Math question for any engineers out here
I’m in the process of building a parking pad in this spot. I ran a string line to measure my retaining wall height. If I have the line 3 feet above the ground and check the line for level, it is still...
Forum Discussion
When we owned and developed our camp I built dozens of retainer walls, of native stone, treated achitectural 5x6 treated timbers and yes, RR Ties. 100s of them
In our cool relatively dry climate # 2 creosote ties will last many, many years. .
For aesthetics, ease and engineering, treated 5x6x16' timbers are more pleasing to the eye, require less pinning ( joinery) which more than compensates for the cost of the new material.
RR Ties ruin saw chains, 1/2" installers drill bits used to drill for rebar. To drive rebar pins we rented a 40# electric jackhammer for which I made an adaptor, 1" x2"long steel shaft drilled 1/2" x 3/4" deep on both ends that I could place on the rebar and set the jackhammer driver point. In the end cost, use new treated timber. Sharpening the chains and bits will use up savings on ties. OK if you are handy like us, it was just a few minutes to resharpen in our shop. I could justify cheeper RR ties - barely.
Long ago years before we bought a camp the best design for a campsite is level side to side, 1' / 10' slope to rear of site. You must have drainage.
Any towable is more stable in a slight tongue low, As do not want to raise the front, but raising the rear 2-3" is just fine, Bs would never notice the 1", Cs are made high inthe rear on their truck chassis so 1"/ 10" high in the rear is level for them.
Ever noticed Cs nearly always have blocks under the front wheels to level?
RR Ties will work just fine for your project. Eventual cost, material, labor, is yours to judge.
In our cool relatively dry climate # 2 creosote ties will last many, many years. .
For aesthetics, ease and engineering, treated 5x6x16' timbers are more pleasing to the eye, require less pinning ( joinery) which more than compensates for the cost of the new material.
RR Ties ruin saw chains, 1/2" installers drill bits used to drill for rebar. To drive rebar pins we rented a 40# electric jackhammer for which I made an adaptor, 1" x2"long steel shaft drilled 1/2" x 3/4" deep on both ends that I could place on the rebar and set the jackhammer driver point. In the end cost, use new treated timber. Sharpening the chains and bits will use up savings on ties. OK if you are handy like us, it was just a few minutes to resharpen in our shop. I could justify cheeper RR ties - barely.
Long ago years before we bought a camp the best design for a campsite is level side to side, 1' / 10' slope to rear of site. You must have drainage.
Any towable is more stable in a slight tongue low, As do not want to raise the front, but raising the rear 2-3" is just fine, Bs would never notice the 1", Cs are made high inthe rear on their truck chassis so 1"/ 10" high in the rear is level for them.
Ever noticed Cs nearly always have blocks under the front wheels to level?
RR Ties will work just fine for your project. Eventual cost, material, labor, is yours to judge.
