New to boat trailers … need some help

[Bigimac]

Apologies in advance for all the questions … hope this the correct forum … been reading everything about boat trailers & need some expert advice.

Got a new Pontoon last week - weighs in (CAT Scale) at 5,760 with a near empty 50 gal gas tank; so I'm thinking 6,200 is a good loaded baseline weight.

I am towing throughout the inter mountain west, up & down 6-8% grades; 60% interstate, 40% state 2-lane highways. I tow at 60 mph. My 2015 Chevy 3500HD crew cab 4x4 gasser is pulling truck, camper, & boat just fine at a 16,800 GCVW; albeit at 8.1 mpg ;).

The trailer from the dealer is a tritoon 27' and configured with:
- dual axles rated 7000# (3500# each axle)
- aluminum wheels (can't find a rating stamp)
- ST205 14 "C" load tires (2-ply rated 1,317#)
- surge braking
- 7" drum brakes on one axle ... sigh ...
- single leaf springs on each wheel with the equalizer thingy

Need some advice:
1) axles at 7000# seems sufficient
2) Planning on changing wheels to 2200# rated mag wheels; should I consider larger than 14"?
3) The trailer guys can put 4-ply "C" load rated at 1980 lbs & tell me this is good enough; should I listen to them?
4) I want to use the built-in brake controller & ABS safety features of the truck ... & really don't like surge anyway, so, it's electric versus EOH; trailer guys say electric is just fine; champion trailer & west marine web sites seem to lean to EOH; suggestions?
5) The tow truck has 14" brakes and adding 7" brakes to the second trailer axle "seems" to be enough; do I need to consider moving to 10" brakes?
6) Drum versus disc - a bit of a toss up on web sites, with disc being a bit more popular for the weight & maintenance considerations; suggestions?
7) Last weekend on a "break in" 500 mile trip, the boat really bounced around (no sway though) on the less smooth 2-lane roads. Do I need to add a spring (or two) to each wheel?

Thanks some more for any advice or suggestions - I really do want to get this done safely & as right as possible - cheers!

p.s. I did flip the hitch ball so the trailer now is way more level than in this picture …

[bob213]

They sell drum brakes that don't need a lock out for backing. That is probably what he has. Look on etrailer and you will see them. Switching from drum to disk on surge usually requires a different actuator.

Free backing plates

[Bionic_Man]

^^^If you aren't getting the brakes to activate when you are backing up, and you do not have that solenoid, and are not using a manual reverse lock out switch on the trailer, you should check to make sure that the brakes on your trailer are functioning. I don't know how you could back up with surge brakes without them activating if you don't have the manual lock out or solenoid.

[rowekmr]

Really nice looking boat!

I've been boat longer than I have been camping. I have looked for a campground that also had boats so I could combine both my pasttimes 🙂

As far as surge brakes not working in reverse my first new trailer (3 axle 10K) had a solenoid that had wires that were triggered by the reverse lights on my TV to release the brake pressure so I could back up. IIRC it had brakes on 2 axles don't recall whether they were disc or drums but remember than (1996) one of those weren't recommended for repeated water exposure. My buddies 2006 double axle trailer with surge didn't have the reverse lock out so it was difficult backing his up on slight inclines or soft ground. I would have to go forward then back several times to get it back. My current older (1993) 2 axle trailer with drums on both axles doesn't have the reverse lock out but haven't had the brakes engage in reverse yet in about 8 years.

My current trailer is about maxed out axle and tongue weight wise and it has a slight bounce on the road going over irregularities but it seems to help the suspension by smoothing out the bumps and dips.

[philh]

Disconnect trailer lights (if incandescent) just before you drop the boat in the water.

When pulling the boat out of the water... stop for just a minute or two once the trailer clears the water and let the water run off. Helps to keep the entire ramp from getting wet.

[transamz9]

Bigimac wrote:
Brand new boat & engine so breaking in things - mechanic quoted 6400 as red line - 44 was at 6400 rpm & not wot - boat came with a 17" & dealer rigged it out with 15"

Powell is about 3500' lower & I consider swapping out but decided to keep it rigged as is & see what happens. I've heard rule of thumb is 3-4% HP loss per 1,000', but the mercury master mechanic guy I use says supercharged verado pro only looses 1% per/k' … we'll see …

About the only concern with the engine is making sure I remember to turn it off with people in the water … the thing is soooo bloody quiet - we have to turn the tunes down when cruising at 4200 rpm to talk!

That is some great numbers. I assume that the prop has cup in it according to your numbers. You were running about 16% slip which is great for that size and weight with 7 people on board. If it don't have cup then you are around 10% which is bass boat numbers. Did you ever try to go WOT? You may have been there and just didn't know it? I'm at 12% with my bass boat Full load and two people which is considered a barge. A lot of speed hulls are down in the 5% range when running light.

Back to your trailer question. I never feel a jerk to release the brakes on my trailer unless I just pull a hole shot at a light. There is a shock absorber on mine that makes it release smoothly.

