Tekonsha P3 any good with "Hensley bump"?

Hi Tery,
I used a Teckonsha P2 controller for quite a few years until I got my new truck last year. Both the P2 and P3 controllers have the "boost" feature that sends a boost to the trailer brakes before the regular settings kick in. That boost lasts for a few seconds and then tapers off to the amount of braking required by the tow vehicle. The amount of boost is set by you before using the controller. I set mine once and rarely touched it again although it is easily changed if you wish. The only time I changed it was when driving slowly through campgrounds, some city streets, etc.

In addition, the boost starts by the application of the tow vehicles stop lights. This happens before the tow vehicles brakes even start to do any stopping. This allows the Prodigy to apply trailer braking before the truck braking starts. You can easily feel this by very lightly stepping on the brakes with enough pressure to light the brake tail lights but not enough to stop the truck. You will feel the trailer brakes come on - the amount depends on the boost setting you have set up. This is something equivalent to using the hand control to apply trailer brakes.

I have never had any problem with the Hensley bump but have felt it once or twice while applying brakes and turning at the same time in the city. Never a single problem while driving normally or descending a mountain or hill at highway speeds. Perhaps I just got used to using a light foot on the brake pedal at first and that applied the trailer brakes before I needed to use the truck brakes. I really never thought about it while driving though.

I wouldn't worry about it. The P3 is a great controller, works seamlessly with the Hensley hitch, and will give you long, reliable, and smooth braking for many years. :)
Barney

FWIW the Tekonsha P3 is on sale Here for less than $120.

I have no interest in the seller or anything but thought I'd pass it along to someone who might be interested.

I do have the P3 with my 5th wheel and am happy with it.

I towed with a ProPride and DirecLink controller. There is no “bump” when braking with properly adjusted brake shoes. The controller has worked very well on one two and three axle trailers of many weight ranges.

When you use the retarder on The Big Cummins on a downhill hairpin the hitch smashes in glorious fashion :). I trailer braked a bit into the next one for a much better cornering experience :).

I had a Maxbrake fail on a trip. I emergency replaced it with a Tekonsha P3. I replaced that asap with the DirecLink. The T is carried as a spare. No like controllers that are not connected to theTV brake system for input.

2006 Dodge 3500.

noteven wrote:
I towed with a ProPride and DirecLink controller. There is no “bump” when braking with properly adjusted brake shoes. The controller has worked very well on one two and three axle trailers of many weight ranges.

When you use the retarder on The Big Cummins on a downhill hairpin the hitch smashes in glorious fashion :). I trailer braked a bit into the next one for a much better cornering experience :).

I had a Maxbrake fail on a trip. I emergency replaced it with a Tekonsha P3. I replaced that asap with the DirecLink. The T is carried as a spare. No like controllers that are not connected to theTV brake system for input.

2006 Dodge 3500.

It would be nice if DirecLink would tell us how the amount of braking is determined. I would think that it would work differently on different vehicles depending on what sensors and speed input is available.

Lynnmor wrote:

noteven wrote:
I towed with a ProPride and DirecLink controller. There is no “bump” when braking with properly adjusted brake shoes. The controller has worked very well on one two and three axle trailers of many weight ranges.

When you use the retarder on The Big Cummins on a downhill hairpin the hitch smashes in glorious fashion :). I trailer braked a bit into the next one for a much better cornering experience :).

I had a Maxbrake fail on a trip. I emergency replaced it with a Tekonsha P3. I replaced that asap with the DirecLink. The T is carried as a spare. No like controllers that are not connected to theTV brake system for input.

2006 Dodge 3500.

It would be nice if DirecLink would tell us how the amount of braking is determined. I would think that it would work differently on different vehicles depending on what sensors and speed input is available.

The one in my truck reads the truck's brake system pressure from the chassis computer and converts it to proportional voltage output to the electric brakes. You adjust it once for the trailer you are towing today and leave it alone while driving. No fiddling required.

It can also operate trailer with hydraulic brakes and ABS.

noteven wrote:
I towed with a ProPride and DirecLink controller. There is no “bump” when braking with properly adjusted brake shoes. The controller has worked very well on one two and three axle trailers of many weight ranges.

