We went to the RV Show here locally this weekend and just started the buying process for a new camper and wanted to double check a couple things. Truck Specs from GMC:2011 Yukon Denali (short one not XL) AWD TWR: Trailer Weight Ball: 8100lbsGCWR: 14,000Curb Weight: 6,000lbs so that gives us 8,000lbs for the camper, the family and all of our stuff.Ball Weight: Class IV 10-15% trailer; 1200lbs maxThe truck does have the optional factory brake controllerLike all Denali's it has the rear air shocks with load leveling.Trailer Specs from Jayco: (I didn't take a photo of the dataplate so this is an estimate from the website so ballpark numbers not taking into account options)2017 Jayco Jay Feather 25BH UVW: 5265lbsDry Hitch: 640lbsGVWR: 6750lbsSo from a towing capacity we should be staying away from the max capacities well enough to be good. We live and will be camping mainly in MN and WI mostly within 150 miles so only mild hills no mountains or high altitude stuff planned. We don't get crazy winds here normally. With my current camper (22' Dutchman) we have been using a Draw-Tight WD hitch rated for 12,000lbs with the 1200 spring bars that support up to 1200lbs Tongue Weight. This is the chain style and we have never used a sway control bar with it as I don't have one. This hitch was probably too big for what we were using. In talking with sales, I said I wasn't sure what the rating was on the hitch and inquired about this. She stated that for the trailer we are getting they normally recommend at least a 10K hitch or 12K might be a bit better. They use the Equal-i-zer and I guess from the stand point of it will give me sway control without another connection that I have to take off when parking it might be nice. They are asking $795 for it though and I have found it for less ($510 on Amazon) or they said they will move what I have now over for free. I might ask them if they will price match.I assume that this would also mean that if I bought the one from Amazon they would install that one for free when we go to get the camper. Though it isn't like it is hard to bolt up and mainly looking at a bit of time setting it up. I have a level section of driveway. So should I just have them move what I have now and then get consider getting either the sway control later if I need it or upgrading the bars to the other design that provides sway control?I guess I don't know how much I will need it on the camper though this one is bigger both in length and weight. I do know that if I don't get it and have it set up that means I might be mid trip and get into cross winds or some other condition where I wish I had it. This is why I am leaning toward just going with the Equal-i-zer or something similar. Do my numbers look good and thoughts on what to do with the WD hitch/sway control?

I like my Blue Ox Sway-Pro. Simple, clean, and effective.

I would have them install your present hitch to get the trailer home. I would order the Equal-i-zer hitch from wherever you want and then install it yourself at home. You will do a better job than some tech who has probably never towed anything in his life. I would probably get the hitch with 1000lb bars. The 1200 would most likely be too much and possibly would stress the A frame of the trailer.The 1000lb version of the Equal-i-zer would give you the weight distribution and sway control you need but still be flexible enough to give you a good ride and not put too much stress on the trailer. Edit: I agree with the above poster. The Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch would also be a good candidate for your application. Barney

When I read your post, I had the exact same thought as BarneyS, he beat me to it. I agree. Have the dealer install your old hitch, order the Equal-i-er, and put it on yourself. I have the Equal-i-zer with a 35 foot camper. Works great! Very easy to hitch up once you have it installed.

Thanks for the responses so far. Now it brings me to a couple questions and what may be a wrench into the recommendation....I hadn't seen the Blue Ox Sway Pro Hitch so at the recommendation here I looked into them a bit.Specifically on the Blue Ox, I see that they are doing sway control even though it is a chain style link. In searching it sounds like this was better achieved (or at least some users said so) that this effect was better with an older design than a newer design. I think this is from 2013 though so not sure when the design change happened or if there was another design change back to the old way. I will have to look into that more. I was leaning toward Equal-i-zer because I liked the idea of not having to unhook sway control when parking and such.I watched a video on youtube which covered the installation on the Blue Ox and it mentioned something I didn't consider. They mentioned that they have different versions for the Blue Ox. One for Standard Trailer Couplers and the other for Underslung Couplers. I am not an expert at trailer couplers but when this was mentioned I remembered that the coupler looked different than what I have seen before on the new trailer but didn't think much of it. The new Jayco uses an Underslung Coupler where our old camper is a Standard Trailer Coupler. Because of this will it make it more difficult, or impossible to use our old hitch on the new camper? While I agree with others here I would rather be the one setting up a hitch, I would rather they do it with a new one to get me home if my only alternative is them drilling a bunch of holes in the A frame to install my old hitch which I may not ultimately end up using. This is why I posted the question here. I didn't want them or me to drill holes in the A Frame to install a friction based Sway Control if I am better off in the long run going with a different design which may not require holes or different holes in different locations.

