Front Cap Reseal Price

ScottG wrote:
I put a nice wide piece of Eternabond across the seam at the top of our last TT and never had to deal with it again.
BTW, I would not reseal or add more caulk if it's not needed. Caulk on top of sound caulk does no good at all and just makes the job of reworking it later that much harder. I would not dig out good caulk either unless there's overall problems and you are doing it all.

I used Geocel for my front cap trim. Thats what the MFG used.

Exceptional elongation and flexibility
Excellent adhesion to many building surfaces, even when damp
Remains flexible
UV resistant
Resealable, may be applied over itself
Paintable
Asphalt shingle compatible
Easily applied, non-stringing formulation
Tools and cleans up easily
Cured sealant is mildew resistant

Everyone goes right over Dicor self leveling caulk when re-caulking roof items. Every video I've ever seen on roof caulking shows them cleaning the original then applying another layer over it.

You didn't say much about the leak so, just make sure it is not the clearance lights that are leaking instead of the seams.

I also used 4" eternabond on my front and rear seams.

Good luck

midnightsadie wrote:
some how I just wouldn,t trust a dealer to do it right. complete removal ,clean ,redo the job.they cut corners on everything.

Sage advice. The dealer just doesn't care like the customer does.
If you want it done right...

Edit: sorry my phone wanted to say it twice...

some how I just wouldn,t trust a dealer to do it right. complete removal ,clean ,redo the job.they cut corners on everything.

Yep. I do agree about the eternabond, my parents swear by in in their class C.. I think I will order some with the white backing to match the front cap.

Thanks for the good advice.

Using a heat gun to soften the dicor lap sealant and remove it should take approximately 30 to 45 minutes being careful with a plastic putty knife. Cleaning the surface 15 minutes. Applying the dicor self leveling sealant about 15 minutes.

Dont accept a price any more than 2 hrs labor plus 1 tube of dicor on your front cap if you plan to hire it done, but the problem is the wait time for a dealer to get to it. It may be worthwhile to get a mobile tech to come to you.

If you are able, it's really not that difficult and you may find that it just needs a touch up. Also, look at the caulking on your running lights if you have any on your front cap. Do not use regular house window caulk on your roof cap, only Dicor self leveling.

I put a nice wide piece of Eternabond across the seam at the top of our last TT and never had to deal with it again.
BTW, I would not reseal or add more caulk if it's not needed. Caulk on top of sound caulk does no good at all and just makes the job of reworking it later that much harder. I would not dig out good caulk either unless there's overall problems and you are doing it all.

My guess is more than $500. Time to remove old caulk, prep the surface and recaulk.
For the DIY guy about $25 for caulk and maybe 3-4 hours total depending on how handy you are.
Being only 2 years old, I'd just clean the old caulk with alcohol and lay a fresh bead over the existing. I did that exact process two years ago on my then 3 year old 5er.

If the leaks on the roof then do as Barney did, lay some Eternabond at the roof/cap seam.

I would (and did) do it myself in about 2 hours with a roll of 4inch wide Eternabond tape.I did every roof penetration and both front and rear caps on my trailer about 15 years ago and it is still protecting my RVs roof today with never a single leak. If you clean the area well and apply it according to the directions on the website you will not have a leak again. I purchased two 50ft rolls and still have half of the 2nd one left for emergencies (it probably has aged out).
Doesn't get much better than that! :B
Barney