Broken/ leaking exhaust manifold bolts

Guess I'm a gambler. Had leaking manifold bolts on my 1994 PaceArrow when it was 21 years old. Soaked the bolts and studs for a week spraying a few times a day with a mixture of aceatone and transmission fluid. Everyone came right out and replaced with ceramic coated Doug thorly headers.

Recently just replaced my turbo charger on the motorhomeHere and did the same soaking procedure and all nuts came right off.

"You've got to know when to hold 'em,

Know when to fold 'em,

Know when to walk away;

Know when to run..."


-Speak

So any luck? did you get them out or bring it somewhere?

All bolts should be tightened to the proper torque, not just using an, it appears tight enough method.

Dtank wrote:

theoldwizard1 wrote:

azdryheat wrote:
It's somewhat easy to do but get a mechanic if you don't know what you're doing.

ABSOLUTELY !

I have been a "shade tree" mechanic for almost 50 years, and replacing an exhaust manifold and studs/bolts is something I would never attempt (except in my broke/stupid youth) !

If it means driving for a couple of more weeks while you save up the money, it will be worth it !!

After reading your thread-starter post.......

X-2 on "ABSOLUTELY".

Pay "the freight" (the mechanic) - and save the grief (yours).

.

X3

If you try yourself and make it worse it will cost even more. Maybe a lot more.

A easy out will work in some cases for some things but, not with manifold bolts. They have been heated and cooled through many cycles. They are dammed stuck.

It's might cost some dough to get it fixed. Might have to remove lots of stuff to get to them. If it's been leaking for awhile you might need to have the manifold removed and plained.

Or, you might get lucky and the mechanic might get them right out.

Don't try it at home in any case.

Well I do almost all my own work on everything. Here's a clue if you attempt it. Remove the wheel (from the side with the broken bold/stud) and remove the inner fender. (usually held in with plastic fasteners) Greatly improves access. Also another vote here for using alternative method (weld nut on) because I have never had success with an easy out.

Exhaust systems and sewer systems are 2 things I won't mess with. Neither ever go well. Leave it to a professional.

theoldwizard1 wrote:

azdryheat wrote:
It's somewhat easy to do but get a mechanic if you don't know what you're doing.

ABSOLUTELY !

I have been a "shade tree" mechanic for almost 50 years, and replacing an exhaust manifold and studs/bolts is something I would never attempt (except in my broke/stupid youth) !

If it means driving for a couple of more weeks while you save up the money, it will be worth it !!

After reading your thread-starter post.......

X-2 on "ABSOLUTELY".

Pay "the freight" (the mechanic) - and save the grief (yours).

.

sign in a shop ...

"This 1 hour job is 1 broken bolt away from becoming an 8 hour job"

I recently had four bolts (out of six) snap on the lower unit from an outboard motor. They were a real PITA to drill out and re-tap. That is with the lower unit in a vice on my work bench. I can't imagine trying to do the same thing to an exhaust manifold bold in the confines of an engine compartment. Something goes wrong, and it goes from bad to worse - unable to drive the vehicle to a mechanic.

I am a avid DIY person. However, there are some things where the amount of frustration incurred will outweigh the DIY satisfaction. Exhaust manifold bolts, with the motor in the vehicle, are one of them.

+1 to spend the money with the mechanic.

HTH,
-Eric