You can get the Equal-i-zer from RVW and free shipping, for around $450.

Sway Control and WD Hitches | Good Sam Community

coolbreeze01
Explorer
Feb 13, 2017
I like my Blue Ox Sway-Pro. Simple, clean, and effective.
BarneyS
Explorer III
Feb 13, 2017
I would have them install your present hitch to get the trailer home. I would order the Equal-i-zer hitch from wherever you want and then install it yourself at home. You will do a better job than some tech who has probably never towed anything in his life.

I would probably get the hitch with 1000lb bars. The 1200 would most likely be too much and possibly would stress the A frame of the trailer.
The 1000lb version of the Equal-i-zer would give you the weight distribution and sway control you need but still be flexible enough to give you a good ride and not put too much stress on the trailer.

Edit: I agree with the above poster. The Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch would also be a good candidate for your application.
Barney
DutchmenSport
Explorer
Feb 13, 2017
When I read your post, I had the exact same thought as BarneyS, he beat me to it. I agree. Have the dealer install your old hitch, order the Equal-i-er, and put it on yourself. I have the Equal-i-zer with a 35 foot camper. Works great! Very easy to hitch up once you have it installed.
sennister
Explorer
Feb 13, 2017
Thanks for the responses so far. Now it brings me to a couple questions and what may be a wrench into the recommendation....

I hadn't seen the Blue Ox Sway Pro Hitch so at the recommendation here I looked into them a bit.

Specifically on the Blue Ox, I see that they are doing sway control even though it is a chain style link. In searching it sounds like this was better achieved (or at least some users said so) that this effect was better with an older design than a newer design. I think this is from 2013 though so not sure when the design change happened or if there was another design change back to the old way. I will have to look into that more. I was leaning toward Equal-i-zer because I liked the idea of not having to unhook sway control when parking and such.

I watched a video on youtube which covered the installation on the Blue Ox and it mentioned something I didn't consider. They mentioned that they have different versions for the Blue Ox. One for Standard Trailer Couplers and the other for Underslung Couplers. I am not an expert at trailer couplers but when this was mentioned I remembered that the coupler looked different than what I have seen before on the new trailer but didn't think much of it. The new Jayco uses an Underslung Coupler where our old camper is a Standard Trailer Coupler.

Because of this will it make it more difficult, or impossible to use our old hitch on the new camper? While I agree with others here I would rather be the one setting up a hitch, I would rather they do it with a new one to get me home if my only alternative is them drilling a bunch of holes in the A frame to install my old hitch which I may not ultimately end up using. This is why I posted the question here. I didn't want them or me to drill holes in the A Frame to install a friction based Sway Control if I am better off in the long run going with a different design which may not require holes or different holes in different locations.
bikendan
Explorer
Feb 13, 2017
You can get the Equal-i-zer from RVW and free shipping, for around $450.
BarneyS
Explorer III
Feb 13, 2017
There will be no holes in the frame to install the old hitch. The holes come in if you decide to let them install the friction sway control bar. If you are comfortable towing without the sway control bar then you might try it that way.

Your old hitch should fit just fine on the underslung coupler that Jayco uses. Might have to turn you shank over and remount the hitch head to accommodate it but it should be no problem.

If you are towing the new trailer for a long distance then I think I would purchase the Equal-i-zer hitch and bring it with you and let them install it - even if it costs a few pennies to do so. Then, when you get it home you can re-do the installation yourself to correct any deficiencies if any.

I don't think I would tow it without sway control unless you only have a short distance to go and at fairly slow speeds. If you have a bunch of freeway driving to do then I would use some kind of sway control. Using the friction control will mean drilling 6 holes into the A frame for the small ball. Using the Equal-i-zer or Blue Ox will not require any holes to be drilled.

