Goodyear Endurance Tire Pressure

[RobWNY]

Recently, I had 4 E rated Goodyear Endurance tires mounted on my 5th Wheel to replace the less than stellar Castle Rock Chinese tires that were on my camper originally. My EEZ TPMS showed Three tires to be at 77 PSI and One tire to be at 78 PSI when I left on my recent camping trip. I noticed that after about 15 minutes at highway speed (65mph) the PSI increased 10 PSI in the Three tires so they were at 87 PSI and 12 PSI in the fourth tire to make it 90 PSI. The tires only increased in temperature 6 degrees in that time span. The PSI and temperature readings remained at these levels for the duration of my 3.5 hour trip. Does anyone know if running the tires at these PSI levels is safe or should I back down the cold PSI a little so they don't go too far over the 80 PSI cold maximum marked on the tires?

[CALandLIN]

RobWNY wrote:
Yes, the original tires were Load Range D tires.

Recap: You got new tires because you wanted the GY brand. Your original tires were ST225/75R15 LRD. GY Endurance is only manufactured with a LRE in that size. Both the LRD & LRE (any brand in that size) conform to the same load inflation charts. So, no problem, at 65 PSI both will provide 2540# of load capacity. The LRE will provide 2830# of load capacity when inflated to 80 PSI. Your wheels are rated for that load and PSI. Make sure your valve stems are good for 80 PSI or greater. Steel ones would be best.

Usually people purchasing new trailer tires go up a load range to provide a higher percentage of load capacity reserves. Probably all RV trailers with a build date of 2018 or later will have tires that conform to the RVIA recommended minimum load capacity reserves of 10% above vehicle certified GAWRs. Using a ST trailer tire’s full load capacity potential is hardly ever going to damage the tire.

Tire industry standards (USTMA) fully supports the OE tire load capacity with this statement. “Replacement tires MUST provide a load capacity equal to or greater than what the OE tires provided”. So, it’s your option to use any inflation pressure between the minimum acceptable 65 PSI, all the way to the tire sidewall maximum permissible PSI.

[RobWNY]

Yes, the original tires were Load Range D tires.

[jaycocamprs]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Do what ya want but proper inflation is critical for ride, stopping and tire life.

All true, but for most trailers irrelevant. Unless you have a major upgrade, your suspension is straight from a buckboard wagon. The braking power of the standard drum brakes is often not enough to achieve lockup. And most of use never come close to wearing trailer tires out. We either change them do to age, or they fail do to age.
Now for those that have Mor-Ryde independent suspension, disk brakes and travel full time it might be relevant.

[Cummins12V98]

Do what ya want but proper inflation is critical for ride, stopping and tire life.

I have gotten 120k on Michelins on my 86 C20 and 98 2500 Ram because of proper inflation.

[Cummins12V98]

RobWNY wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I assume you up sized in load range. Weigh your rig. Use load/inflation chart for your tire and add 5psi. This is per GY Tech Support.

Help me out on this. My camper weighs in the neighborhood of 9700 pounds when loaded, give or take a few hundred pounds. It depends on what we're bringing with us on any particular trip. The stamped maximum load capacity on the rims is 2830 pounds, the same as what is on the Goodyear Endurance ST 225/75R15 E rated tires. From what I can tell on the chart, it says 80 PSI. Are you saying to air them up to 85 PSI Cold?

Did you go from "D" rated tires to "E" rated tires?

What your RV weighs has NOTHING to do with the weight that's on the tires. Tongue weight and pin weight play a part.

[RobWNY]

MFL wrote:
Rob... what Ron means is to weigh each axle/tire, and look up load chart for the weight of the heaviest tire/wheel, then add 5 lbs to whatever the chart recommends. Myself...I'd just go 75 lbs. minimum, but likely would use 80 psi, to take full advantage of the E-rated tires, as well as keep them running cooler. JMO

Jerry

Thanks Jerry. I'll keep them at 80 PSI and won't give any thought to when they go up to 90 PSI during travel.

[MFL]

Rob... what Ron means is to weigh each axle/tire, and look up load chart for the weight of the heaviest tire/wheel, then add 5 lbs to whatever the chart recommends. Myself...I'd just go 75 lbs. minimum, but likely would use 80 psi, to take full advantage of the E-rated tires, as well as keep them running cooler. JMO

Jerry

[time2roll]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

twodownzero wrote:
Air your tires up to 80 psi and don't worry about it.

