Must-haves for Van or SUV as tow vehicle?
Thanks to all of your excellent advice, I have decided to find either a full size van or SUV to pull a travel trailer (I am thinking around 20’) for my cross country trip this summer, primarily becaus...
Forum Discussion
Tortiemctortiepants wrote:
It is the 5.4 liter V8, would that be adequate?
If you keep to a small (20ft) trailer as you mentioned, it should be fine.
I would go for the vans. Especially the small/medium size SUVs are likely to be overloaded.
Ratings to look at:
- Tow rating: This is mostly about horsepower and braking. Usually, this doesn't limit you.
- GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. This is the most the vehicle can weigh fully loaded. There is a separate number for truck and for trailer (CGVWR - Combined GVWR Truck+Trailer max which is typically less than the two added together). When looking at trailers, this is number makes a good starting assumption as you can't load up the trailer and take it to the scales to be sure. Most people are shocked how much weight they load up in the trailer.
- RAWR: Rear Axle Weight Rating. As you load most cargo in the back and the hitch weight goes mostly on the rear axle, this often maxes out before the GVWR.
- Payload: This is how much weight the truck can carry (not pull). It includes passengers, cargo and anything bolted on like running boards...along with the hitch and hitch weight. The trailer has a payload also but typically called CCC (cargo carrying capacity)
- Hitch Rating: IGNORE THE BROCHURE HITCH WEIGHT. This is how much of the trailer weight will rest on the hitch and thus counts against payload. The hitch weight should be around 12-15% of the fully loaded weight (NOT EMPTY BROCHURE WEIGHT). If you get a weight distributing hitch (I would recommend), your hitch rating is typically higher.
As far as engines...depends. The 4.5-5.5L range in Naturally Aspirated engines is OK for smaller trailers but particularly in mountains is marginal as you lose 3-4% of your power for every 1000ft of altitude, so you will have to drop down a gear or two and the RPM will be high (if in good shape, not an issue other than noise). Bigger V8/V10 engines will have more than enough HP for your proposed small trailer that even with the losses, it's fine. Alternatively are the newer Turbo engines. They will have smaller displacement (Ford Ecoboost is the big name but others have started to follow). By force feeding air into the engine, they can compensate for the thin air at altitude and much smaller engines can stay up with the old style V8 engines.
A 2007 is not a big concern. I might take it to a mechanic for a compression check and once over to make sure you aren't getting a lemon but otherwise, no big concern. FYI - We bought a 2008 a couple years ago with 170k on it. We did a 5000ft 6% climb 2 days ago and she performed like a champ. Just dropped down a gear and got in line with the semis, even passed a few.
