desired single attachment point of them on the trailer being weak and subject to failure. Just remember EACH SAFETY CHAIN is to have a breaking strength equal to the GVWR of the trailer and IIRC Ron calculated that the max tension on a full braking TT is around 75% of it's max GVWR the probability of a safety chain breaking in that 20sec or failure of that attachment point is unlikely and I would put my money on neither occurring over a SWAG otherwise.

Biggest probem IMO is that trying to change a person's existing belief is near impossible when they have already rationalized reasons why their existing belief is correct and are naturally unwilling to admit they have been wrong and are very unwilling to change that prior belief. My only hope in posting and trying to provide the best credible and authortative information I know of is that someone that has not formed a strong opinion is willing to listen to the alternative reasons that I might provide. This breakaway discussion along with the crossing of the safety chains are the two hardest areas to change already formed opinions on what the facts and correct information really is.

However, as I have already said here one can do what one wants since that's there right, but in this case learning from one's mistakes falls in the too expensive category at least for me and I'm going to go with the what I consider the best expert information and what I feel makes sense to me.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
dodge guy wrote:
If he trailer comes off the ball it will be drug behind the TV, brakes on or not. Tapping the brakes with the brake pedal will actuate the trailer brakes so it won't be crashing under the TV. It's really a simple process that many like to make difficult.
Uh, no.

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
LarryJM wrote:
mike-s wrote:
Trailer will be much more stable if its brakes are on than not. Pin should pull before chains break (which they shouldn't) - otherwise you're just adding manual trailer brake control to what you have to do to safely slow down. You really don't want to stop the combo using just the vehicle brakes, with the tongue under the vehicle, or swinging from side to side on the chains.

It won't be like a parachute, like someone said, more like a drogue chute - trailer brakes slow the combo, while the vehicles steers and maintains control.

If you've ever pulled a vehicle with a tow strap, you'll understand - you want to keep it taught or you're going to get yanked around and sacrifice control.


CONGRATS MIKE .... your the one that IMO is starting to get the idea. I've often said the last thing I would want to do is to take one hand off the wheel to muck around with the manual TT brake control and jockey it to get the amount of braking you THINK might be right all of which assumes that your unbilical cord wasn't ripped out during the hitch failure and now have a trailer w/o brakes bent on rear ending you. I want BOTH HANDS ON THE WHEEL with my FULL ATTENTION to simply maintaining control of the vehicle bringing it to a stop as safely as possible. My biggest concern is to as I alluded to in another post in this thread is to keep my wits about me and stay off my TV brakes and simply forget about the trailer since it's going to do what it wants anyway and worry about what I have some hope of controlling and that is my TV and the safety of those there. The one saving grace is I run this scenario thru my mind several times a day when towing as a reminder and have often practiced just how quickly simply letting off the TV gas and applying full trailer brakes at say an initial speed of 50 t0 60mph the whole rig slows down below 20mph at which time things have slowed down to something that just might be manageable.

Larry


If he trailer comes off the ball it will be drug behind the TV, brakes on or not. Tapping the brakes with the brake pedal will actuate the trailer brakes so it won't be crashing under the TV. It's really a simple process that many like to make difficult.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
mike-s wrote:
Trailer will be much more stable if its brakes are on than not. Pin should pull before chains break (which they shouldn't) - otherwise you're just adding manual trailer brake control to what you have to do to safely slow down. You really don't want to stop the combo using just the vehicle brakes, with the tongue under the vehicle, or swinging from side to side on the chains.

It won't be like a parachute, like someone said, more like a drogue chute - trailer brakes slow the combo, while the vehicles steers and maintains control.

If you've ever pulled a vehicle with a tow strap, you'll understand - you want to keep it taught or you're going to get yanked around and sacrifice control.


CONGRATS MIKE .... your the one that IMO is starting to get the idea. I've often said the last thing I would want to do is to take one hand off the wheel to muck around with the manual TT brake control and jockey it to get the amount of braking you THINK might be right all of which assumes that your unbilical cord wasn't ripped out during the hitch failure and now have a trailer w/o brakes bent on rear ending you. I want BOTH HANDS ON THE WHEEL with my FULL ATTENTION to simply maintaining control of the vehicle bringing it to a stop as safely as possible. My biggest concern is to as I alluded to in another post in this thread is to keep my wits about me and stay off my TV brakes and simply forget about the trailer since it's going to do what it wants anyway and worry about what I have some hope of controlling and that is my TV and the safety of those there. The one saving grace is I run this scenario thru my mind several times a day when towing as a reminder and have often practiced just how quickly simply letting off the TV gas and applying full trailer brakes at say an initial speed of 50 t0 60mph the whole rig slows down below 20mph at which time things have slowed down to something that just might be manageable.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
Trailer will be much more stable if its brakes are on than not. Pin should pull before chains break (which they shouldn't) - otherwise you're just adding manual trailer brake control to what you have to do to safely slow down. You really don't want to stop the combo using just the vehicle brakes, with the tongue under the vehicle, or swinging from side to side on the chains.

