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Do you have a hot neutral at the Box?

FoehnLeigh
Explorer
Explorer
Second-guess your RV Park and check their power pole for any hot neutrals before you plug in your RV. Hot neutrals can be dangerous since the breakers in your RV only work when connected on the hot side. When power-pole outlets are wired backwards, a hot neutral results. This means your RV breakers will not trip during a short.
23 REPLIES 23

Boon_Docker
Explorer III
Explorer III
It amazes me how childish this forum can be at times. Absolutely amazing.

mich800
Explorer
Explorer
IAMICHABOD wrote:
SoundGuy wrote:


SoundGuy wrote:
Apparently news to the OP. :W


Ron3rd wrote:
New member, cut him some slack


New forum member doesn't necessarily mean the OP is new to the RV game and his post which is written with a degree of authority doesn't even mention the most obvious solution that every RV owner should be using - an EMS to protect their rig's electrical system and themselves, including that which he describes. If he wants to play in the sandbox and offer advice he should ensure it's complete & accurate information or be prepared to be challenged, particularly on such an important subject as electrical safety.


^^^^^This is the very reason so many new members are never heard from again... No real help or adding anything beneficial,just berating someone. Oh BTW it is not only your sandbox......
He now is returned to my BLOCK LIST


Wow, but maybe he didn't mean to come off so condescending and arrogant. "play in the sandbox" and "prepared to be challenged" for passing along information that is in fact correct. So the OP didn't mention an EMS who cares. That is like getting angry for someone stating to be careful not putting gas in your diesel tank when the obvious solution is to purchase a gas vehicle.

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
SoundGuy wrote:


SoundGuy wrote:
Apparently news to the OP. :W


Ron3rd wrote:
New member, cut him some slack


New forum member doesn't necessarily mean the OP is new to the RV game and his post which is written with a degree of authority doesn't even mention the most obvious solution that every RV owner should be using - an EMS to protect their rig's electrical system and themselves, including that which he describes. If he wants to play in the sandbox and offer advice he should ensure it's complete & accurate information or be prepared to be challenged, particularly on such an important subject as electrical safety.


^^^^^This is the very reason so many new members are never heard from again... No real help or adding anything beneficial,just berating someone. Oh BTW it is not only your sandbox......
He now is returned to my BLOCK LIST
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
ScottG wrote:
Not really news to those that have been on this forum for any length of time.


SoundGuy wrote:
Apparently news to the OP. :W


Ron3rd wrote:
New member, cut him some slack


New forum member doesn't necessarily mean the OP is new to the RV game and his post which is written with a degree of authority doesn't even mention the most obvious solution that every RV owner should be using - an EMS to protect their rig's electrical system and themselves, including that which he describes. If he wants to play in the sandbox and offer advice he should ensure it's complete & accurate information or be prepared to be challenged, particularly on such an important subject as electrical safety.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
Ron3rd wrote:
Captain_Happy wrote:
All you really need is a volt/ohm meter, and learn how to use it.


Also correct

Not correct. You pull up, check the voltage, and it is good, so you plug in. An indeterminant amount of time later, the voltage goes haywire, your DVM won't do you a bit of good. My EMS-HW30C will protect me.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

afidel
Explorer II
Explorer II
kellertx5er wrote:
afidel wrote:
Captain_Happy wrote:
All you really need is a volt/ohm meter, and learn how to use it.


Or you can buy an EMS and be protected from this an a whole list of other power issues including things like brownouts that a meter can't help with... An EMS is cheap insurance and it's a onetime purchase which means it's paying you back every time you save the time at setup.


I would hardly call $300-$400 "cheap insurance", especially compared to a $20 DVM.


$224 for an EMSLCHW30 on Amazon, and as I pointed out it covers things that a DVM can't cover, plus it's protecting thousands of dollars in electrical stuff in your trailer, protecting you from shock, and the trailer from fire, so yes it's cheap.
2019 Dutchman Kodiak 293RLSL
2015 GMC 1500 Sierra 4x4 5.3 3.42 full bed
Equalizer 10k WDH

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
SoundGuy wrote:
ScottG wrote:
Not really news to those that have been on this forum for any length of time.


Apparently news to the OP. :W


New member, cut him some slack
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Captain_Happy wrote:
All you really need is a volt/ohm meter, and learn how to use it.


Also correct
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Atlee wrote:
Which is why I have a Progressive Industries EMS 30A (30 amp) device.

I always plug it in 1st, and it run a diagnostics check of the CG electrical system. When it tells me everything is good, I plus in my shore plug into the PI EMS 30A. The PI device will delay sending electricity down line to the RV until it has declared the CG power system to be safe.

FoehnLeigh wrote:
Second-guess your RV Park and check their power pole for any hot neutrals before you plug in your RV. Hot neutrals can be dangerous since the breakers in your RV only work when connected on the hot side. When power-pole outlets are wired backwards, a hot neutral results. This means your RV breakers will not trip during a short.


X2
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Hot neutral is commonly known as reverse polarity.

+1 for Progressive Industries EMS. Safety is the priority. My EMS has cut power for all the things listed. Sure the stuff can be fixed but vacation is precious and I don't want to go home early for equipment damage. And certainly not for getting injured.

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Captain_Happy wrote:
All you really need is a volt/ohm meter, and learn how to use it.


afidel wrote:
Or you can buy an EMS and be protected from this an a whole list of other power issues including things like brownouts that a meter can't help with... An EMS is cheap insurance and it's a onetime purchase which means it's paying you back every time you save the time at setup.


kellertx5er wrote:
I would hardly call $300-$400 "cheap insurance", especially compared to a $20 DVM.


Certainly is cheap insurance when it's protecting a $20,000, $30,000, $40,000 trailer! ๐Ÿ˜„
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Twomed
Explorer
Explorer
kellertx5er wrote:
afidel wrote:
Captain_Happy wrote:
All you really need is a volt/ohm meter, and learn how to use it.


Or you can buy an EMS and be protected from this an a whole list of other power issues including things like brownouts that a meter can't help with... An EMS is cheap insurance and it's a onetime purchase which means it's paying you back every time you save the time at setup.


I would hardly call $300-$400 "cheap insurance", especially compared to a $20 DVM.


Save that $$ for when something happens AFTER you check with your MM and plug in. You will need it to replace stuff when a newb crashes a pedestal, it shorts, and turns everything downstream to 220V your rig included. ๐Ÿ˜ž ๐Ÿ˜ž
Happy Trails ๐Ÿ™‚
06 Monaco Dynasty
07 Hummer H3
FMCA 279843

kellertx5er
Explorer
Explorer
afidel wrote:
Captain_Happy wrote:
All you really need is a volt/ohm meter, and learn how to use it.


Or you can buy an EMS and be protected from this an a whole list of other power issues including things like brownouts that a meter can't help with... An EMS is cheap insurance and it's a onetime purchase which means it's paying you back every time you save the time at setup.


I would hardly call $300-$400 "cheap insurance", especially compared to a $20 DVM.
Keller TX
'19 Chevy 2500HD 6.0L
'09 Outback Sydney 321FRL 5er
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