NEW FIFTH WHEEL PURCHASE AND HAVE QUESTIONS

We’ve had this 2018 Cardinal trailer for 1 1/2 years, have traveled over 12,000 miles and 200 nights. We bought and have used a Camco 50 Amp power defender for this trailer at a good discount and are pleased. It will disconnect with low and extremely high voltage, protect with pedestal wiring problems and 4,200 Jules surge.

I carry a selection of 30/50, 50/30 adapters. I use a 30 amp chord when travelling, much easier than dragging out that 50 amp lump for a quick overnight.

What gear can't you use?

If you are on a 30amp site, you can still use the extra 30amp cord, then connect the dogbone to that before going into the 50amp cord.

With a 50 amp trailer you are really getting 100 amps to your camper. You can probably run everything at once, including 2 a/c's, microwave and Splendide washer dryer at once.

With a 50 amp camper it gives you several options if 50 amps is not available, if you have the proper adapters, such as:
60 amps if there are 2 30 amps available, many state parks have this.
50 amps if there is a 30 amp and a regular 20 amp plug available.

I have used all of these options before and they all work. All you need is the proper adapters.

Surge protector either a Progessive Industries HW-50C (Hardwired) or the Southwire (Formerly TRC) equivlent WITH remote readout (both cases)
ON the PI set the "Power on delay" to LONG.

As others have said a good 50-30 Dogbone (Some call it 30-50 but I go with RV to Power outlet) I like the Camco Power pull type personally but that's because they are easier to unplug more than any advantage.. Also either a 50-15 or a 30-15 for battery maintenance at home.

What can you run on on 15/20, 30, 50

You have big ticket items they include
Air conditioner
Microwave
(Please do not use space heaters less you add HD wiring and outlets (12 ga aND 15/20 amp outlets with wire bent around a well tightened screw)
Washer/Dryer if you have one
Electric cooking appliances and coffee pots
Water heater

And if the batteries are low.. THE CONVERTER (Mine can suck a full 10-11 amps)

Small ticket items
The converter if batteries are full
TV, Radio. Computers. Fans (Plug in kind)

FRide at 350-400 is a "medium"

20 amp ONE big ticket if batteries are full (15 amp you might not be able to Air Condition)

30 amp ONE A/C and one other big ticket or two big ticket Hint follows

50 amp.. ALL YOU CAN EAT.

On 30 you may want to run an Absorption cooling unit on Gas (I do not)

Also I swapped my water heater element .. The OEM was 1500 watt at 120 volt (ABOUT 12.5 Amp) the new one is 1500 watt at 240 volt.. Since it is just a big resistor that makes it about 375 watts or 3.125 amps at 120 volt. A "Medium" like the fridge.

NOTE>. I had the tank out for other reasons when I did the swap (Swapped in a new tank at the same time)

The result is fewer breaker trips on 30 amp sites.

A good 50 amp EMS will work fine with either amperage: 30 or 50. I plug my adapter into the 50 amp EMS and then into the pedestal.

Thank you Alan, can that adapter plug into a surge protector or do I need another adapter to plug into that? Or do i need to buy a 30 amp surge protector instead of a 50 amp one? I am hearing alot of good things about the progressive industries one.

You will need a good 30A-to-50A "dogbone" to plug your new trailer into a 30A campground outlet. When running 30A you need to be aware of how much electricity you're using. Most newer units have the capability of monitoring your usage, and they will shed the loads as necessary to keep you under the 30A, but you can help out by not running multiple large loads simultaneously. For instance: you can run one AC unit and the microwave at the same time, but don't add in a washer/dryer, or hair dryer, or space heater.