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Cold in the bedroom.

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
2023 cherokee wolf pup 22bp

The heat is wonderful.... and not.

It has 2 outlets on either side of the kitchen cabinets. The problem is, with the door closed to the bedroom or bathroom, they get really cold. The doors have a bout a 2 inch gap at the top and bottom.

What do you do to get better heat in the various rooms?
39 REPLIES 39

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
valhalla360 wrote:
swimmer_spe wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
Boon Docker wrote:
Get a cuddle bunny to keep you warm.


I prefer 2. Otherwise my backside gets cold. Unfortunately someone vetoed that option...but seriously. Leaving the door open is the simplest option.

We have a 22RR. I can't find the 22BP but I assume it's a similar situation.

The furnace is mounted under the oven and there is one heating vent pointed toward the back and one toward the front, with both coming out of the main kitchen cabinet. There is no heating duct to the bedroom.

Honestly, we rarely use the furnace as a 1500w space heater is usually plenty down to around 30F. When it is cold, if we close the bedroom door, yes, almost no heat goes to the bedroom and there isn't room to put a space heater in the bedroom.

A simple solution assuming you have shore power is to turn the air/con fan on (fan mode not cooling mode). This will circulate the the warmed air from the back up to the bedroom as the air/con is ducted with a vent in the bedroom.

One item that might help clarify answers: Why do you not want the door open?


It is the 22RR. I misread it....


I did not know I could run the fan on the AC unit. It does not have a separate panel. If that is all I need to do, then that would work for some places. It also means that for others, I'm investing in a Honda generator....


You might need to get someone to wire the thermostat to allow it. The digital thermostats combine the air/con, heat and fan functions and automatically select which fan (furnace or air/con) is run. But it shouldn't be anything complex to wire in a switch for the air/con fan. The fan by itself doesn't draw a lot of wattage, so should be no problem for the electrical system to run both air/con and furnace fans.

Alternatively, you could check if there is a heat strip option for the air/con. As mentioned, a 1500w space heater does quite well down to around 30F, so a heat strip should handle things unless you do really cold weather camping.


Sounds like a bit much for this year, but I will definitely look into that.

Generally, I tend to camp in to November. I'd say -10C is about the worst that I'd expect. (by then our water lines are winterized.)

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
swimmer_spe wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
Boon Docker wrote:
Get a cuddle bunny to keep you warm.


I prefer 2. Otherwise my backside gets cold. Unfortunately someone vetoed that option...but seriously. Leaving the door open is the simplest option.

We have a 22RR. I can't find the 22BP but I assume it's a similar situation.

The furnace is mounted under the oven and there is one heating vent pointed toward the back and one toward the front, with both coming out of the main kitchen cabinet. There is no heating duct to the bedroom.

Honestly, we rarely use the furnace as a 1500w space heater is usually plenty down to around 30F. When it is cold, if we close the bedroom door, yes, almost no heat goes to the bedroom and there isn't room to put a space heater in the bedroom.

A simple solution assuming you have shore power is to turn the air/con fan on (fan mode not cooling mode). This will circulate the the warmed air from the back up to the bedroom as the air/con is ducted with a vent in the bedroom.

One item that might help clarify answers: Why do you not want the door open?


It is the 22RR. I misread it....


I did not know I could run the fan on the AC unit. It does not have a separate panel. If that is all I need to do, then that would work for some places. It also means that for others, I'm investing in a Honda generator....


You might need to get someone to wire the thermostat to allow it. The digital thermostats combine the air/con, heat and fan functions and automatically select which fan (furnace or air/con) is run. But it shouldn't be anything complex to wire in a switch for the air/con fan. The fan by itself doesn't draw a lot of wattage, so should be no problem for the electrical system to run both air/con and furnace fans.

Alternatively, you could check if there is a heat strip option for the air/con. As mentioned, a 1500w space heater does quite well down to around 30F, so a heat strip should handle things unless you do really cold weather camping.

The muffin fan someone suggested could be fit in the air/con vents with a separate switch to affect a similar solution.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
JaxDad wrote:
I had a similar issue and solved it with a pair of 4โ€ square 12 volt muffin fans intended for computer cooling. I put one at the top blowing in warm air off the ceiling and one on the floor blowing cold air out. They are nearly silent and draw very little power.

The key is they run non-stop, not just when the furnace is cycling.


Do you have a picture of that set up?

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
valhalla360 wrote:
Boon Docker wrote:
Get a cuddle bunny to keep you warm.