When you use the retarder on The Big Cummins on a downhill hairpin the hitch smashes in glorious fashion :). I trailer braked a bit into the next one for a much better cornering experience :).

I had a Maxbrake fail on a trip. I emergency replaced it with a Tekonsha P3. I replaced that asap with the DirecLink. The T is carried as a spare. No like controllers that are not connected to theTV brake system for input.

2006 Dodge 3500.

OK, so it sounds like DirectLink is the expensive controller that has basically taken the spot that the expensive Brakesmart and the Max occupied before they went out of business. Is that the only aftermarket one now that offers some semblance of true proportional braking?

So how many on here have the DirectLink opposed to those who just go with a P3 I wonder . . . ?

Unless the vehicle has a useable hydraulic pressure sensor, the DirecLink is probably using the wheel speed sensors to detect the need and amount of braking. Again, the consumer should be informed about how it works. If you are contemplating buying one, you might want to find that pressure sensor and then ask if it is the reference device. Some trucks have a simple on-off switch to detect brake pedal position for the ABS and a pressure sensor imbedded in the ABS valving. I have no clue if those can deliver any meaningful information to the brake controller, or if they are even read.

BarneyS wrote:
Hi Tery,
I used a Teckonsha P2 controller for quite a few years until I got my new truck last year. Both the P2 and P3 controllers have the "boost" feature that sends a boost to the trailer brakes before the regular settings kick in. That boost lasts for a few seconds and then tapers off to the amount of braking required by the tow vehicle. The amount of boost is set by you before using the controller. I set mine once and rarely touched it again although it is easily changed if you wish. The only time I changed it was when driving slowly through campgrounds, some city streets, etc.

In addition, the boost starts by the application of the tow vehicles stop lights. This happens before the tow vehicles brakes even start to do any stopping. This allows the Prodigy to apply trailer braking before the truck braking starts. You can easily feel this by very lightly stepping on the brakes with enough pressure to light the brake tail lights but not enough to stop the truck. You will feel the trailer brakes come on - the amount depends on the boost setting you have set up. This is something equivalent to using the hand control to apply trailer brakes.

I have never had any problem with the Hensley bump but have felt it once or twice while applying brakes and turning at the same time in the city. Never a single problem while driving normally or descending a mountain or hill at highway speeds. Perhaps I just got used to using a light foot on the brake pedal at first and that applied the trailer brakes before I needed to use the truck brakes. I really never thought about it while driving though.

I wouldn't worry about it. The P3 is a great controller, works seamlessly with the Hensley hitch, and will give you long, reliable, and smooth braking for many years. :)
Barney

Thanks Barney! I just took the time to more carefully read your message. I am not prepared to spend the money on a "$350 high flyer," although I'm sure that those ones would likely be marginally superior. For me, who only tows a few weeks out of the year, it sounds like the P3 would do the job, albeit not always as smooth as the Direclink. (which seems to be the only true proportional aftermarket controller now).

Had I known my Jordan would go out (it's actually my 2nd), I would have purchased a couple more of them before they went out of business. The dirt-like simplicity and effectiveness of the Jordan was too good and easy to keep going I guess! :h

My 2 cents...can't speak for the others, I've only used one for 10 years, the P3. It seems to work very well and I've heard their customer service is very good. My only complaint is it has generated full power for no apparent reason 3 times since I've owned it. It goes back to normal after a short fit. I should contact the factory but haven't. As far as operation characteristics, I love it.

mosseater wrote:
My 2 cents...can't speak for the others, I've only used one for 10 years, the P3. It seems to work very well and I've heard their customer service is very good. My only complaint is it has generated full power for no apparent reason 3 times since I've owned it. It goes back to normal after a short fit. I should contact the factory but haven't. As far as operation characteristics, I love it.

Thanks for the feedback! The P3 is always highly rated in various places I've read. Bu that's a little concerning regarding the little full power hiccups you've experienced . . . but you seem to be pleased overall.

What is your hitching arrangement - Hensley or other?