rv fridge

[machunt]

If one was to replace the fridge in there current rv with a residential fridge, what would have to be done to be able to cool it down before leaving on a trip? Generator, inverter?

[goducks10]

If you don't boondock then why not go 12V fridge? I have one and I wired it directly to the batteries with an inline fuse. No inverter needed. More storage than a typical absorption fridge. Cools down faster as well.
2x100 solar panels on the roof and it will keep the batteries charged when cooling down before a trip and while on route.
Most newer 12V fridges are plug n play with the OEM absorption fridges from Norcold and Dometic.

Option 2 would be 200w solar, 1000W inverter and a res fridge. Just make sure the res fridge meets the space requirements.

The biggest battery draw is in the initial cool down. Once cool the fridge doesn't draw down the battery as bad.

2 batteries would be the minimum for either fridge.

Not sure what your plan is for cooling the fridge and taking off on your trip.
If your only needing one night for cool down the just 2 batteries would work, and then on your travels the truck will help maintain the batteries till you get to your 120V hookup.

If you're looking at needing several days of cool down then you'll need to supplement the batteries with some solar.

[larry_cad]

machunt wrote:
I think we went way off topic. Only thing i was asking was best way to run a residential fridge while in storage before heading out on a trip, and keep it running while on the road. We dont boondock. We have 2011 keystone outback sydney 5th wheel

In storage there is only one good option for any fridge, and that is to plug it in, unless you have a generator that can run all the time.

On the road, you have several options as have been described in this forum. Keeping any fridge running in storage, without 120v source, just won't work. Any battery configuration will run down eventually.

[machunt]

I think we went way off topic. Only thing i was asking was best way to run a residential fridge while in storage before heading out on a trip, and keep it running while on the road. We dont boondock. We have 2011 keystone outback sydney 5th wheel

[valhalla360]

dieseltruckdriver wrote:
and give more fridge space than the same size cutout absorption fridge.

Yes, our current rig came with a 12v and for the same size door, it probably has 50% more interior volume.

[valhalla360]

afidel wrote:
The much bigger deal than the inefficiency it's that the inverter draws a load 24x7 which eats quite a few watt-hours. For inverters rated at say 2kw this actually ends up eating more Wh than their inefficiency. What some folks do is have a relatively small inverter that is just big enough to handle the motor surge of the fridge and then have a second inverter for running loads like the microwave or coffee pot which they can turn off when not in use.

Semantics again...I was lumping that in with the inefficiency. I would presume if you get a monster 2000-3000w inverter, it's on for other purposes.

If you are just running the fridge, something around 400w will likely do the trick.

[AllegroD]

machunt,

What RV do you have? This is critical to having a targeted discussion with you.

Your issue should not be what to do while in storage. You can turn off the 12v and the inverter, so no additional draw on the batts. You can also unplug an RR fridge and like an RV fridge, leave the door open.

[JRscooby]

dedmiston wrote:

JRscooby wrote:
I would question your definition of "a lot of power". My absorption fridge works just fine on the excess power generated by the alternator. Compressor fridge is known to use less power.

I’m thinking of the dozens of threads I’ve seen here from people frustrated about the fact that their residential fridge drains their batteries during the day (if, and that’s a big if, they even have an inverter and can run it while they drive) and they wish their dealer had explained to them that they don’t have enough power to drive from Point A to Point B and that they can’t boondock without running their gen all night. It’s enough firsthand accounts of frustration to indicate that the residential fridges draw more power than most people are equipped with, at least not until they invest in a lot of upgrades.

I really don't have a dog in this fight. I can hook up to my trailer, plug in the light cord, and turn on the fridge, after the trailer has been setting long enough that inside the fridge is average summer temp. Drive a couple of hours, with only power from the alternator going to fridge. (Not any control circuit, but to the heating element) Couple of hours later, I can set up camper, remove bag of cool charcoal, put in food. Few minutes after I close the door, the inside temp reads below 40.
Now I know inverter takes power even when nothing plugged in is drawing power. And I know the bigger the inverter, the more power it takes under no load. And I know most install a inverter large enough to carry most of the camper loads. I wonder if the residential fridge/inverter would work longer on battery if used a inverter just big enough for fridge? Leave the big one off when not needed.

[Veebyes]

Just because you take the power away from it the fridge is not going hot in the next half hour. It is no different from losing power in a storm. You are good for hours.

If you don't have one already, get an inverter large enough to comfortably handle the fridge. Of course that inverter is of little use if you don't you don't have the battery bank to support it. The TV will charge, or attempt to charge, the trailer while going down the road. The weak link there is the distance from alternator to trailer battery bank & the thickness of the wires. VD, voltage drop. Make sure that the inverter is not feeding anything else in the trailer to get longest life out of the battery bank as you roll down the road.