I prefer 2. Otherwise my backside gets cold. Unfortunately someone vetoed that option...but seriously. Leaving the door open is the simplest option.

We have a 22RR. I can't find the 22BP but I assume it's a similar situation.

The furnace is mounted under the oven and there is one heating vent pointed toward the back and one toward the front, with both coming out of the main kitchen cabinet. There is no heating duct to the bedroom.

Honestly, we rarely use the furnace as a 1500w space heater is usually plenty down to around 30F. When it is cold, if we close the bedroom door, yes, almost no heat goes to the bedroom and there isn't room to put a space heater in the bedroom.

A simple solution assuming you have shore power is to turn the air/con fan on (fan mode not cooling mode). This will circulate the the warmed air from the back up to the bedroom as the air/con is ducted with a vent in the bedroom.

One item that might help clarify answers: Why do you not want the door open?


It is the 22RR. I misread it....


I did not know I could run the fan on the AC unit. It does not have a separate panel. If that is all I need to do, then that would work for some places. It also means that for others, I'm investing in a Honda generator....

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
I had a similar issue and solved it with a pair of 4โ€ square 12 volt muffin fans intended for computer cooling. I put one at the top blowing in warm air off the ceiling and one on the floor blowing cold air out. They are nearly silent and draw very little power.

The key is they run non-stop, not just when the furnace is cycling.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Boon Docker wrote:
Get a cuddle bunny to keep you warm.


I prefer 2. Otherwise my backside gets cold. Unfortunately someone vetoed that option...but seriously. Leaving the door open is the simplest option.

We have a 22RR. I can't find the 22BP but I assume it's a similar situation.

The furnace is mounted under the oven and there is one heating vent pointed toward the back and one toward the front, with both coming out of the main kitchen cabinet. There is no heating duct to the bedroom.

Honestly, we rarely use the furnace as a 1500w space heater is usually plenty down to around 30F. When it is cold, if we close the bedroom door, yes, almost no heat goes to the bedroom and there isn't room to put a space heater in the bedroom.

A simple solution assuming you have shore power is to turn the air/con fan on (fan mode not cooling mode). This will circulate the the warmed air from the back up to the bedroom as the air/con is ducted with a vent in the bedroom.

One item that might help clarify answers: Why do you not want the door open?
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

dedmiston
Moderator
Moderator
swimmer_spe wrote:
- A portable buddy heater set to low. Depending on what time we go to bed, it will usually run until about 4:30 or 5:00 before the fuel runs out. Looking at your floor plan, you have room for one.

No where to put it safely without it touching something.


They're smaller than you think.

You have room for one in front of your door diagonal from the foot of your bed. The heater has the same footprint as a pair of boots.

I don't like blocking a door, but you have another exit door through your bathroom.

2014 RAM 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually long bed. B&W RVK3600 hitch โ€ข 2015 Crossroads Elevation Homestead Toy Hauler ("The Taj Mahauler") โ€ข <\br >Toys:

  • 18 Can Am Maverick x3
  • 05 Yamaha WR450
  • 07 Honda CRF250X
  • 05 Honda CRF230
  • 06 Honda CRF230

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
I won't sleep with an unvented combustion heater running.

I won't sleep with a generator running

I will sleep with the propane furnace set at a low temperature

I will sleep with a 12 volt electric blanket.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
dedmiston wrote:


- Furnace under the stove in main living area
- No ducting to the bedroom
- Door needs to stay closed for privacy. (I assume that includes the bathroom door.)

Those are pretty hard constraints.

I camp a lot in the winter in sub-freezing temps and our furnace is ducted but it isn't great in our front bedroom. So I think I'm pretty familiar with your situation.

We leave the furnace set to somewhere between 55 and 60 to keep the main areas warm and keep the enclosed belly warm enough to prevent freezing. This doesn't keep us warm in bed though.

Our strategy is:

- Extra blankies
- Sleep as close as practical (including sometimes a dog on top of the bed)
- A portable buddy heater set to low. Depending on what time we go to bed, it will usually run until about 4:30 or 5:00 before the fuel runs out. Looking at your floor plan, you have room for one.
- Get up around seven and put on sweats and move around until it's practical to go outside and start a fire.
- If we're super cold and nobody is near enough to be bothered by the sound of a gen, we'll fire up the gen after seven and run the electric fireplace to heat the place up to 70 so we can run around in cutoffs again like fools.

You just have to be creative though. There are lots of options, but you can't say no to all of them, or else you'll still be cold.


