Hot wheel rims,hub and smell from axle

[TomandDebbieMi]

Greetings, brand new Travel Trailers with Electric brakes. I just bought a 18' Keystone hideout 177LHS. When we returned from out very first outing after picking up the TT from the dealer, i noticed a smell near the tires of the TT. The rim was pretty warm, hub also and there was a smell also. Both sides of the trailer where pretty war. By pretty warm i mean i can tough or grab the hub/rims and hold it with out burn my skin, but not for along time anyway, ( 30-40 secs).

The drive was around 2 hours highway ( 65-70 mph) with the last 15 minutes on surface roads with normal stopping and all.

I have a POD electric brake controller 80500. The dealer installed all of this and set the contoller.Could this be the cause of "hot hub and wheels because it is out of adjustment..I know there is probably numerous reasons for this.. Help, we are newbies to the Travel Trailer world, been PUP owners all our life..

2011 Chevy Silverado 5.3L HD trailer package
2017 Keystone 177LHS TT

[TomandDebbieMi]

Thanks for all the comments, suggestions and Ideas. Turned out i just had to fine tune the controller because the trailer brakes were doing most of the stopping, not the TV.. Learn as you go..Dealer didn't quite explain well enough I guess. All is well and on the road tomorrow to it's winter home..

😄

[BenK]

Wasn't in hopes of someone stating the laws of physics on this
topic...but now gotta state some facts

All friction braking has the friction material rub against something much
harder

That then has the friction material become sacrificial to that harder
material...meaning more of the friction material will be abraded off than
the harder material...in this case, the cast iron rotor or drum

There is kinetic energy in the moving vehicle/trailer and in order to
slow/stop that moving mass....that energy is converted to HEAT by the
friction material rubbing against the cast iron

Braking will ALWAYS create heat and braking down from a higher speed
will have HIGHER temps...each time...



Maybe best to link an older thread talking about this...


Trailer Brakes - How hot is TOO hot?

BenK wrote:
Do a search on brake pad MAXIMUM temperature or working temperature....that is
the temperature before it transitions to 'fade'...really getting so hot the
friction material out-gasses (smokes) to float the material off the cast iron

Below are the working temperatures for the friction material itself and the
cast iron temps will be a 'bit' less...but not much less and dependent on how
well they reject the heat

OEM/stock/mud-hen friction material's maximum WORKING temperature is around 280*C (536*F)

HD friction material's maximum WORKING temperature is around 400*C (752*F)

Performance friction material's maximum WORKING temperature is around 500*C (932*F)

For reference...to fry a T-Bone to medium-rare, the internal temp should be 125*F

Also note that there is a minimum working temperature...below that and
the braking will NOT be very good

So any of the above maximum working temperature will fry your fingers or even
have flesh stick to the cast iron brake material...


Careful of internet forum info...not all are accurate...suspect mine too and
do your own research. I've had mine actually bellow visible smoke...my 2 seater
on a track day, my Silverado and even my Suburban...

Here is a picture of a test run and note that the rotor is glowing...



Do a search here and other internet forums/sites...RAM IBC has an issue
reported and filed with The NHSTA

Trailer brakes 'should' have the ability to skid the tires...but also
well known/documented is that the trailer OEMs 'mostly' do NOT put in
the highest rated braking systems out there...and many disagree with
me on that based on their experience...but experience with OEM trailer
brakes... :R

[Strabo]

mike-s wrote:

ScottG wrote:
If you could smell something then it was too hot.

No - new brakes smell when they're first heated up/breaking in. It's quite normal.

Correct...

[Grit_dog]

^Yup.
Doesn't mean the bearings are properly packed, or the brakes don't need adjustment but if you can touch the rims and hubs nothing's cooking.

[Old-Biscuit]

OP was able to hold hand on hub for 30-40 seconds.
That is NOT hot


Just needs to do a manual adjustment, burnish brake shoes and adjust brake controller

[73guna]

I agree with ScottG, you should not be able to smell the brakes.

[mike-s]

ScottG wrote:
By the time a trailer is delivered, the brakes are far from new.

Nope. The OP is in southern Michigan, Keystone is in northern Indiana. Not much brake use on a few hundred mile Interstate highway trip, even less use which would heat them up enough so they were fully baked in.

[ScottG]

mike-s wrote:

ScottG wrote:
If you could smell something then it was too hot.

No - new brakes smell when they're first heated up/breaking in. It's quite normal.

By the time a trailer is delivered, the brakes are far from new. They've been used (generally at higher gains) by those that deliver them.
And the smell doesn't last long.

[mike-s]

ScottG wrote:
If you could smell something then it was too hot.

No - new brakes smell when they're first heated up/breaking in. It's quite normal.

[ScottG]

If you could smell something then it was too hot.

[TomandDebbieMi]

All great Advice..

[Old-Biscuit]

POD (Power on Demand) 80500 is a Tekonsha basic brake controller.


Being able to hold your hand on hub for 30-40 seconds (long time) is NOT too hot
120*F is HOT (typical temp setting for residential water heater)
I have measured 130*F PLUS using Infrared Temp Gun on my hubs...not an issue



YOU need to adjust brake controller for your trailer braking.
(Dealer didn't do it correctly ---just set it)

Adjusting the Power to the Trailer Brakes
(Instructions for YOUR model)
Once the control has been installed, it is necessary to set the power needed to stop the trailer during a braking event.

1.Connect trailer to tow vehicle.
2.Locate the manual slide knob and power knob on the control.
3.Turn power knob to minimum. Turn power knob in the + direction about a 1/4 of a turn.
4.Drive tow vehicle and trailer on a dry level paved surface at 25 mph and apply manual slide knob.
?If trailer brakes lock up:
?Turn power down using power knob.
?If braking was not sufficient:
?Turn power up using power knob.
5.Repeat Step (4) until power has been set to a
point just below wheel lock up or at a sufficient
force as to achieve maximum braking power

[coolbreeze01]

Even on new trailers, hand pack the wheel bearings and check brake adjustment.

[TomandDebbieMi]

I figured brakes may be the reason because of the smell, but never thought bearings i guess because they are new...but what do i know :).. Thanks for the reply..