ProPride and lifted 3500
Hi all, We just applied for financing on a 2021 Fuel F-287. Assuming the loan gets approved, we should be picking the unit up on the 18th. I have a 2020 Denali 3500 SRW that I put a 4" suspensio...
Forum Discussion
Glad you are asking and taking in the advice and note that on these freebie forums...the advice is worth the price paid and that advisors have zero skin in your game.
Agree with most of BackOfThePack's info. As it makes sense to me and has many aspects of the laws of physics. Though there are more in play that many don't care to even think about.
On that, all things engineered/designed/etc are NOT for the good days out there when a mid-sized half ton can tow a stripper Space Shuttle...or a VW compact can tow a 747...but...for that day Mr Murphy crosses either your path or someone else's path to bring them into your path. So either you have the right stuff & dialed in spot on. As there won't be time to go back to the store or reset up.
The designers can NOT design for every potential out there and CYA themselves via specifications and 'fine print', which has too many not understand what that all means. Ditto 'recommend' that is in all aspects of any manual.
Good that you can and will test your setup out in an open gravel area and what FUN that will be. Not many are willing, nor able to do that. ON that, also know that things happen sooner/quicker/etc at higher speeds.
Since lifted and higher CG, hope your track was also increased significantly with aftermarket wheel offset. That lessens the tip over point or angle. Hope your lift system has double shocks and increased torsional rate anti-lean bars. Higher durometer anti-lean bars as noted by BackOfThePack is also a good idea if you haven't already (Delrin would be my choice and suggest staying away from nylon types).
Some lift kits has blocks that are angled to point the diff U-Joint upwards. Bad and will wear out that U-Joint quickly. Both output shaft and diff pinion shaft center lines MUST be parallel no matter what changes to the Z height the lift introduces. Stick with square blocks.
Fun stuff and enjoy your setup !
Agree with most of BackOfThePack's info. As it makes sense to me and has many aspects of the laws of physics. Though there are more in play that many don't care to even think about.
On that, all things engineered/designed/etc are NOT for the good days out there when a mid-sized half ton can tow a stripper Space Shuttle...or a VW compact can tow a 747...but...for that day Mr Murphy crosses either your path or someone else's path to bring them into your path. So either you have the right stuff & dialed in spot on. As there won't be time to go back to the store or reset up.
The designers can NOT design for every potential out there and CYA themselves via specifications and 'fine print', which has too many not understand what that all means. Ditto 'recommend' that is in all aspects of any manual.
Good that you can and will test your setup out in an open gravel area and what FUN that will be. Not many are willing, nor able to do that. ON that, also know that things happen sooner/quicker/etc at higher speeds.
Since lifted and higher CG, hope your track was also increased significantly with aftermarket wheel offset. That lessens the tip over point or angle. Hope your lift system has double shocks and increased torsional rate anti-lean bars. Higher durometer anti-lean bars as noted by BackOfThePack is also a good idea if you haven't already (Delrin would be my choice and suggest staying away from nylon types).
Some lift kits has blocks that are angled to point the diff U-Joint upwards. Bad and will wear out that U-Joint quickly. Both output shaft and diff pinion shaft center lines MUST be parallel no matter what changes to the Z height the lift introduces. Stick with square blocks.
Fun stuff and enjoy your setup !
