The general design of most couplers is to have the FRONT portion of the
coupler 'dome' go down past the equator to create an interference
so that the ball will NOT come out of the coupler dome
The rear/back portion of the coupler dome does *NOT* go down past
the equator and the interference is the latch assembly (pawl)
Equator...the largest dia portion of the ball...there is a flat
spot on most all tow balls and is to allow the ball to move rearwards
and drop out of the coupler dome
Normal method of getting the ball out of the coupler dome is to first
let the latch pawl out of the way via it's lever
BACK UP the TV to move the ball rear words. Have had to block the
trailer tires, back up to have that force on the ball/coupler (while
in park & parking brake on) and then wack/jump/etc on the coupler
to hear it pop out...some times with a thud...
Then remove the weight...to a negative weight with the tongue jack
Normally, the ball will drop out
If stuck, then either the ball is still in the front portion of
the coupler dome...or the latch pawl is NOT getting out of the way
Either the latch is not adjusted well and/or it is worn/stuck
Here are some side view cross sections of some of the latch designs
to help you see where yours might be hanging up
couplerlatch latchpawl
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...