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Locks used in slam latch doors

Winged_One
Explorer
Explorer
As it looks like the other lock thread will be LOCKED soon, I thought I would ask this question here.

Like the 751, etc locks, are the locks used in slam latch doors all the same? Double sided key versus single with the 751.

If so, are there any options?

We had our 5th broke into at a county fairground winter storage couple years back. The one guy nearly ripped the trailer door off getting in. But either he was too tired, or couldn't defeat our slam latch doors. They open to the side (half doors) and have one slam latch on top and one on the bottom.

I learned to just empty out the trailer, and leave everything unlocked.

Anyway... was just wondering whether anyone with a slam latch key can get in?
2013 F350 6.7 DRW SC Lariat
2011 Brookstone 354TS
Swivelwheel 58DW
1993 GL1500SE
Yamaha 3000ISEB
6 REPLIES 6

ryanallie1
Explorer
Explorer
Hi All.

No wonder why a lot of RV'ers have a hard time with the "Locks" and "751 Keys".

First off, I have never had to slam any of our Motorhomes Locks, ever. Try keeping them clean and Lubed. Boy they sure work much better. I close our Compartment Doors very easily and push on the bottom of the Compartment Door, then the nasty so called CH 751 RV Key works so easily and so smoothly. Its called taking care of your things. In the 46+ plus years as Travelers and RV'ers, and mostly Boon-Dockers, we have never had any problems, or have ever broken anything. We have never even had a "Flat Tire" or a "Blow-Out", or have ever broken down.

We have never needed a so called "RV Teck", either in all of these years. I do all of my own work on everything we have ever owned.

"LUCK" I don't think so. As we both are real nut cases about "Proventive Maintance Programes", Period. You can tell a lot about someone buy the way they keep their RV's. And I don't mean just clean and waxed.

Watch people in Campgrounds, and watch how they treat their RV's and the rest of their stuff. Makes you wonder ?

Good Luck To All. Happy Travels. Dan & Jill & our two small "YORKIE KID's" who love to travel as much as we do
1998-34 ft Rexhall, Rexair SL. 460 EFI. F-53. 7.3 MPG. TST TPMS. HWH Levelers. 5.5G Gen. Convection/Microwave Water Purifier/Water Softner. 2 A/C's. Alarm Systems. Honda EU2000i's W/Kit. Steer-Safe. CR-V W/SMI System. FMCA #F414397 Nam-Vet, 66-67-68&70-71

KA4EBU
Explorer
Explorer
If they are TriMark, they are wafer locks like the 751 as far as the 'tumblers'. They are a tighter grooved cylinder and the plug to housing fitting is tighter. Harder to pick or jimmy. They have a lot more codes available.
There is a common key for some locks, like the ch751, and would bet some mfgs buy the locks in mass keyed to the same number. The cylinder is easily removed and can be rekeyed. To master key a wafer lock you have to reverse the blade on the the master key and that is expensive compared to common keyed locks.
Don and Pauletta
2003 Phaeton 40RH
2008 Jeep Liberty Limited 4x4
Misty - Enjoying on the Rainbow Bridge
Sophie - Maltese

Winged_One
Explorer
Explorer
Interesting. Thanks guys.
2013 F350 6.7 DRW SC Lariat
2011 Brookstone 354TS
Swivelwheel 58DW
1993 GL1500SE
Yamaha 3000ISEB

ependydad
Explorer
Explorer
Mine are individually keyed. I was told that is one of the advantages of the slam latches.

There are master keys for them but not everyone has one (specifically the driver who brought my rig back from Indiana - he couldn't get in to install a battery).
2017 Spartan 1245 by Prime Time
2018 Ram 3500 Crew Cab DRW w/ 4.10 gears and 8' bed
FW Hitch: TrailerSaver TS3
Learn to RV- learn about RVing - Towing Planner Calculators - Family Fulltiming FB page

mlts22
Explorer
Explorer
I've seen Trimark, Fastec, and Global Link cylinders and handles. They are OK, but the type of cylinders they have, possess only one real anti-pick mechanism (the rear-most wafer tumbler that holds the cylinder in can get mis-picked and jam the entire lock.)

The handles function and perform as advertised, but what would be nice would be the paddle handles sold by Bolt Lock (Toolbox Latch Retro Fit Kit) that key to the same key as the automotive locks. That way, you don't need a different key for the ignition, the cab doors (if the rig is a class C), the main entry door, and the storage compartments. Plus, the Bolt/Strattec locks are a lot more pick resistant (using a sidebar mechanism that can't be bumped.)

If you want them rekeyed, you can do it yourself, but the blue/yellow key that releases the wafer that holds the cylinder in place is very hard to come by (not even Amazon or eBay sell them). You do get one with the recall kit from FIC, but they ask for its return.

Maybe I'm missing something, but a RV is a combination of a car and a house... so shouldn't the locks be as secure as either? The ideal would be something like Medeco's rekeyable cylinders.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
On my coach the locks are Tri-Mark (Which by the way I am not all that pleased with,< Design and materials are not up to my specifications by a long shot).

I had to change the door latch due to the above complaint, the new one took different keys.

I've had to repair several basement latches.. (I am getting good at it). and found out how to open the basement compartments without using a key. (Very easy to do if you have the right flashlight, And I can see the right flashlight from where I'm typing).

You can, in many cases, get a professional to re-key the lock for you.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times