Suitable Dinghys for Class 2 Hitch

Don't ignore the hitch rating however, are you sure it is a class II? Most hitches on motorhomes are at least class III.

Would you consider towing flat? The number of cars that weigh less than 3500 lbs is pretty extensive and it is easier than a tow dolly. If you have to use a dolly, almost any small, front wheel drive car will work. You got your pick of virtually any of the subcompact cars built today.

luvlabs wrote:
Don't ignore the hitch rating however, are you sure it is a class II? Most hitches on motorhomes are at least class III.

Would you consider towing flat? The number of cars that weigh less than 3500 lbs is pretty extensive and it is easier than a tow dolly. If you have to use a dolly, almost any small, front wheel drive car will work. You got your pick of virtually any of the subcompact cars built today.

As far as I know a class 2 is rated for 3500 lbs max. If that is correct then I am sure I have a Class 2 hitch. The 3500 max is clearly stamped on the hitch by Winnebago.

I have the P30 Chassis. As far as I know a class 2 is about max for that Chassis.

As for towing Flat....I dont think I can do that with a Front wheel drive.

Are there many on this forum that tow dinghys with a P30?I would be interested to know.

Don't ignore the hitch rating however... lots of gas class A and C units have class 2 hitches. First make sure your unit can tow 3500#. Find the stickers with GCVWR, GVWR, GFAWR, GRAWR.

GCVWR is what the RV plus the tow can weigh.
GVWR is what the RV can weigh (with everything you carry in the RV).

Subtract GVWR from GCVWR.

If this number is greater than 3500# then you can pull 3500# if you do not exceed GCVWR.
If this number is less than 3500# then the result is all that you can tow.

Once your sure you can pull 3500# then it becomes total dolly weight plus car can/should be 3500# or less.

Do not use magic math to make it work. Do not exceed ANY or these ratings for both legal and safety reasons.

jim

"Do not use magic math to make it work":B

I hear ya..........Thanks

My Hyundai comes in at 2700lbs. It's a manual so I tow it 4-down but an automatic would need a dolly.

Good Luck,
Eric

Just saw an article on towing a Smart car 4-down. FMCA newsletter, i believe.

Thanks again folks. I can understand how shear stress on the tow system by way of Tongue Weight can affect the Towing Capacity and stress on the system but when towing either 4 down or on a Dolly
it becomes a mystery why a straight pull (tension only) can affect anything on the tow vehicle frame wise other than making the Engine and running gear work a little harder.

Or am I missing something? Like I mean are there stresses I am unaware of that make the weld at the extension the weakest link in the chain so to speak?