Non-binding Tow Bar

I got rid of my Blue Ox Aventa LX just because it would bind so bad. Bought the non binding Roadmaster Blackhawk 2 All Terrain. It sure makes life easier when unhooking (did this in June of this year).

It all depends on how I'm parked when I unhook but I've never had my Blue-Ox towbar bind so bad I couldn't free it where I set. It swivels side to side (it could make a complete rollover if that was possible) as well as the arms independently moving up, down and sideways. If the arms won't release with a push on the release leveler by hand, I'll raise my foot and give it a stomp which has always worked for me. That only happens when the towed and the MH aren't lined up. Whether they're level or not is another problem for me. I have to take the pins out of the towbar before I can rock my towed to engage the driveshaft disconnect to drive it. If the towed is higher, no problem, it will try to move forward enough to loosen the pins but if the towed is lower and pulling on the arms, I can't do anything but set the parking brake and allow the motorhome to come back an inch or so. I only need to move the towed a few inches to engage the driveshaft.

Like I said, I've never seen it as a problem I couldn't easily overcome. In the old days when I had fixed arms on a cheaper towbar, I made sure to connect and disconnect on level ground to avoid problems. I'll be keeping my 20+ year old Blue-Ox.

If you get a new towbar I suggest getting one at a Rally. When I was at Perry FMCA Rally the dealers were marking them down pricewise. Even giving you $100 for the old one.....

I had the Blue Ox Aventa and never had a problem after I learned to take the pressure off before trying to pull the pins out. Usually by backing up the motorhome a tad or moving the car a tad.

We've been very pleased with the performance of our non-binding ReadyBrute Elite combined tow bar and brake system. They also have a version without the brake system.

NSA ALUMINUM TOW BARS

Thanks for the info!

I just upgraded to the Roadmaster Nighthawk All Terrain with LED light strips.. Best thing I ever did

Regardless of manufacturer claims there are always some conditions that will cause a tow bar to bind. Those conditions might include attempting to disconnect when the toad is at an extreme angle to the motorhome, the toad significantly higher or lower than the motorhome, or at an extreme side to side angle from the motorhome.

That being said the non binding bars do a much better job than those that don't have that feature. The non binding feature is simply a difference in the angle that the locking caams lock into the extension rods. The non binding ones have a sloped angle on the cam and a taperd slot in the bars. The standard versions have a more square cut cam and square cut slot in the bars.

Our first tow bar was a Roadmater Sterling. It was not a non binding design, but if the toad was relatively in line with the motorhome it would work fine. It was destroyed in an accident and replaced with a Roadmaster Sterling All Terrain, which is a non binding tow bar. This one is slightly more forgiving in that the toad doesn't have to be nearly as well aligned to the motorhome for it to work properly. We used the previous bar for 110,000 miles with no problems. We have about 35,000 miles on the new one, again with no problems.

just purchased 98 tj for toad ,driving 24 ft class c mb sprinter, need tow bar, base plate for jeep,suplimental brake system .From my research im thinking of blue ox tow bar, stay and play brakeing,blue ox base plate. Anyone currently useing these and if so your thoughts?