Excessive receiver/shank play on new truck

[myredracer]

Have a new-to-us '12 GMC 2500HD and tow a TT with Reese DC WDH. I am guessing hitch play has been discussed ad nauseum. The truck has a heavy duty trailering package option with a 2" receiver insert.

There sure seems to be a lot of excess play. I measured the size difference between receiver and shank to be over 1/16". I don't care about vertical movement, but I have to wonder about side-side movement and the effect on the WDH or shank or receiver wear.

Wondering if a shim is available or maybe I could make one up from sheet metal? Or is this amount of play something to just forget about? Have a Blue Ox immobilizer clamp but won't fit on the GM receiver tho. Not sure it would work anyway with that amount of play.

[time2roll]

+1 for a 2.5 shank. The rest is just a crutch.

[allen8106]

VoodooMedicineMan wrote:
You need something like this.

Here's another version I had considered buying.

Link

[myredracer]

Lynnmor wrote:

myredracer wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
If you have a 2-1/2" receiver, get a 2-1/2" shank. I used a sleeve for a short time before upgrading the shank, it made a considerable difference.

Hmm, that may be the better solution. Only $147 @ etrailer. No worries tho., it's just more $$ in the past week, lol! :B

Can someone confirm if the shank would need to be for the Reese DC hitch? Our TT is still 5 hours away from us waiting to get towed home so I can't go out and look at the WDH.

The shank will be 2-1/2" where it fits the receiver, and the vertical area will be the same 2" to fit your ball mount. So yes, it will work.

If you weld and still use the sleeve, note that the sleeve will be free to move as much as the clearance allows. That puts the fore and aft loading more than 1/4" apart, wearing the holes and possibly bending the pin.

Decided we're getting a new 2-1/2" shank. I don't want to mess around with a band aid approach and end up having issues. Thx, you made it obvious what to do.

[Lynnmor]

myredracer wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
If you have a 2-1/2" receiver, get a 2-1/2" shank. I used a sleeve for a short time before upgrading the shank, it made a considerable difference.

Hmm, that may be the better solution. Only $147 @ etrailer. No worries tho., it's just more $$ in the past week, lol! :B

Can someone confirm if the shank would need to be for the Reese DC hitch? Our TT is still 5 hours away from us waiting to get towed home so I can't go out and look at the WDH.

The shank will be 2-1/2" where it fits the receiver, and the vertical area will be the same 2" to fit your ball mount. So yes, it will work.

If you weld and still use the sleeve, note that the sleeve will be free to move as much as the clearance allows. That puts the fore and aft loading more than 1/4" apart, wearing the holes and possibly bending the pin.

[GordonThree]

My 2.5" shank eventually rusted into the receiver and no longer slops around. Just takes a little time and salty roads.

[LarryJM]

IAMICHABOD wrote:
You need a good anti rattle device so you don't get so much play in the receiver,thus magnifying the movement and doing more damage to the receiver.

I have tried almost every Anti Rattle device on the market, most have been no good or so complicated and cumbersome that they are useless. Including the Roadmaster type,totally useless,as is all that have been mentioned here.

Until I found the one at Hitch Rider.

Their Hitch Vice is the best and easiest one I have come across and it really works.

I agree 100% and have been using the Hitch Vice for over 10 years with EXCELLENT results. IT SIMPLY WORKS where others play a distant catch up and fall short.

Larry

[myredracer]

SidecarFlip wrote:
Just lay some weld bead on the shank and grind to a snug fit. Issue solved.

That's an idea! I have a MIG welder but it's only 135 amps and not enough heat. There is a welder guy nearby I use sometimes that could do it for cheap.

[myredracer]

blownstang01 wrote:
This is the one you need Link

That's the one we have now. The way GM has the insert tight up against the 2-1/2" opening and there's no lip for the immobilizer to "catch" onto.

VoodooMedicineMan wrote:
You need something like this.

Same thing with this one too.

Either would be a cheaper solution that a new shank tho.

[SidecarFlip]

Just lay some weld bead on the shank and grind to a snug fit. Issue solved.

[myredracer]

Lynnmor wrote:
If you have a 2-1/2" receiver, get a 2-1/2" shank. I used a sleeve for a short time before upgrading the shank, it made a considerable difference.

Hmm, that may be the better solution. Only $147 @ etrailer. No worries tho., it's just more $$ in the past week, lol! :B

Can someone confirm if the shank would need to be for the Reese DC hitch? Our TT is still 5 hours away from us waiting to get towed home so I can't go out and look at the WDH.

[IAMICHABOD]

You need a good anti rattle device so you don't get so much play in the receiver,thus magnifying the movement and doing more damage to the receiver.

I have tried almost every Anti Rattle device on the market, most have been no good or so complicated and cumbersome that they are useless. Including the Roadmaster type,totally useless,as is all that have been mentioned here.

Until I found the one at Hitch Rider.

Their Hitch Vice is the best and easiest one I have come across and it really works.

[Lynnmor]

If you have a 2-1/2" receiver, get a 2-1/2" shank. I used a sleeve for a short time before upgrading the shank, it made a considerable difference.

[blownstang01]

This is the one you need Link

[VoodooMedicineM]

You need something like this.