If it were me, I would go with the new hitch. That price at RVW with free shipping is very attractive! Just be aware that it does not include the ball. I would purchase the ball from them and have them install it before shipping. DO NOT use the old ball from your old hitch if you get the Equal-i-zer. The shank length of the ball is too long for the hitch head and will hit the WD bars when turning. There is a special hitch ball for use with that hitch.
Barney
Walaby
Explorer II
Feb 14, 2017
x2 on Blue Ox Sway Pro, but honestly I don't think you can go wrong with either BO or Equalizer... or any of the top brands for that matter.

Not sure where you got the idea that you have to disconnect the sway control on Blue Ox before backing up.... There is no issue backing up when you are fully hooked up.

Mike
sennister
Explorer
Feb 14, 2017
Thanks Barney

Yeah, I was aware of the holes needed for the friction sway bar with my current WD hitch. I just was concerned if they went to move it and they come back saying because the different coupler design that the chains are not long enough so they have to install them some other way or I have to buy some different latches for the chain side. If I do go with my current hitch to get it home, I don't really want to spend money on getting it working knowing I am really leaning to ultimately replace it.

I was looking a bit more at Blue Ox and discovered that my dealer is also a Blue Ox Dealer. So while they may normally use the Equal-i-zer, it looks like they also have the Blue Ox. I think at this point I will talk to them about my options. The odd thing is I found on their web site that they most expensive Equal-i-zer they list is the 14K for $714 which is way to big. The 10K is $618 and 12K $635. That is with the shank and as you mentioned no ball but a ball but that is a long way from $800. So I am not sure where they came up with that figure. Maybe with the ball and tax it would put it close so they just say that as an estimate. If they prepare people for an $800 bill and then say that it is actually only $700 they go away happy vs if the price went the other way. As for the Blue Ox they have it listed for $695. So just a little more than the Equal-i-zer. I think I will shop around and see if they will price match. Etrailer shows it for $615 with free shipping and no tax. It is one thing if I was just buying a hitch but we are buying the entire camper.

I think it is about 15 miles to the dealer. Honestly, I don't know where it is other than the city that it is in. Since we saw it and did the paperwork at the RV Show in Minneapolis, I haven't been there yet. Either way we are not talking a long haul to get it home. If I needed I can take back roads that run parallel to the interstate most of the way if I needed to keep the speeds down. They also said I can keep it there for free as long as I want. So I could pick it up on a nice calm day. They don't care if I don't pick it up until May or whatever. I will get it before then but with the snow we have on the ground and may still get more, I will probably wait a bit and would guess April at the very latest. It is too hard to get the camper in the back yard for storage right now anyhow.

For future trips, where we normally camp (dry camping) is about 30 miles away with 15 of it on the interstate. Because it is dry camping we will be loaded heavier with full fresh tank on the way there and on the way back we have about 5 miles to get to where we can dump the tanks. I would say 90% of our camping will be at that site because it is free and where a bunch of relatives camp.
sennister
Explorer
Feb 14, 2017
Walaby wrote:

Not sure where you got the idea that you have to disconnect the sway control on Blue Ox before backing up.... There is no issue backing up when you are fully hooked up.

Mike

Sorry on the confusion. What I was talking about disconnecting is the friction sway control. If I stuck with my Draw-Tight that I have been using on my current camper, I would want to add the friction sway control. It is better to remove this when backing into the camp site or other tight turning situations.

I agree no need to do this for the Blue Ox or Equal-i-zer. That is why I am leaning toward one of these two. I hadn't read about the Blue Ox before this thread and I like the design of it a little better than the Equal-i-zer as it looks easier to hook up.
gmckenzie
Explorer
Feb 14, 2017
Walaby wrote:
x2 on Blue Ox Sway Pro, but honestly I don't think you can go wrong with either BO or Equalizer... or any of the top brands for that matter.

Not sure where you got the idea that you have to disconnect the sway control on Blue Ox before backing up.... There is no issue backing up when you are fully hooked up.

Mike

I have an Equal-i-zer that I found used for a real good price. The only downside to it is that it lacks adjust-ability. So you set it up for how loaded you are and are kinda stuck with that setting. My understanding of the BO is you can tweak it better for changes in weight load. In my case, my water tank is near the front of the trailer. I usually tow with little water, but there are a couple dry sites I go to that I need the tank full for, and I can't really adjust the Equal-i-zer for the change.

But either are a good choice.

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