Just for the record, I run passenger tires on my trailer. The ride is a 100 % improvement over my original trailer tires. I put about 10,000 miles a year on my boat trailer also. I am at about 67% of the tires capacity on the sidewall.

[trail-explorer]

mowermech wrote:
Brakes on one axle only?
Your trailer is not legal in Montana! (MCA 61-9-304)

Not legal in Washington either.

Not sure why some trailer companies cheap out and put axle only on one trailer - I guess they are doing it because that's all that's required in the home state, and they assume the trailer will never leave that state.

If 15" wheel and tire combo will fit, I'd go that route as there's more tire choices available.

[Bionic_Man]

Not sure what your dealer means by redline. WOT is the number I would be more concerned about, and that should be listed on a plate on the motor itself.

Supercharged engines shouldn't lose much, if any, HP at elevation, so you will be good there.

If you are able to run max RPM at WOT at elevation, you will be way under propped when you go down 3500'. Both 15" and 17" sound low pitch for that much engine, but I have limited experience with outboards. My 260 HP sterndrive ran a 19" prop. My 300 HP sterndrive ran a 24" prop. and my 60 HP outboard Lund is running (I think) a 12", so 15" seems low for your set up.

Boats sure are fun! I am spending more time on the water than I am camping lately. This weekend will be taking the 5er and boat out,, but that is only the 4th time we have done that this year. Most of our time is spent at Powell with the houseboat.

[Bigimac]

Brand new boat & engine so breaking in things - mechanic quoted 6400 as red line - 44 was at 6400 rpm & not wot - boat came with a 17" & dealer rigged it out with 15"

Powell is about 3500' lower & I consider swapping out but decided to keep it rigged as is & see what happens. I've heard rule of thumb is 3-4% HP loss per 1,000', but the mercury master mechanic guy I use says supercharged verado pro only looses 1% per/k' … we'll see …

About the only concern with the engine is making sure I remember to turn it off with people in the water … the thing is soooo bloody quiet - we have to turn the tunes down when cruising at 4200 rpm to talk!

[Bionic_Man]

Well, that 44 mph is slightly better than what I can get with 450 HP in my boat. 🙂

Are you able to reach max RPM at wot? Will you reprop between gorge and Powell?

I never changed in my stern drive but I do with my outboard fishing boat. That is quite a swing in elevation.

[Bigimac]

250 verado pro - we were tuning for top speed last weekend with 7-people & 3-big dogs. got this:

[Bionic_Man]

Bigimac wrote:
Very nice rig bionic guy - we're to Powell in Oct after the crowds thin out. Flaming Gorge last week was spectacular!

Thanks. We really like it.

We have already done Powell 4 times this year. Our next trip is mid/late September. Might try once more in November with the fishing boat.

Did Flaming Gorge a few years back. It is about the same distance for us as Powell, and in my mind, can't compete for water sports. Great fishing lake though. I have seen some monster lakers come out of there.

That tri-toon should be fantastic for Powell. What size Merc is that hanging off the back?

[Bigimac]

Very nice rig bionic guy - we're to Powell in Oct after the crowds thin out. Flaming Gorge last week was spectacular!

[Bigimac]

THX! all - so far, it looks like I'll:

- keep 14" size & upgrade to mag wheels & then tires to "d" rated;
- leave brakes at 7" & add to second axle;
- spend the $$$'s change out drum for disc;
- leaf (sic) the springs alone; and
- have the trailer folks look at the trailer rigging for level, tongue length (no extension of WD currently on this); and tongue weight.

The "bouncing around" is the trailer on rough roads, not the boat - that's strapped down ok.

I'm still contemplating surge, electric, or EOH - I don't like surge for the constant: "bump" to disengage; over heating worries when downhill on long (2-3 mile) 6-8% grades; and loss of TV safety brake control & ABS stuff. "Marine grade" brake components are available, so submersion isn't an issue … so far.

Thx again everyone, you're input is enormously helpful.

[Bionic_Man]

If you have room for 15" rims, I would definitely go that way. Opens up much more tire options.

Even the "C" rated ST tires I have looked at are like 1860 pounds. I am surprised yours are rated that low.

I looked at changing over to electric brakes on my boat trailer (decided against it), and I was under the impression that the only option was drum. Am I wrong?

My last boat was a 21' Crownline sterndrive. Weiged about 5200 pounds. Had it for 10 years, and towed it all over the Western US. New boat is a 23' Malibu V-Drive. 6500 pounds, I have already towed it probably 7 - 8000 miles (lots of trips to Powell).

I would guess that the bounce you are talking about has more to do with the long tongue on that trailer. Are you using a hitch extension/long shanked draw bar, or is that all trailer? Either way, I don't really think that adding a spring is going to significantly change the ride. If it is really bad, shorten the tongue of the trailer, or look into a receiver draw bar that has an air bag built into it.

The 14" tires with disc surge brakes on both axles has treated me well. LIke I said, I would upgrade to 15" wheels & tires if I was intereted in spending $ on the trailer.

Here is my Malibu with my secondary tow vehicle.