From your suggestions:

- Extra blankies

That works for the interim.

- Sleep as close as practical (including sometimes a dog on top of the bed)

What if I am sleeping alone?

- A portable buddy heater set to low. Depending on what time we go to bed, it will usually run until about 4:30 or 5:00 before the fuel runs out. Looking at your floor plan, you have room for one.

No where to put it safely without it touching something.

- Get up around seven and put on sweats and move around until it's practical to go outside and start a fire.

The main area stays warm, so that's not an issue.

- If we're super cold and nobody is near enough to be bothered by the sound of a gen, we'll fire up the gen after seven and run the electric fireplace to heat the place up to 70 so we can run around in cutoffs again like fools.

Wish we had a fireplace.

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
ssthrd wrote:
You have given a negative response to every suggestion given, so looks like you might have to grin and bear it. Being from Sudbury, you should be used to chilly winter temps. Lol.

If privacy is an issue, and you don't want the door open, you are done. If not, then crack the door or leave it open and get a 12v USB fan for $20 from Canadian Tire.

Maybe hunting in winter is not in your future; at least with what you have.


I am considering the vent through the door.

dedmiston
Moderator
Moderator


- Furnace under the stove in main living area
- No ducting to the bedroom
- Door needs to stay closed for privacy. (I assume that includes the bathroom door.)

Those are pretty hard constraints.

I camp a lot in the winter in sub-freezing temps and our furnace is ducted but it isn't great in our front bedroom. So I think I'm pretty familiar with your situation.

We leave the furnace set to somewhere between 55 and 60 to keep the main areas warm and keep the enclosed belly warm enough to prevent freezing. This doesn't keep us warm in bed though.

Our strategy is:

- Extra blankies
- Sleep as close as practical (including sometimes a dog on top of the bed)
- A portable buddy heater set to low. Depending on what time we go to bed, it will usually run until about 4:30 or 5:00 before the fuel runs out. Looking at your floor plan, you have room for one.
- Get up around seven and put on sweats and move around until it's practical to go outside and start a fire.
- If we're super cold and nobody is near enough to be bothered by the sound of a gen, we'll fire up the gen after seven and run the electric fireplace to heat the place up to 70 so we can run around in cutoffs again like fools.

You just have to be creative though. There are lots of options, but you can't say no to all of them, or else you'll still be cold.

2014 RAM 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually long bed. B&W RVK3600 hitch โ€ข 2015 Crossroads Elevation Homestead Toy Hauler ("The Taj Mahauler") โ€ข <\br >Toys:

  • 18 Can Am Maverick x3
  • 05 Yamaha WR450
  • 07 Honda CRF250X
  • 05 Honda CRF230
  • 06 Honda CRF230

ssthrd
Explorer
Explorer
You have given a negative response to every suggestion given, so looks like you might have to grin and bear it. Being from Sudbury, you should be used to chilly winter temps. Lol.

If privacy is an issue, and you don't want the door open, you are done. If not, then crack the door or leave it open and get a 12v USB fan for $20 from Canadian Tire.

Maybe hunting in winter is not in your future; at least with what you have.
2014 Keystone Laredo 292RL
2013 Palomino Maverick 2902
2018 GMC 3500HD, 4x4, 6.5' box, SRW, Denali, Duramax, Andersen
DeeBee, JayBee, and Jed the Black Lab

The hurrier I go the behinder I get. (Lewis Carroll)

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
Pbutler97 wrote:
MitchF150 wrote:
It seems strange that the bedroom does not have it's own vent?


If you ever take a tour of one of the Indiana RV factories, any of them, it would not seem strange. They look for the cheapest, fastest way to do anything. If it would take 5 extra minutes on the line to run a piece of 4" flex duct to the bedroom you're not getting it. It's good enough. And even if you did get one chances are it would be crushed, ripped, unsecured, or full of sawdust and other debris.


https://www.rvusa.com/2023-forest-river-cherokee-grey-wolf-22rr-toy-hauler-3443282

That is my layout. The furnace is under the stove. There is no way duct it to the bedroom.

Pbutler97
Explorer
Explorer
MitchF150 wrote:
It seems strange that the bedroom does not have it's own vent?


If you ever take a tour of one of the Indiana RV factories, any of them, it would not seem strange. They look for the cheapest, fastest way to do anything. If it would take 5 extra minutes on the line to run a piece of 4" flex duct to the bedroom you're not getting it. It's good enough. And even if you did get one chances are it would be crushed, ripped, unsecured, or full of sawdust and other debris.