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Friction Anti Sway

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am towing a 10,000 lb Toy Hauler. I have a 15k Trunnion style WDH with two friction anti sway bars. I am running about 1500lbs of tongue weight. I loosen the friction sway bars when backing into a camping spot but also when I am on a windy mountain road. I felt the frequent turns on a windy mountain road would put unnecessary strain on the configuration. And is sway control under mountain road conditions really needed.

I was wondering what others would think.. Should I run friction sway control when on windy mountains road or ?
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.
10 REPLIES 10

owenssailor
Explorer
Explorer
We bought our first trailer used. It came with a bent anti sway bar. I bought a new one. The instruction sheet said to:
- take it off when backing up
- do not use in snow, ice or slick rain covered roads.

I was not impressed.

Out curent trailer has an Equal-i-Zer 4 pt hitch. Hook it up and you are done.
2011 Jayco 28U
2012 Chev Silverado Crew Cab 5.3 6 spd 3.42 (sold)
2017 Chev Silverado Crew Cab 5.3 8 spd 3.42
Equal-i-Zer 1400/14000
RotoChocks

lenr
Explorer III
Explorer III
My son never used his friction anti-sway bars until he had a log trailer sway push him across 3 lanes of interstate--twice. Now he uses them on his 5,000 lb camping trailer behind his F350 long bed, crew cab, dually. You don't need them until you sway. Other son had to loosen his one time in a rain storm. Theoretically, a slick road (rain, snow, ice, loose dirt or gravel, etc.) is the only reason to loosen friction sway bars.

path1
Explorer
Explorer
OP is right at 15% tongue weight should be towing great.
I don't use my friction bars anymore. 9 or 10,000 pounds and a sliding bar that slides on friction surgace. Percentage wise probably apply more friction when filing your finger nails. Mine is stock sway bar with air bags but only fill bags to level truck. And very cheap hitch. If getting that much movement search here for propride or Hensley. When your towing something with more weight than tow vehicle, when something does move trailer, ya tow vehicle going to move a little also. Just my opinion.
2003 Majestic 23P... Northwest travel machine
2013 Arctic Fox 25W... Wife "doll house" for longer snowbird trips
2001 "The Mighty Dodge"... tow vehicle for "doll house"

DiskDoctr
Explorer
Explorer
If your friction sway control bar is in good condition and adjusted properly, you don't have to loosen it.

The exception is due to LENGTH. On really tight turns and maneuvers, some setups run out of length and either stretch it too long or compress too short. 😮

The bar can separate in one instance and bend/break in the other.

Most of the time I hear of people loosening or actually removing their sway bars is if they are in this situation (often maneuvering into/out of tight camping spots), but could be extreme roads with sharp corners or significant dips and humps.

Keep in mind many (all?) friction type setups are not progressive friction, meaning they have the same resistance if slid the first inch vs 6 inches.

Does it hurt to use more or less aggressive settings by tightening/loosening the friction bar? I don't see how. But not sure it is necessary in 90% of the situations.

Do what makes your rig perform best 😉

2edgesword
Explorer
Explorer
I've had Reese and Equalizer systems and have never made any adjustments based on road conditions. Haven't managed to break anything yet.

goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
I used an EQ with 4 pt sway control for several years. Backed in, towed over some very curvy roads and never had any issues. Have no intentions of towing on ice or snow so can't relate t that part. I just don't get the friction bar thing. I used one on my 1st TT and switched to a WDH with built in sway for the next one. Way less hassle.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
downtheroad wrote:


There are a number of excellent hitch choices out there where you don;t have to touch them once you are hooked up.


With the friction bars you have a choice, with the others you don’t. The OP is correct in his theory.

downtheroad
Explorer
Explorer
Too much hassle for me....tightening and loosening the friction bars for different conditions, backing, etc.

There are a number of excellent hitch choices out there where you don;t have to touch them once you are hooked up.
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."

Arctic Fox 25Y
GMC Duramax
Blue Ox SwayPro

blt2ski
Moderator
Moderator
Backing and slow mountain roads, having a friction sway bar as you describe, may be a problem, in that the trailer will not turn as tight as you like.

I've also heard, wet, icy type roads is a bad thing to have these tightened up too. No experience on my part. Only a dual cam and basic WD bars. I did notice a difference backing with both setups disconnected (better) vs connected.

Marty
92 Navistar dump truck, 7.3L 7 sp, 4.33 gears with a Detroit no spin
2014 Chevy 1500 Dual cab 4x4
92 Red-e-haul 12K equipment trailer

troubledwaters
Explorer III
Explorer III
I leave mine on all the time; sometimes I take it off while backing but not always.