Greatest fear finally reared its ugly head

[Bob_Vaughn]

In my 50+ years of owning and using an RV my fear raised its ugly head. We left a camp ground in the Mountains of North Georgia and as I would go around really sharp curves I could see the wheels on my 5th wheel from the side and noticed that the rear wheel on the driver side was tracking different than the one in the front. When I got to the bottom of the mountain and the road was straight we had gone a few more miles and smoke started pouring from the axel assembly. I was able to pull off the road and hit the hub with the fire extinguisher. I had had disk brakes installed a couple of thousand miles ago. Luckily a passerby stopped and directed me to an rv place a couple of miles down the road. I was able to limp into their lot. After pulling the tire it was determined that when the installer had installed the new bearings he had not tighted the nut enough and the bearings had wobbled on the spindle. It got so hot it melted the plastic dust cap which is what caused all the smoke. Luckily it was in the day light, had it been dark who knows when I would have found out I had a problem. About 20 years ago I lost a wheel towing in the dark so I said no more...just day light towing. We had to leave our camper until the new parts come in. The longest 11 hour drive I ever made having to leave our home on the road in some one else's care.....

[Dave_H_M]

Good catch there Lynnmore.

I is obvious that Ron is running with tight and or hot nuts. :B

[Lynnmor]

Ron3rd wrote:


100% correct. You first torque the nut to 20 lbs while rotating the wheel. This "seats" the bearings and forces out excess grease. THEN you perform the next and most important step which calls for backing the nut off to the first cotter pin hole. This leaves your bearing slightly loose with ZERO pre-load on the bearing.

This is incorrect. Following these instructions you may still have up to 20 ft lbs of torque on the bearing.

You completely loosen the nut after the seating operation. Then you turn in the nut to finger tight. Lastly back off the nut to the first available cotter pin hole.

Manual

[plain_ol_Bill]

My worst experience was: about 15-18 years ago while towing my 31' terry 5th I pulled into an RV park about 11 PM in Medford OR after a LONG days pull on Xmas eve trying to get home for Xmas day. I have a habit of each time I stop anywhere I always walk a 360 degree tour checking everything out. It was dark this time so after pulling into a pull thru space I grabbed the flashlight when I got out and started my check. I had gone past the drivers side wheels when it dawned on me something did not look right at all. Turning around with the light I saw the rear trailer wheel was there but there was NO TIRE on it. I had not noticed any difference in pulling the trailer, no noise, nothing to alert me. The only thing left of the tire was the bead on the wheel and a black mark on the plastic fender. Moral of this story is that strange things can and do happen. Knee mail sent that night to express my thanks that a disaster did not happen and no one was hurt. Put the spare on the next morning and made it home for Xmas.

[Ron3rd]

jfkmk wrote:
The castle nut is NOT supposed to be tight! If that's what this guy is telling you, take it elsewhere! You're supposed to "preload" the bearings by torquing them to about 20 ft pounds while turning the hub. Then loosen the nut, then retighten AT MOST finger tight and apply the cotter pin. Over tightening the nut is a sure fire way to destroy another set of bearings.

Also, when you replace the bearings, you should replace the race, especially if the bearings were destroyed as described.

100% correct. You first torque the nut to 20 lbs while rotating the wheel. This "seats" the bearings and forces out excess grease. THEN you perform the next and most important step which calls for backing the nut off to the first cotter pin hole. This leaves your bearing slightly loose with ZERO pre-load on the bearing.

[Ron3rd]

opnspaces wrote:
I agree with ttommy. It sounds like the bearings were too tight which causes excess heat. In the end though it doesn't really matter as long as the repair guy gets the replacements installed correctly.

X2, loose bearings do not normally overheat like you experienced. The tech should fix the job and refund all your money.

[Ron3rd]

Sorry to hear that Bob; isn't it great when you pay top dollar for a so-called pro to do something for you and they botch the job?

[opnspaces]

I agree with ttommy. It sounds like the bearings were too tight which causes excess heat. In the end though it doesn't really matter as long as the repair guy gets the replacements installed correctly.

[ttommyy48]

In my experience, wheel bearings that are loose (to a certain point) will run a lot longer than bearings that are too tight. The quickest way to ruin a tapered roller bearing is to overtighten it.

[drsteve]

jfkmk wrote:
The castle nut is NOT supposed to be tight! If that's what this guy is telling you, take it elsewhere! You're supposed to "preload" the bearings by torquing them to about 20 ft pounds while turning the hub. Then loosen the nut, then retighten AT MOST finger tight and apply the cotter pin. Over tightening the nut is a sure fire way to destroy another set of bearings.

Also, when you replace the bearings, you should replace the race, especially if the bearings were destroyed as described.

OP said it is an RV repair place, not just a random auto shop. Chances are they're familiar with servicing trailer bearings.

[jesseannie]

Bob Vaughn wrote:

B.O. Plenty wrote:
Good luck Bob, Might be a good time to check those other wheel bearings too.

B.O.

That is what I am going to have the place that I left it at do. They have a floor jack that is the biggest I have ever seen...

Wheel bearings you are at the mercy of the installer....

That is true with any repair job. Sometimes bad things happen.
Glad you are getting good it repaired with no serious damage.
Jesseannie

[jfkmk]

The castle nut is NOT supposed to be tight! If that's what this guy is telling you, take it elsewhere! You're supposed to "preload" the bearings by torquing them to about 20 ft pounds while turning the hub. Then loosen the nut, then retighten AT MOST finger tight and apply the cotter pin. Over tightening the nut is a sure fire way to destroy another set of bearings.

Also, when you replace the bearings, you should replace the race, especially if the bearings were destroyed as described.

[Bob_Vaughn]

Lynnmor wrote:
I am curious how it can be determined that the nut "wasn't tightened enough." After a total failure, there is nothing to check. Cheap Chinese bearings can fail in a few thousand miles even if they were given perfect service.

When the tech was trying to get what was left of the bearings off he showed me as I was sitting there watching, that the nut was not tight enough ....

[lawnspecialties]

From the title, I figured a snake came out from underneath your seat while you were driving.

[Lynnmor]

I am curious how it can be determined that the nut "wasn't tightened enough." After a total failure, there is nothing to check. Cheap Chinese bearings can fail in a few thousand miles even if they were given perfect service.