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Buying and installing a new 50 amp female receptacle

NanciL
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have a new 2018 Forest River trailer with a 50 amp twist lock cord and connectors.
I have it in a permanent spot and never plan on moving it.
The power post is only about fifteen feet from the trailers male twist lock plug, and I hate leaving all the cable that came with it coiled up on the ground.
I have a short 50 amp cable with a male plug on one end and bare wires on the other and would like to install a female connector at the bare wire end.
When I go on line I see female twist lock connectors ranging from $19 to $59 and I can't figure out why the big difference in price.

Can any one who has ever installed one tell me if they are all compatible with any 50 amp twist lock male receptacle, or do I have to specifically match the one on my trailer, (speaking of the threads and hinged door configuration) ?
Also, why the big cost difference ?

Jack L
Jack & Nanci
8 REPLIES 8

NanciL
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks everyone.
It appears that I could be wasting some big bucks if one that I got didn't match the one on the trailer, so I'll just live with the long one coiled up on the ground.

Jack L
Jack & Nanci

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
The connector will be a standard configuration for RVs (except that there is one proprietary one, Smartplug).

Make sure to get one that is UL/CSA listed (stamped on the body). There are many that aren't and places like CW have plenty of them so beware. Extension cords, plugs and connectors aren't required to have UL/CSA listings. If you get a cheap one, you could end up regretting it. You get what you pay for but definitely shop around for the best price on a particular brand & part no. You want a connector that is a mechanically good fit and electrically, a tight connection with good contact with minimal resistance, and will keep water out. I wouldn't go cheap on something like this.

Do not get that says something like "connector for Marinco cord" as that's a giveaway that it's not a Marinco part. There are a lot of knockoffs and no-name brands out there. Can't go wrong with Marinco/ParkPower or Hubbell followed by Conntek, Furrion or Camco. Some connectors have a weatherproof boot. Marinco is the marine line of products and Park Power is the RV line. You'll probably fine premium prices on anything that is labelled "marine".

My recommdation is Parkpower and part number is 6364CRV and comes with a boot. A quick search comes up with Amazon as the best price at $63 incl. sh.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I'd suggest to bypass the power inlet that is installed on the RV and pull the wires directly to the load center. That way, should you ever want to use the power inlet and the supplied shore power cord, it would be a simple matter of removing your more permanent bypass.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

toedtoes
Explorer III
Explorer III
Since it's a new RV, can you call the dealer and ask them for the brand of the connector/outlet? Then you'll have something more to go on than just a photo.
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
The connector on the RV is most likely a MARINCO designed for use as a genuine shore power connector (on boats).

Yes there are cheaper Twist Locks.. but they won't fit

HOWEVER: different dealers .. Well one store sells it for 100 another for 85 and sonmeone elese ____ (you fill in the blank).

Just make sure it is a Marinco and it mentiones RV's and not one of the other types of twist lock connectors.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
I don't know if the Marinco 220v 50amp is the same as any other 220v 50amp twist lock. I would get go ahead and get the marinco with boot and locking ring to keep things water tight.

Most likely if it was me and the location was permanent I would cut the cord to length keeping the female twist lock and putting a new male end on it. Then later if I ever needed the extra length I'd put a matching female end on the left over cord section.

If the cord were ever stolen I would still be able to put the right female twist on on the left over cord section.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I would remove the receptacle on the rig and splice the cable directly to the rigs wiring.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

KD4UPL
Explorer
Explorer
There is more than 1 50A "standard" I would make sure you match the picture with what you have. Some are made of plastic, some of metal, some are UL listed, some are not, some are made in China, some are made in the US. Hence, various prices.