[Grit_dog]

machunt wrote:
i agree ,,,maybe i wasnt clear. plugging in at home is not a option. never mind why. I know i could buy a genny and plug it in at the storage lot. but my concern is while traveling what can i do to keep fridge cold?

Have a c rap load of power reserve and a decent inverter, or realize the clear benefits of a RV fridge that can run off of 2 or 3 power sources. Hard to beat LP regardless of some folks apparent distaste for it.

[dieseltruckdriv]

I was going to mention that the easier choice really should be a 12 volt compressor fridge also.

I noticed going to a couple small rv shows that there were very few residential fridges offered this year, there were almost all 12 volt compressor fridges. I chatted with a factory rep about that and he said they are much easier to install, do a better job cooling, and give more fridge space than the same size cutout absorption fridge.

[wa8yxm]

machunt wrote:
If one was to replace the fridge in there current rv with a residential fridge, what would have to be done to be able to cool it down before leaving on a trip? Generator, inverter?

Inverter will drain your batteries
Shore power or generator would be my first/second choice

NOTE: They cool fairly quickly so load Turn and go. RV fridges take much longer to pre-cool but a residential will cool fairly fast.

Consider this: both Dometic and NoCold at one time made what I call "Danfoss" class all electric 12/120 volt Fridges.. They need a bit of pre-cooling as well as the Gas/Electric types do. but.. they draw 30=50 Watts door closed. Seems strange to have to say Door closed because the interior light on a residential type does not draw enough power to make a significant difference.
But 20 watts (about an inside light) is a major amount when the cooling unit only draws 40 watts. Consider one of these high effienc y all Electric units if you can. they are expensive. but these days so are residential.

I have a small chest freezer (my 2nd) of this class

Danfoss is ONE of the companies that makes the compressors.. I use their name to id the class cause it's the only one I remember.

Here is an example of what I am typing about:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/norcold--de-0061-ac-dc-refrigerator-freezer--5388699?gclid=Cj0KCQiAybaRBhDtARIsAIEG3knzREuy-3u8LVSLraERvfUSRLEcaotSxPHeUL5cqSWZ2ew23YWDrCEaAlUwEALw_wcB

[afidel]

valhalla360 wrote:
Dedmiston is pretty much correct, though you could argue some of the semantics.

A traditional RV absorption fridge is still a great option for boondocking. It's needs a tiny amount of 12v DC power to run the control board and a tank of propane is good for weeks of operation. Downside is they are slow to cool the interior. If you are on shore power, there is an electric heating element that replaces the heat from the propane flame. Some even have a 12v heating element but that's pretty inefficient.

Then you have 12v DC fridges. These can run directly off battery power and because they were designed for low power consumption are probably the best option for running off electricity without shorepower. They still use far more power than the control board on an absorption fridge but a decent battery bank and/or connection via the umbilical cable to the trucks alternator output is typically plenty to keep then going. If you want to spend multiple days off grid, you will need a means of generating power before your battery bank dies (most commonly solar or generator) but no need for an inverter.

Then you have residential 120v AC fridges. Newer ones are generally not quite as good as 12v fridges in terms of efficiency but not horrible. A downside is you need an inverter to convert the 12v DC to 120v AC. That adds, cost, complication and you will likely lose some power to the conversion.

If you are always on shore power when parked, a residential fridge is a fine option. They will hold cold during driving days just fine.
If you will boondock a lot, absorption is still the ideal but if you put in a good solar system with an upsized battery bank, 12v is very much viable.

Many newer RV's (even entry level) are switching to 12v.

The much bigger deal than the inefficiency it's that the inverter draws a load 24x7 which eats quite a few watt-hours. For inverters rated at say 2kw this actually ends up eating more Wh than their inefficiency. What some folks do is have a relatively small inverter that is just big enough to handle the motor surge of the fridge and then have a second inverter for running loads like the microwave or coffee pot which they can turn off when not in use.

[wowens79]

I’ve got a Resi fridge with 2 GC2 batteries, and an inverter.
I go to the storage place, turn on the inverter, hookup and drive the 15-20 to the house, and you can tell it is cooling at that point. Then add the cold stuff from the home fridge, and all is good. It cools down really quickly.
I’ve driven 10 hours with the inverter running, and it still had power. My next rv, I’ll make sure it has a resi fridge also.
I do live in the southeast, so there is not really any boondocking.

[jdc1]

Start here

https://camperfront.com/how-long-will-an-rv-residential-fridge-run-on-battery/