Towing a 2008 2dr Jeep Wrangler

dahkota wrote:
We tow our Wrangler with a Ready Brute. It has the brake integrated into the tow bar. It takes me three minutes by myself to completely hook or unhook it - the simplest towing system on the road. For the lights, I got a Mopar wiring harness (Part # 82211156AB). Much easier than messing with adding bulbs or magnetic lights - just plug it into the 7-pin.

As for a baseplate, the Ready Brute has adapters for Blue Ox and other base plates. However, if you off-road, you may not want to lose the ground clearance. In that case, you can go with a custom bumper like we did (Rockhard Bumper).

Very cool. Looks like the best option. Thanks!

BlackJeep22 wrote:
First time motorhome owner. We just purchased a 2016 Coachman Concord 300DS (Class C), 32'.
Eventually, we will be towing my (manual transmission) Wrangler.
1)Can anyone recommend a good towbar?
2)Am I required to have the tail lights and break lights hooked up on the Wrangler?
Thanks in advance.

Our Falcon 2 has worked well for 5 years. bought cheap on e-bay. we tow a 07 Wrangler, get the proper info on the steering lock, and which position the key needs to be in to unlock the steering. plus if the key needs to be in "Run " position disconnect the battery. many will tell you to pull the fuse, but on ours that doesn't work.

you can always up grade the front bumper and tow with the standard "A" type tow bar. but it's tricky to hook up with 1 person.

We tow our Wrangler with a Ready Brute. It has the brake integrated into the tow bar. It takes me three minutes by myself to completely hook or unhook it - the simplest towing system on the road. For the lights, I got a Mopar wiring harness (Part # 82211156AB). Much easier than messing with adding bulbs or magnetic lights - just plug it into the 7-pin.

As for a baseplate, the Ready Brute has adapters for Blue Ox and other base plates. However, if you off-road, you may not want to lose the ground clearance. In that case, you can go with a custom bumper like we did (Rockhard Bumper).

BlackJeep22 wrote:

mowermech wrote:


You can't use it with your Jeep, but it would be great for my PT cruiser.
Well, yes, you CAN use it for your Jeep, but you have to get under it once it is on the dolly and remove the rear drive shaft!
I had a dolly once, used it to tow the PT from MT to Tenn. and back. No problems. But, silly me, I sold it. I do wish I would have kept it!

Why couldn't I just put my manual tranny and transfer case BOTH in neutral?

READ and FOLLOW the instructions in the Owners Manual!

For your convenience, they have been posted.

From the JK OM:

mowermech wrote:


You can't use it with your Jeep, but it would be great for my PT cruiser.
Well, yes, you CAN use it for your Jeep, but you have to get under it once it is on the dolly and remove the rear drive shaft!
I had a dolly once, used it to tow the PT from MT to Tenn. and back. No problems. But, silly me, I sold it. I do wish I would have kept it!

Why couldn't I just put my manual tranny and transfer case BOTH in neutral?

BlackJeep22 wrote:
This is ALL great info. Thanks!
What do you guys think about a "Tow Dolly"? A buddy of mine says his neighbor has one that he can have for free. My buddy said I could have it.

You can't use it with your Jeep, but it would be great for my PT cruiser.
Well, yes, you CAN use it for your Jeep, but you have to get under it once it is on the dolly and remove the rear drive shaft!
I had a dolly once, used it to tow the PT from MT to Tenn. and back. No problems. But, silly me, I sold it. I do wish I would have kept it!

IMO Tow Dolly = PITA. My experience is from nearly 40 yrs ago but it doesn't appear to me that tow dollies have changed much. For me, they took longer and were dirtier to hookup than any other means. The tow dolly was almost always in the way on a campsite. 1 campsite with a MH, a car and a tow dolly. Lots of equipment for one site. So why take longer and a dirtier procedure? Assume you have all your equipment on the site and it is raining when you want to leave.

Towing 4 down, you pull your toad in line with and at the proper distance from the MH (while you're still dry inside the toad). Hop out and put 2 pins in the connection between base plate and tow bar. Attach electrical connection and 2 breakaway cables. Put toad in neutral, turn off key and go. You can do the hookup with one arm while the other holds an umbrella if you wish.

Now with a tow dolly. Horse the tow dolly into place behind MH (while you get wet) or back the MH to the tow dolly. Hook the dolly to the MH using the old fashioned hitch coupler. Hook up the same electrical connections and breakaway cables. Now line up the car with the dolly and drive it onto the dolly (not always the easiest) and put car in neutral and turn off key. Get out the 2 wheel tie down nets and put them around the front wet muddy wheels of the car. Then cinch them down. Guarantee that you will be wetter and dirtier and will have spent 5X or more minutes.

Reference made above to needing brakes. Auto Stop and the Ready Brake systems are mechanical surge brakes not requiring any electrical brake wiring nor any wired in box on the toad's floorboard mechanically attached to the brake pedal (another kneel down on the ground to attach apparatus and another apparatus to store when in camp). Surge brakes were typically used on boat trailers, are simple and effective and create zero storage issues.

BlackJeep22 wrote:
This is ALL great info. Thanks!
What do you guys think about a "Tow Dolly"? A buddy of mine says his neighbor has one that he can have for free. My buddy said I could have it.

If it's a 4X4 it can only be towed 4 Down or on a trailer without causing drivetrain damage period.

This is ALL great info. Thanks!
What do you guys think about a "Tow Dolly"? A buddy of mine says his neighbor has one that he can have for free. My buddy said I could have it.