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AL65's avatar
AL65
Explorer
Oct 30, 2014

Dingy battery power wire

I am a bit concerned about connecting up a battery charge wire on our CR-V.
I have installed a battery line from a 2001 Chev 23 foot Class C to my 2007 Honda CR-V.
The 10 gauge line from the coach (+) battery terminal, connected via a 20 amp circuit breaker, goes to the CR-V (+) battery terminal. The CR-V battery is also protected by a 20 amp circuit breaker.
I have a removable section at the hitch to join both ends of this (+) wire.
Note: I have installed separate brake/signal bulbs installed in the tail lamp housings on the CR-V that connect via the 6 pin trailer plug.
My questions are:
- do I need to install a (-) 10 gauge wire from the CR-V to the coach? If so, can I just run it from the CR-V (-) battery terminal to a clean connection on the frame at the rear of the coach or do I need to go right to the (-) battery terminal on the coach battery?
- should I disconnect the power wire when the CR-V is parked for the night or for an extended time of several hours?

I plan on installing the Stay-In-play DUO as the CR-V brake system.

Thank you for any suggestions/help.
Ray
  • You do not need a second ground wire as long as the ground in your 6 wire can handle 20 amps. Most always the load is much less. If it's 14 gauge should be safe. (Someone will probably say 12, but look at the wire gauges in OEM vehicle harnesses.

    I included the toad charging line in the 6 way cord.
  • I recommend having a return line at least as large as your charge line. Otherwise you have to depend on ground connection through your hitch, which goes through a friction connection which then varies continuously.

    You might also consider a blocking diode in your charge line. This will limit your charge current somewhat, but eliminate the possibility of having a bad battery dragging down the charge on a good battery.
  • Hi Gonzo and Ductape,
    Thank you for your quick replies.
    I have new batteries in the toad and coach, if that makes a difference.
    I will look into the diodes but not sure if there is one that will support 20 amps.
    If I attach a good ground to the frame at the rear of the coach going directly to the (-) on the toad battery, should that not be enough for a good ground? At least that would match the 10 gauge wiring for the (+). There will still be the (-) in the 6 way connector also.
    Thank you again.
    Ray
  • Yes, but just have a connector in the lines so that in case of a runaway toad the lines won't get torn. There are plenty of 20A diodes out there, just make sure they are mounted on a heat sink (large piece of metal).

    In any case, the charge current will normally be quite small, just enough to keep the battery up due to small current uses while under way.
  • Thanks Gonzo42.
    I do have a breakaway section of wiring installed to cover such an event.
    Will do a further check for the diode.
    Ray
  • AL65 wrote:
    I am a bit concerned about connecting up a battery charge wire on our CR-V.
    I have installed a battery line from a 2001 Chev 23 foot Class C to my 2007 Honda CR-V.
    The 10 gauge line from the coach (+) battery terminal, connected via a 20 amp circuit breaker, goes to the CR-V (+) battery terminal. The CR-V battery is also protected by a 20 amp circuit breaker.
    I have a removable section at the hitch to join both ends of this (+) wire.
    Note: I have installed separate brake/signal bulbs installed in the tail lamp housings on the CR-V that connect via the 6 pin trailer plug.
    My questions are:
    - do I need to install a (-) 10 gauge wire from the CR-V to the coach? If so, can I just run it from the CR-V (-) battery terminal to a clean connection on the frame at the rear of the coach or do I need to go right to the (-) battery terminal on the coach battery?
    - should I disconnect the power wire when the CR-V is parked for the night or for an extended time of several hours?

    I plan on installing the Stay-In-play DUO as the CR-V brake system.

    Thank you for any suggestions/help.
    Ray

    First, #12awg is sufficient for carrying 20amps, but having the #10 is better against the voltage drops that might occur with the longer runs. For the negative ground portion of the circuit, what's in the connector already and the metal connections of the hitch itself should be sufficient. As for disconnecting, it would be good insurance against voltage transfers to a battery going bad.

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