Whatever it takes to have your trailer level at its highest pointing...I prefer pointing slightly down
That the TV's front axle is re-loaded as per your glove box manual. Used to be even drop front and back, but today's TVs has many different architectures (IFS, Live Axle, and bump stops that touch 100% of the time, etc)
Most likely you will need to readjust the shank...if it has adjustment holes. Some times flipping it if it was sticking up
That is the goal....all of the adjustment recommendations are just the dials/knobs/etc to get to that goal of a level trailer, or pointing slightly down after it is dialed.
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...