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Looking for slide out insulation, 1 1/2"

showme
Explorer III
Explorer III
Our 2005 Montana developed a roof leak in a 12' slide out, and I've had to tear off 8' of the 12' length and replace it. I'm waiting on the rubber and adhesives to finish the roof. The walls in one corner were pretty bad, so I've torn them and the ceiling out, minus the cabinets that hang from the aluminum tubing frame/studs which run almost the full length of the slide out.

The aluminum tubing is 1 1/2" deep, but I'm having trouble locating any insulation that will fit. I'm starting to think I may have to cut pieces out of regular 3" batt insulation. Does any one know of a source for this type of fiberglass insulation? Or is there a better way to go? Thanks for any help on this. Lee
6 REPLIES 6

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
BobsYourUncle wrote:
Consider rigid insulation such as SM or similar. It is available in various thicknesses including 1 1/2".

Cut to fit the voids, and for any gaps or going around wiring etc, use a bit of expandable spray foam.

Super light weight and it has an R value of R5 per inch, so R7.5 for your application. That's double what you'll get from regular batt insulation.


Don't use just any rigid foam board, there are multiple types of faom board, some have better R Values than others..

Typical foam board is expanded polystyrene, basically the same as your favorite throwaway foam coffee cup.. Has a low R value just a notch better than fiberglass batting..

The highest R value foam board is Polyisocyanurate or "polyIso" and has a typical R value of 6.5-7.0 per inch. Also has a reflective foil backing on both sides.

Downside is cost, it costs considerably more than fiberglass batting and other low R value foam boards.

Typically available in .5", 1" or 2".

Easy to determine if you have PolyIso at the home center, it will have a light yellow color to the foam, lesser R value foam boards will have white beads (expanded polystyrene) or green color (extruded polystyrene) might find extruded polystyrene in pink or blue colors in 1/4" thickness.

For OP, you can use 1" and add a .5" layer of PolyIso rigid insulation which will maximize the RV value assuming R6.5 (1") and R3 (half inch), that gives you R9.5.

Ideally if you had enough space, you can gain 1 or 2 R factors by leaving a dead air space between the foam boards.

Make sure you really have 1.5" to work with, shaving off foam board thickness would be a real pain and a big mess.

You need a good tight fit between wall studs.

Be aware, foam boards do a terrible job at sound control when compared to fiberglass batting.

showme
Explorer III
Explorer III
Thanks, everyone! I really appreciate these ideas. Sounds better than fiberglass, which I can't find anyway.

Horsedoc
Explorer II
Explorer II
foil backing glued to foam and cut to size
horsedoc
2008 Damon Essence
2013 Jeep Sahara Unlimited
Blue Ox tow

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
^What he said. Why not just use foam?
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Consider rigid insulation such as SM or similar. It is available in various thicknesses including 1 1/2".

Cut to fit the voids, and for any gaps or going around wiring etc, use a bit of expandable spray foam.

Super light weight and it has an R value of R5 per inch, so R7.5 for your application. That's double what you'll get from regular batt insulation.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
there used to be a insulation called arm a flex a dense foam. really did a good job. might not work on a slide a bit heavy.