I had previously been looking at the GoPower Solar Extreme "Kit" and received some very good feedback from all you folks here in the forums. It is due to that feedback that I have decided to piece my system together based on requirements and reviews.Here is the system I have designed (below). Please let me know if there is anything that would/should cause me to worry or choose another component brand/model.I will be wiring the panels as two parallel strings, 4 each in a series. I also will be putting in a DC combiner/breaker panel instead of fuses with appropriate gauge cabling between all components.Solar Panels - 8 each (I have the room)WindyNation 100W 100 Watt 12V Bendable Flexible Thin Lightweight Solar PanelSolar ControllerMorningstar TS-MPPT-60 Tristar Mppt 60 AmpSolar Controller Remote DisplayMorningstar, TriStar Remote Digital Meter (for TS-MPPT) with 100' cable, TS-RM-2Solar Battery Temp SensorMorningstar Remote Temperature Sensor RTSInverterAIMS Power PICOGLF30W12V120VR 3000 Watt 12V Pure Sine Inverter ChargerInverter Remote Switch and MonitorAIMS Power REMOTELF Remote Switch with LCD Monitoring ScreenInverter Battery Temp SensorAIMS Power PICGLFBATS Battery Temperature Sensor (for Power Inverter Chargers)Your feedback is appreciated.

What battery configuration? As to the inverter, 12v @ 3000w (should you ever need that much) is a whopping lot of amps.

Less installation cost, more watts, and less overall cost by going to 4 nominal 24V modules if you can fit them. BTW, what is the mounting schedule of those bendable panels?I don't think I'd buy an inverter/charger because I'd be afraid of losing 1/2 along the way. It may fit your needs better, however.I have a Morningstar MPPT controller, the smallest one they make, and it has programmability beyond what you get elsewhere. I think they make good controllers.

Panels say they can connect in series... I would check that they have bypass diodes. All I see is blocking diodes. Maybe it serves as both somehow. Bypass diodes allow current to bypass a shaded panel and avoid damage.Under 6 amps and 12 amps parallel I would just use some parallel MC4 connectors and #10 MC4 cable to run down to the controller. Skip the box. No fuse needed but I recommend a switch rated DC 90+ volts to disconnect power for service. DC is a different rated switch than AC at these levels.How are you mounting the panels? Adhesive? Two sided tape? screws in the mounting holes?Larger 24v panels are about half the price per watt. Although large size and weight could be an issue.Mounted flat on the roof you need to have extra shade clearance from vents, A/C, antenna etc. compared to a framed panel that is elevated several inches.800 watts into the 60 amp controller is fine.I skipped the controller remote meter. Have not missed it. Can add later if you need to.3000w does seem big. 2000 watts will run anything you would plug into a normal outlet. OK to have reserve power too. If you plan to run over 2000 watts I recommend six+ batteries.I am sure the inverter/charger is fine. I personally prefer separate components that would include separate inverter, transfer switch, and converter for charging. Inverter/charger does make whole house installation easier. Or are you thinking to break out inverter only circuits with a subpanel?Just some random thoughts for discussion.Looks like it will be a good system.

Hi,Do you have prices on the aims? I would consider stand alone products rather than inverter/chargers

pianotuna wrote: Do you have prices on the aims? I would consider stand alone products rather than inverter/chargersFollow the Amazon links for price and limited descriptions. I like the interver/charger combo as it has a nice pc interface to be able to monitor both aspects.2oldman wrote: What battery configuration? Right now I have 4 Trojan t105 in series/parallel for 12 vdc - 450 AH. I probably will be adding two more once the system is in to bring it up to 675 AH.westend wrote:Less installation cost, more watts, and less overall cost by going to 4 nominal 24V modules if you can fit them.My thought on the panels was to be able to lose one panel to a failure and only lose 100 watts. I can jump the wire over the top of it in this case. It's a balancing act I know. More panels, more failure modes too.time2roll wrote:Panels say they can connect in series... I would check that they have bypass diodes. All I see is blocking diodes.....I will check on the diodes, but if memory serves me correctly, the diodes just act as one way valves for current. Will block one way, but flow the other. Like I said, I will check. As for mounting the panels, I was going to go with a single strip of double back surface mount adhesive down the middle of each panel and Dicor tape for the edges. No bolts in the eyes. Yeah, the meter is more of a gadget, but it does have the on/off switch on it too.3000 watts is probably overkill and I'll probably pull more then 2000 only a few times a year. But, the rig has three TV's and the wife does like her hair tools. I like my drip coffee and the Bose sound system with the subwoofer. I guess the Tim Taylor - "More Power" in me is poking through.Thanks for the feedback so far!

Solar Expert Component Review Requested | Good Sam Community

pianotuna
Nomad III
Jan 26, 2017
Hi WackAway,

Because there are issues with my particular setup on Magnum. I can't plug into a GFCI 15 amp shore power outlet with out it tripping off.

I did also have my Magnum catch on fire last summer. They, to give them credit, did stand up to the plate and replaced it under warranty.

I love the hybrid feature.

I'd also move to a 48 volt battery bank if I were starting over.

WackAway wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

The price of Victron and Outback are the same or higher than the Magnum. I have a Magnum and would replace it with Victron.

Why is that?
Lwiddis
Explorer II
Jan 25, 2017
"anywhere near 3k of inverting over a minute or so, be sure to check for heat at the batteries or cabling"

Excellent point, 2oldman.
time2roll
Nomad
Jan 25, 2017
I have and recommend GoPower inverters. Xantrex Prosine 1800 gave up too easy.

Since you are going 3000 watts and typically using less than 2000 I would think the AIMS should hold up fine.
WackAway
Explorer
Jan 25, 2017
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

The price of Victron and Outback are the same or higher than the Magnum. I have a Magnum and would replace it with Victron.

Why is that?
pianotuna
Nomad III
Jan 24, 2017
Hi,

The price of Victron and Outback are the same or higher than the Magnum. I have a Magnum and would replace it with Victron.

WackAway wrote:
allen8106 wrote:
I like everything but the Aims stuff. I recommend Magnum.

Wow, the price of those reflect they are really proud of their inverters.
Lwiddis
Explorer II
Jan 24, 2017
Why bendable WN 100 watt panels at $158 when rigid WN 100 watt panels are $118? Cooler too since they are mounted a couple of inches above the roof.
WackAway
Explorer
Jan 24, 2017
allen8106 wrote:
I like everything but the Aims stuff. I recommend Magnum.

Wow, the price of those reflect they are really proud of their inverters.
2oldman
Explorer II
Jan 23, 2017
If you're going to do anywhere near 3k of inverting over a minute or so, be sure to check for heat at the batteries or cabling. At 12v that pulls a lot of amps which contributes to heating.

A higher voltage system may be something to consider, although it's not too common as yet.
allen8106
Explorer
Jan 23, 2017
I like everything but the Aims stuff. I recommend Magnum.
2oldman
Explorer II
Jan 23, 2017
Darryl&Rita wrote:
Also not a fan of the glued down bendable panels. Way too expensive on a per watt basis, too fragile for extended use. The covering tends to haze, cutting production further. Heat also cuts production, so stuck to the roof yields a hotter panel than one elevated above it.
Yes. And you can't tilt.

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