due to rv being closed up. We will begin our full time adventure in early September but for many years we have been quasi retired and used our rv for 2month long trips. This past winter in AZ but at sons so cooler temperatures (like high teens) with rv closed up and condensation...I was wiping the windows a lot.Any ideas how to combat this when you are trying to keep it warm in rv. We had been using Mr. Buddy so he was part of the problem but 2 adults and one lovely dog in rv that is 24 feet long was pouring moisture into the air and then add showers.Any ideas for cutting down on moisture that doesn't involve me running around wiping windows.

Dehumidifier. Run exhaust vent in bathroom when showering.

Leave a roof vent cracked.Use an electric heater rather than propane heaters.Run a dehumidifier.Damp Rid won't hurt, but might not provide enough, in and of itself.

spoon059 wrote:Leave a roof vent cracked.Use an electric heater rather than propane heaters.Run a dehumidifier.Damp Rid won't hurt, but might not provide enough, in and of itself.no difference between electric heat and propane furnace. both just heat the inside air, nothing else.Now propane oven or stove will add water to the air from combustion, about 1 gallon of water per gallon of propane burned. But furnace will NOT add any water to the air in the trailer, it is all vented outside.Propane unvented heaters, another story, they also dump water into the air.If you have humidity problems, go to a big box store and buy the smallest compressor driven dehumidifier you can find. It will do the trick.

To avoid condensation on the windows, the dew point of the air in the RV needs to be lower than the inside surface temperature of the glass. With single-pane windows and cold outside temperatures, that means the indoor relative humidity needs to be less than something around 20% (depending on the exact temperatures involved), which is getting pretty low for one's comfort or health. In short, it may not really be practical to avoid all condensation.That's not to suggest that you wouldn't benefit from some dehumidification and/or air exchange; it is very easy for the air in a closed-up RV that you're living in to get quite moist.

ktmrfs wrote:spoon059 wrote:Leave a roof vent cracked.Use an electric heater rather than propane heaters.Run a dehumidifier.Damp Rid won't hurt, but might not provide enough, in and of itself.no difference between electric heat and propane furnace. both just heat the inside air, nothing else.Now propane oven or stove will add water to the air from combustion, about 1 gallon of water per gallon of propane burned. But furnace will NOT add any water to the air in the trailer, it is all vented outside.Propane unvented heaters, another story, they also dump water into the air.If you have humidity problems, go to a big box store and buy the smallest compressor driven dehumidifier you can find. It will do the trick.Nailed it!We full time in the cool moist PNW, always run range vent when cooking, bathroom vent when showering.We use Cheap Heat electric add on unit to our furnace for heating most of the time.Will NEVER use a moisture absorption crystals as if you spill the fluid on a porous surface it will never be dry again.

Does damp rid have a place in rving in winter/cooler temps

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Jun 11, 2021
Dehumidifier. Run exhaust vent in bathroom when showering.
spoon059
Explorer II
Jun 11, 2021
Leave a roof vent cracked.
Use an electric heater rather than propane heaters.
Run a dehumidifier.
Damp Rid won't hurt, but might not provide enough, in and of itself.
ktmrfs
Explorer II
Jun 11, 2021
spoon059 wrote:
Leave a roof vent cracked.
Use an electric heater rather than propane heaters.
Run a dehumidifier.
Damp Rid won't hurt, but might not provide enough, in and of itself.

no difference between electric heat and propane furnace. both just heat the inside air, nothing else.

Now propane oven or stove will add water to the air from combustion, about 1 gallon of water per gallon of propane burned. But furnace will NOT add any water to the air in the trailer, it is all vented outside.

Propane unvented heaters, another story, they also dump water into the air.

If you have humidity problems, go to a big box store and buy the smallest compressor driven dehumidifier you can find. It will do the trick.
DrewE
Explorer II
Jun 11, 2021
To avoid condensation on the windows, the dew point of the air in the RV needs to be lower than the inside surface temperature of the glass. With single-pane windows and cold outside temperatures, that means the indoor relative humidity needs to be less than something around 20% (depending on the exact temperatures involved), which is getting pretty low for one's comfort or health. In short, it may not really be practical to avoid all condensation.

That's not to suggest that you wouldn't benefit from some dehumidification and/or air exchange; it is very easy for the air in a closed-up RV that you're living in to get quite moist.
rhagfo
Explorer III
Jun 11, 2021
ktmrfs wrote:
spoon059 wrote:
Leave a roof vent cracked.
Use an electric heater rather than propane heaters.
Run a dehumidifier.
Damp Rid won't hurt, but might not provide enough, in and of itself.

no difference between electric heat and propane furnace. both just heat the inside air, nothing else.

Now propane oven or stove will add water to the air from combustion, about 1 gallon of water per gallon of propane burned. But furnace will NOT add any water to the air in the trailer, it is all vented outside.

Propane unvented heaters, another story, they also dump water into the air.

If you have humidity problems, go to a big box store and buy the smallest compressor driven dehumidifier you can find. It will do the trick.

Nailed it!
We full time in the cool moist PNW, always run range vent when cooking, bathroom vent when showering.
We use Cheap Heat electric add on unit to our furnace for heating most of the time.
Will NEVER use a moisture absorption crystals as if you spill the fluid on a porous surface it will never be dry again.
dcason
Explorer
Jun 11, 2021
Forgot to say that we mostly boondock so solar is our power...so electric heat pretty much out of question.

Thanks for the tip on spilling damp rid...didn't know that.

So open vent and window is pretty much and run heat on the wall instead of mr. buddy and vent shower after usage...cooking run exhaust fan.
Tvov
Explorer II
Jun 11, 2021
Make sure you open a window when you turn on the vent fans.

When we camp, I always have the bathroom roof vent opened an inch or two and a window in the living area opened an inch to allow for ventilation.

Your propane wall heater will draw power, but it is just a fan -

Do you have a multiple battery solar system? If not, it may be something to look into so you have more stored power available.
dcason
Explorer
Jun 11, 2021
We do have a multiple battery solar system.

Yeah, need to keep a window cracked as well. We also carry a extra propane tank (extra bbq style...so don't plow into us/boom).
donna
valhalla360
Navigator
Jun 11, 2021
ktmrfs wrote:
If you have humidity problems, go to a big box store and buy the smallest compressor driven dehumidifier you can find. It will do the trick.

You can minimize adding moisture but this is really the only true solution but doing it off grid is a problem.

Damp Rid can help if it's in the back of a closet with little airflow but won't really have any noticeable impact on the larger living space.

Look up the specs on dehumidifiers. A small one might have a 2.5 gallon reservoir and running continuously, you may have to dump the water multiple times per day. How many crystals will you need to absorb say 30-40 gallons of water per week?
dcason
Explorer
Jun 11, 2021
We did just buy a smaller compressor dehumidifier that we will use when we volunteer in florida and when we are NY at kids house in summer...both plugged in.
donna