I just purchased my first TT. I have towed and setup my friend's TT over the past year, so I have some knowledge. With his TT, we use 2x10's to get things level. I decided I wanted to get leveling blocks, mainly so I don't have to carry long heavy wood. I bought the Camco 10 pack of blocks. My main issue/concern is chocking when I get to a site. How can you chock these things? It looks like you can buy a set of chocks that fit into the blocks, but one side of the tire would be loose. I see a couple options:Only chock the trailer side without levels (don't like this idea) Only raise one wheel and chock the other Buy Camco chocks and have space between a wheel on one of them.http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44505-Leveling-Blocks-pack/dp/B00480BWCI/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=08W6XP4566J4STA44RVN

I vote, skip using chocks that sit on the ground or on blocks, and get you a set of BAL 'X' tire chocks that clamp between the tires of your TT. Highly recommend you get a pair of them (BAL used to sell a 2 pack of them, not sure if they still do?), so you can lock the tires on both sides. Thats what we used for many years when we had an RV trailer, and they always worked great. Held the trailer in place very well, and were very easy to put on and take off. I only use blocks for leveling. And, yes, the Camco blocks you have are a good choice, you will like them. I have two sets of them (total of 20), and still use them pretty regularly.

JMO but the absolute best way to secure any dual axle trailer is to use a set of adjustable BAL Dual Axle Chocks, chocking both the low side and high side tires, regardless of what those tires are sitting on.Unfortunately my current rig has an especially narrow axle spread that doesn't offer sufficient space between the tires to fit the BAL Chocks so I now use rubber chocks secured in position with hardwood spacers ... same principle, just not quite as convenient.Using BAL X-Chocks, or any in-between tire chock that isn't sitting on a hard, flat surface is the worst thing you could do since tires shrink as they cool and X-Chocks that were initially snug will loosen to the point where they can even fall out of position. Norco even includes this warning note in every box of X-Chocks, not to rely on their product to actually secure the trailer, or as it's phrased not to use the X-Chock as a "parking brake".Instead, I use my X-Chocks for the purpose for which they were designed - to minimize camper "wiggle" caused by the wheels rotating on their axis, and for that they do help a lot. :B

I have the extended BAL X-Chocks. It states not to use as a parking brake. Basically use some other chock first. I like your second pic. I'll probably do something similar. I have a wide axle spacing though.

mfifield01 wrote:I like your second pic. I'll probably do the something similar. I have a wide axle spacing though.A thought - with spread axles you could probably still use rubber chocks against the tires as I do but instead of the hardwood spacers use a set of BAL dual axle chocks to secure the rubber chocks firmly in place against the tires. The BAL's minimum spread is 15", maximum is ~ 22".

Leveling Block questions | Good Sam Community

pira114
Explorer II
Sep 16, 2015
I use Legos on one side to level, plastic chocks on the other side and hammer them in place with a rubber mallet. Then use the x-chock between the tires up on the Legos.

That's always worked. I've stayed at some pretty darn un-level spots while boondocking too
Lantley
Nomad
Sep 16, 2015
SoundGuy wrote:
csamayfield55 wrote:
Your only going to level one side so chock the other. There is NO REASON to chock all 4 tires.

Of course there is ... if the site also slopes noticeably front to back and the trailer isn't also chocked on the low side it can easily rotate about the axis of the chocked set. I've had it happen to me and even though it was just a brief shift it wasn't pleasant at all :E ... I wouldn't ever consider not chocking both the low side and high side of any trailer.

Yes I've had the trailer pivot like this as well. It can happen.
Definitely not worth taking a chance
csamayfield55x
Explorer
Sep 16, 2015
So after my response here I ended up in a campground that I HAD to put blocks under both sides! The concrete pad was higher than the ground and my steps banged into the pad so I had to add 1 block to each tire on the right and 2 on the left. Made it kind of a pain to chock it but I got it just fine.

Chris
SoundGuy
Explorer
Sep 12, 2015
SoundGuy wrote:
Pic shows my Lynx / Wood Leveling System -

mfifield01 wrote:
What wood did you use?

Just what I happened to have in my workshop - 3/4" GIS plywood.
mfifield01
Explorer
Sep 12, 2015
SoundGuy wrote:
mfifield01 wrote:
What do you have below the levelers? It looks like a rubber anti-skid pad.

Pic shows my Lynx / Wood Leveling System - securing the Lynx prevents shifting of individual Lynx as I pull up on to a single layer, the wood base prevents any chance of Lynx cracking on an uneven ground surface such as crusher stone. Lynx can alternately be secured to a thin rubber base to prevent shifting but the rubber base can't fully protect against cracking as can wood. I've been using variations of this system for nearly 10 yrs now and I haven't found anything better, even the much discussed Andersen Leveler which merely cradles the low side tires, not actually chocks them ... not a comforting thought when the trailer is sitting on a site that slopes significantly fore or aft. :E
What wood did you use?
Dick_B
Explorer
Sep 12, 2015
Whatever you use they should support the entire footprint of the tires. I like the 2 x 10 idea better for that reason.
SoundGuy
Explorer
Sep 11, 2015
mfifield01 wrote:
What do you have below the levelers? It looks like a rubber anti-skid pad.

Pic shows my Lynx / Wood Leveling System - securing the Lynx prevents shifting of individual Lynx as I pull up on to a single layer, the wood base prevents any chance of Lynx cracking on an uneven ground surface such as crusher stone. Lynx can alternately be secured to a thin rubber base to prevent shifting but the rubber base can't fully protect against cracking as can wood. I've been using variations of this system for nearly 10 yrs now and I haven't found anything better, even the much discussed Andersen Leveler which merely cradles the low side tires, not actually chocks them ... not a comforting thought when the trailer is sitting on a site that slopes significantly fore or aft. :E
SoundGuy
Explorer
Sep 11, 2015
csamayfield55 wrote:
Your only going to level one side so chock the other. There is NO REASON to chock all 4 tires.

Of course there is ... if the site also slopes noticeably front to back and the trailer isn't also chocked on the low side it can easily rotate about the axis of the chocked set. I've had it happen to me and even though it was just a brief shift it wasn't pleasant at all :E ... I wouldn't ever consider not chocking both the low side and high side of any trailer.
APT
Explorer
Sep 11, 2015
I'm with csamayfield - chock the opposite wheels most of the time. If there is a slope, I will use the appropriate chock on the downward side.
csamayfield55x
Explorer
Sep 11, 2015
Your only going to level one side so chock the other. There is NO REASON to chock all 4 tires. I have never used anything but good old plastic wheel chocks and here is what I do. Has worked for me for over 20 years.

level the trailer, use legos as you need. I then put the rear chock in, then back onto the chock slightly and have a helper put the front chock on to kinda load the axles. I then put the truck in neutral to take the pressure off the hitch then into park. This little maneuver locks the wheel chocks in and helps with motion.

Chris

Forum Discussion

Leveling Block questions

About RV Tips & Tricks

Related Content

Leveling blocks

Leveling Blocks???

leveling blocks

Leveling blocks slip

Leveling Blocks