Flat Towing

[KathyDave]

I have a 2005 30' Gulf Stream Ultra SE I have never towed anything on the back. I currently own a car that I'm reading can be towed - Isuzu Ascender 2005. Does anyone have an opinion on that? Also, if I can tow it can anyone recommend what (tow) name brand is the best to put on the RV? I know I need something additional for the braking also - any suggestions there would be greatly appreciated.
Also, if anyone knows where I can get this done in the South Jersey area - I'd like that info also.
Thanks for your help in advance.
Kathy

[ronfisherman]

Moved from Class C.

[j-d]

Ascender is like a Trailblazer or Envoy, right? If so, stated weight around 4500. Wouldn't be surprised if it scales out closer to 5000. An E450 can/will tow it, but you WILL feel it. Our bare-bones Nissan Frontier scales 4000 and I set up a Corolla we have, 2500, to reduce the load for longer trips.
If you like, if you need, if you can't financially replace, Ascender, it'll work, no doubt about it. I can tell you I'd rather see close to 3000 than close to 5000.
We started out setting up two toads so we got a Brake Buddy to not duplicate the cost of braking systems. We still use a BB.
Started out with Roadmaster towing gear. I call it "Biblical" since it has the Strength of Samson but requires the Patience of Job. Massive, strong, inelegant but it gets the job done with zero worry of failure.
Recently went from a vehicle-mounted folding tow bar to a Falcon all-terrain RV-mounted folding bar. I like it a lot more.
Blue Ox was the class act in user-friendly base plates till Roadmaster brought out their newer series. The new Roadmaster is every bit as easy to use as Blue Ox.
Every major manufacturer (Blue Ox, Roadmaster, Demco, Night Shift) offers ways to adapt to others' components.
Night Shift makes Ready Brute Elite, an "aluminum" RV-mounted folding tow bar with an integral braking system. It's probably as close to "ultimate" as this equipment comes, right now.
I say "aluminium" in quotes because only parts of such bars ARE aluminum. Look at Roadmaster's specs and you'll see the weight saving isn't as much as the name implies.

[KathyDave]

Thank you all for such good advice!!!

My car is 4WD but also has 102,000 miles on it - so I guess spending it on something permanent is a consideration. However, that being said, I do plan on keeping this car for a longggggg time!!
I never travel more than 8 hours a day because of physical issues, so both vehicles would get an overnight rest.

[Big_Katuna]

I have used a Ready Brute tow bar with built in surge braking for 15 years with no issues. Works great very simple. No box to lift in and install every time.

They are about $700 delivered.

Demco baseplates are usually $100 cheaper than Blue Ox. I have bought three and they all fit fine.

About $350.

I use magnetic lights from Harbor Freight.

$10

Installed my self but Ready Brute can recommend an installer near you or you can take it to them.

[Janss]

In Motorhome Magazine's Dinghy Guide, as mentioned, only the 4WD version of your car is listed as towable 4 tires down. Is yours 4WD? Check the manual under "Recreational Towing" (behind a motorhome), not "Emergency Towing" (or similar) which is if you break down.
Also check the weight rating of your motorhome as well as the hitch rating to be sure they can tow enough weight (car is over 4,000lbs). Hopefully the ratings will be 5,000lbs or more.
I have a Roadmaster Tow Bar, Blue Ox baseplate, and SMI braking system. To activate the braking system, I just have to flip a switch. You can often find used tow bars on craigslist. You can get adapters for the ends of the arms to fit a different brand baseplate if needed. That's what I did. You probably won't need to do this. I happened to already have a Roadmaster tow bar when I bought a used car with the Blue Ox baseplate already installed.

[kalynzoo]

Best? You will find that most people think theirs is the best, or worst. First, you can search the archive towing guides in Motorhome Magazine or the FMCA Magazine. A booklet section is published around Dec, Jan every year listing towables for the following year. You can also search the REMCO website, which will tell you if your car needs modification or is towable. You will then need a baseplate, towbar, lights, and braking system. There are many MAJOR players in the towing industry, and all have excellent reputations: Demco, Towmaster, and Blue Ox are the ones that come to mind. A reputable hitch shop in your area will probably recommend the one they keep in stock and are most familiar with...I see no problem with this. The same hitch shop will connect the towable's (toad's)lights to the motorhome. This leaves the brakes...do get a supplemental brake, really. Here it is your choice. How much towing will you do, how easy do you want the setup, how much do you want to spend. The removable boxes are least expensive (BuddyBrake), then the compact boxes, then the permanent instillations. I have a ReadyBrake, which requires no power as it is a cable activated by surge, however, the instillation can be pricey. It is so easy to use, and has no footprint in the cab.
Lots of good articles on towing in the Motorhome Magazine, and if you join FMCA (Family Motor Coach Association) their magazine is very informative. Membership in both is not expensive and good reading. Both offer perks (discounts) which I have never used. Probably most important is finding a reputable installer.
Best of luck on your hookup, and Happy Trails.

[CA_Traveler]

While the 4WD is listed as towable read the manual.

We started with a box brake but with a lot of traveling it became another chore and switched to one with no setup. And we still have the same 04 car so never put the box brake in another car.

[lanerd]

KathyDave wrote:
currently own a car that I'm reading can be towed - Isuzu Ascender 2005.
Kathy

Need to know manual or auto, RWD or AWD, which engine?

To set up a car for towing (if it is indeed towable) you'll need a base plate that mounts to the front of the car (usually to the frame and behind the front fascia), tow bar assembly, electrical cable, tail/brake/signal light wiring, and an auxiliary braking system for the car that includes a breakaway system.

All of this is not cheap...and you can figure around $3K, maybe a little more depending upon labor costs.

Auxiliary braking systems come in different configurations.

Some, like the Brake Buddy, is a unit that sits in the front floor (driver's side) and attaches to the brake pedal. Typically works ok, but you have to install it every time you travel and remove it every time you get to your destination and then store it.

Other systems can be mounted permanently in the car and you only have to connect an electrical cable (usually part of the main umbilical cable) and the breakaway cable. This type usually requires an "expert" to install it; hence, additional labor charge....but it's a one time cost.

Hope this helps

Ron

[K_Charles]

You asked what is "best", everybody's best is deferent.
Best price, best working, best to carry around?
I also use blue-ox.

[crasster]

Well you'd need a brake buddy or to tow it on a dolly with brakes.

[Bumpyroad]

I also used blue ox and brake buddy. you will hear whining on braking systems that the BB isn't proportional. it worked fine for many years.
bumpy

[Mandalay_Parr]

I have Blue Ox and a Brake Buddy. Been using them for 11 years.
Good stuff. Would do it again.
Kathy, check with your local RV dealer. They should be able to help you out.
Had mine all installed by my dealer. They did a good job.

Might visit some RV parks and ask the folks there. RVers are all willing to share.
Also read your car's manual about towing behind RV.