A RV that has D tires that inflate to 65 based on max load. Now has E why run max?

To gain the additional load capacity.
Although I agree anything from 70 to 80 cold is fine and not worry too much.
I would only go back to 65-70 if the OP encountered handling issues but I am thinking the trailer rides very nicely with the Endurance at 78.

[ktmrfs]

philh wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Kill the high side alarm and keep the low side.

If you really want to end this business; drain and fill the tires with nitrogen 3X's. That will stop all of this.

Nitrogen is a scam

OP, what does your high quality tire pressure gauge read in comparison to your TPMS read out? that will tell you what pressures you need to know.

I have no idea what Nitrogen 3X is, but if it's being sold as a tire solution it's a scam.

One of the common statements supporting N, is water vapor in air. Most (all?) tire shop air lines go through a water separator filter. Is it completely dry, no, but it's dry enough. Tire temperature would have to get deep into 200°F to "boil" the water vapor. If you're tire is 250°F, you're already in deep doodoo.

water seperator filter does nothing but keep the RH of the water to below 100%. They typically don't desicate to 0% RH. Once inside the tire water can condense or vaporise depending on temperature and once vaporized have an increased effect on tire pressure. regardless of temperature once above 32F, water will vaporize till either it is all vaporised or RH-100%. That adds another variable in the pressure due to added vapor.

Now all that, IMHO for typical consumer use, it really doesn't make enough difference to even care about. If your application is racing or other things where small changes in tire pressure have a big effect, then dry air is important.

[RobWNY]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I assume you up sized in load range. Weigh your rig. Use load/inflation chart for your tire and add 5psi. This is per GY Tech Support.

Help me out on this. My camper weighs in the neighborhood of 9700 pounds when loaded, give or take a few hundred pounds. It depends on what we're bringing with us on any particular trip. The stamped maximum load capacity on the rims is 2830 pounds, the same as what is on the Goodyear Endurance ST 225/75R15 E rated tires. From what I can tell on the chart, it says 80 PSI. Are you saying to air them up to 85 PSI Cold?

[Cummins12V98]

twodownzero wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

twodownzero wrote:
Air your tires up to 80 psi and don't worry about it.

A RV that has D tires that inflate to 65 based on max load. Now has E why run max?

Because that is what Goodyear recommends, that is what will keep your tires from getting hot and failing, and because there is absolutely nothing to gain from inflating the tires to anything less than the maximum. I'm pretty sure we've had this discussion before and you have your position and I have mine. While truck tires should be inflated based on load, trailer tires should be inflated to their sidewall maximum.

Sorry NOT true! Call GY Tech support and tell them you are running "D" tires and are at or near weight limit. Then ask them what is the best inflation to run the "E" tires if you up load range.

They will tell you to weigh your RV and use the inflation/load chart take the heaviest tire per axle and then add 5psi to what the chart says,

Reason? They told me better ride, better stopping and better tread wear. That is just one reason for the load charts.

It says MAX inflation for a reason. It does NOY say air to MAX inflation on a tire.

[philh]

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
Kill the high side alarm and keep the low side.

If you really want to end this business; drain and fill the tires with nitrogen 3X's. That will stop all of this.

Nitrogen is a scam

OP, what does your high quality tire pressure gauge read in comparison to your TPMS read out? that will tell you what pressures you need to know.

I have no idea what Nitrogen 3X is, but if it's being sold as a tire solution it's a scam.

One of the common statements supporting N, is water vapor in air. Most (all?) tire shop air lines go through a water separator filter. Is it completely dry, no, but it's dry enough. Tire temperature would have to get deep into 200°F to "boil" the water vapor. If you're tire is 250°F, you're already in deep doodoo.

[twodownzero]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

twodownzero wrote:
Air your tires up to 80 psi and don't worry about it.

A RV that has D tires that inflate to 65 based on max load. Now has E why run max?

Because that is what Goodyear recommends, that is what will keep your tires from getting hot and failing, and because there is absolutely nothing to gain from inflating the tires to anything less than the maximum. I'm pretty sure we've had this discussion before and you have your position and I have mine. While truck tires should be inflated based on load, trailer tires should be inflated to their sidewall maximum.

[lmpres]

Keep the High Temp alarm. That is one of the indicators to an impending blow out.Didn't see anyone else mention it to you, but make sure you have metel valve stems put on your tires. The weight of the sensor will tear up your rubber stems. As said before, 80psi cold, the rising temp is normal when moving.