Help with weight distribution hitch
Hey all, I've read the stickies and have tried setting up the hitch and have a few questions. Hitch is a drawtight 800 about 13 years old I think. Came with the trailer we bought. My...
Forum Discussion
Do you know if you have the correct rating of spring bar for the actual TW? Don't count on a dealer knowing what's right. Figure on 12-13% of the TT GVWR for an actual tongue weight if you haven't been to a scale. What is the TT GVWR and what is the F150 payload figure (on door pillar sticker)?
Since with new Ford trucks they now say to restore to no more than 1/2 the difference between bars not engaged and unloaded/no TW, does 5/8" mean that the front fender height was 1 1/4" higher or more without bars engaged?
You can adjust the tilt of spring bars on a WDH to shift the amount of weight transferred between the steer axle and TT axles (usually 80%/20% split). You would need to go to a scale to adjust this. Usually adjusting by front fender height is sufficient.
Yes, you need to raise the ball on the truck by using the tongue jack to be able to more easily get the chains onto the snap-up brackets. Means 2 up/down cycles - one to get the coupler engaged and 2nd to raise the coupler/ball up enough to get bars hooked up.
With the bars engaged, you want the trailer to sit level to slightly nose down. It's very important that the trailer is not nose high when the bars are engaged. The chains should be as close to vertical as possible (they move fore/aft in turns).
Since with new Ford trucks they now say to restore to no more than 1/2 the difference between bars not engaged and unloaded/no TW, does 5/8" mean that the front fender height was 1 1/4" higher or more without bars engaged?
You can adjust the tilt of spring bars on a WDH to shift the amount of weight transferred between the steer axle and TT axles (usually 80%/20% split). You would need to go to a scale to adjust this. Usually adjusting by front fender height is sufficient.
Yes, you need to raise the ball on the truck by using the tongue jack to be able to more easily get the chains onto the snap-up brackets. Means 2 up/down cycles - one to get the coupler engaged and 2nd to raise the coupler/ball up enough to get bars hooked up.
With the bars engaged, you want the trailer to sit level to slightly nose down. It's very important that the trailer is not nose high when the bars are engaged. The chains should be as close to vertical as possible (they move fore/aft in turns).
