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Tongue jack grinding

kfp673
Explorer II
Explorer II
We have the 7.1 BAL auto level which uses a fairly standard electric tongue jack. I noticed recently that during retraction (after hooking to the truck for example) there is a fairy large spot where it really struggles, grinds, and works hard to keep going. It eventually gets to a good point and keeps closing but the grinding section I feel will eventually get to a point where it sticks. The BAL system has a small access hole in the shaft to grease. I have kept up with it and added even more today but it still grinds. Anyone have this and find a repair? Anywhere else I can lubricate? I feel like I have limited use of this before it breaks and Murphey's law says it will break while at a campground not when I am at home. Thanks!
5 REPLIES 5

dedmiston
Moderator
Moderator
Lwiddis wrote:
Suggest you consider the drill operated jack with a handle for back up.


Why? Why not just install a quality electric jack that comes with a manual handle? Why bother will a drill motor?

What am I missing?

2014 RAM 3500 Diesel 4x4 Dually long bed. B&W RVK3600 hitch โ€ข 2015 Crossroads Elevation Homestead Toy Hauler ("The Taj Mahauler") โ€ข <\br >Toys:

  • 18 Can Am Maverick x3
  • 05 Yamaha WR450
  • 07 Honda CRF250X
  • 05 Honda CRF230
  • 06 Honda CRF230

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Suggest you consider the drill operated jack with a handle for back up.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

I strongly suggest replacing it immediately. The worm gear inside is stripping and failure is imminent!

My hand crank tongue jack did exactly as you describe when we were packing up for a trip home after a 3 week holiday. It had been getting stiffer and harder to crank up.

I was standing at the tongue cranking it up so we could hitch up and the jack suddenly fully collapsed internally. The nose of our 32' TT crashed to the ground in an instant.

Fortunately, I always keep a wide stance and my feet well away from the hitch. It could have caused serious injury had I been standing close.

There is no fixing it, it is done.

I took the top off mine prior to the failure and liberally oiled it. Sorta helped a bit but not much. It broke anyways.

And yes, it broke at a campground when I was not at home. 750 miles away in fact. And, it happened at the start of a massive rain storm. It took an hour and a half with a bottle jack and a lot of wood blocks to get it up onto the hitch. I was soaked to the skin by then. Not fun.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Not sure if itโ€™s the same issue, but my Atwood started making sounds (grinding) which progressively got louder. Took it apart and found the screws mounting the motor were loose reinstalled with LP tire and never had the problem again.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

agesilaus
Explorer III
Explorer III
Is it worth repairing? You can try to take it apart and see if the shaft is bent, that seems like a possibility. But as for paying someone to fix it, just buy a new one. They are easy to swap out, usually three bolts and the electrical splice.
Arctic Fox 25Y Travel Trailer
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