It won't be like a parachute, like someone said, more like a drogue chute - trailer brakes slow the combo, while the vehicles steers and maintains control.

If you've ever pulled a vehicle with a tow strap, you'll understand - you want to keep it taught or you're going to get yanked around and sacrifice control.

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
LarryJM wrote:
Bobbo wrote:
That is a matter of opinion. Some like it shorter than the chains so that if the chains catch the trailer, it sets the trailer brakes. Some like it longer than the chains so they can manually control the trailer brakes with the brake controller unless they lose the trailer completely. Then the brakes activate.


While it might just be an opinion among non expert arm chair engineers the SIX credible and what I would consider authortative (some more than others) sources that Ron cited in the link I provided above all say the breakaway switch should be activated when the safety chains are still connected. I have never seen a credible or authorative source other than personal opinions to suggest otherwise.

It's obvious one has the choice.

Larry

LarryJM, I want to sincerely and humbly apologize for, ummmm, going in your Cheerios. I am sorry. :W
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
BarneyS wrote:
Downtheroad,
Please learn how to use the smilies such as ๐Ÿ˜‰ :B ๐Ÿ™‚ :E etc. It sure would help many who tend to take you seriously.

Best truck - you have to be kidding! Of course it is the RAM with the Cummings turbo diesel! :E :B
Barney


Never heard of a Cummings before!!!!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

stevemorris
Explorer
Explorer
downtheroad wrote:
OP here...

Now, next question. Who makes the best truck?


hino, Volvo, Mercedes, the've all got our north American pickups beat by miles
2017 Ram 1500 4door, 4x4, 5.7 l hemi, 8 speed
2008 KZ Spree 260

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Downtheroad,
Please learn how to use the smilies such as ๐Ÿ˜‰ :B ๐Ÿ™‚ :E etc. It sure would help many who tend to take you seriously.

Best truck - you have to be kidding! Of course it is the RAM with the Cummins turbo diesel! :E :B
Barney
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

downtheroad
Explorer
Explorer
OP here...
That does it. I've made my decision. I've heard the arguments for shorter and those for longer. I'm leaving our break-away cable alone and just the way it came from the factory.

and...I've decided to just not allow my trailer to break away at all so it doesn't matter what length it is.

Thanks to all who weighed in on this never to be solved debate. You all make good points to be considered.

Now, next question. Who makes the best truck?
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."

Arctic Fox 25Y
GMC Duramax
Blue Ox SwayPro

stevemorris
Explorer
Explorer
I wouldnt want the trailer brakes to be activated fully unless the trailer was completely detached and rolling around by itself

if my tt came unhitched, the a frame would be supported by the safety chains, the umbilical cord would still be attached, so the tt still has lights and controlled braking.

if the safety chains failed(or total hitch failure), the trailer becomes a completely uncontrolled vehicle. of course the umbiblical cord would get a massive yank, the plug would likely come off the whip and the breakaway cable would get pulled applying full braking on the tt.

my safety chains and breakaway are setup that way. safety chains will cradle the front of the a frame so that it wont dig in and the breakaway wont do anything unless there is complete separation
2017 Ram 1500 4door, 4x4, 5.7 l hemi, 8 speed
2008 KZ Spree 260

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
Bobbo wrote:
That is a matter of opinion. Some like it shorter than the chains so that if the chains catch the trailer, it sets the trailer brakes. Some like it longer than the chains so they can manually control the trailer brakes with the brake controller unless they lose the trailer completely. Then the brakes activate.


While it might just be an opinion among non expert arm chair engineers the SIX credible and what I would consider authortative (some more than others) sources that Ron cited in the link I provided above all say the breakaway switch should be activated when the safety chains are still connected. I have never seen a credible or authorative source other than personal opinions to suggest otherwise.

It's obvious one has the choice.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL