Towing a Jay Feather 19H with a 2009 Nissan Pathfinder SE

[Ryan01463]

Any worries here? Most towing will be 2 hour trips from northern Massachusetts to the White Mountain Region in New Hampshire. Not a ton of large up hill roads, mostly long inclines and 90% of the travel will be highway. Weight Distribution Hitch and Sway bars needed?

Ive seen this exact vehicle towing much larger campers on the highways and parked at camprgrounds.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Trailer Specs

Unloaded vehicle weight (lbs.) 3615
Hitch weight (lbs.) 440
Gross vehicle weight (lbs.) 4950
Cargo carrying capacity (lbs.) 1335

Vehicle Specs

MAXIMUM TOWING CAPACITY** 6000 lbs.
MAXIMUM PAYLOAD** 1564 lbs.
GROSS WEIGHT 6000 lbs.
CURB WEIGHT 4446 lbs.

[kvangil]

I would add ONE more thing ELECTRIC BRAKE CONTROLLER.

Have fun with your camper!!!!!!!!

True! You'd think that would be obvious, but you never know... 🙂 The Prodigy P3 that I use is basically plug-n-play.

[cmcdar]

kvangil wrote:
1. ALL Pathfinders of the 2005-2012 vintage have a 6000lbs tow capacity. V8's have a 7000lbs rating.
2. Yes, you need a WD hitch with sway control. No, you do not need airbags if the WD hitch is adjusted properly.
3. Yes, you'll tow that camper just fine; it'll just be "adequate" but for the short hop that you intend to use it for, it will do the job.
4. You will tow best in 3rd gear, especially if there are hills. Wind will be your worst enemy.
5. You'll need to replace the 4-pin connector with a 7-pin connector. There is a plug-n-play version from the dealer.
6. This NA V6 will do the job adequately.

Yes, I tow a 24' 4950lbs camper a 2005 V6 Pathfinder with 140K miles and counting.... PM me with any specific questions.

I would add ONE more thing ELECTRIC BRAKE CONTROLLER.

Have fun with your camper!!!!!!!!

[kvangil]

1. ALL Pathfinders of the 2005-2012 vintage have a 6000lbs tow capacity. V8's have a 7000lbs rating.
2. Yes, you need a WD hitch with sway control. No, you do not need airbags if the WD hitch is adjusted properly.
3. Yes, you'll tow that camper just fine; it'll just be "adequate" but for the short hop that you intend to use it for, it will do the job.
4. You will tow best in 3rd gear, especially if there are hills. Wind will be your worst enemy.
5. You'll need to replace the 4-pin connector with a 7-pin connector. There is a plug-n-play version from the dealer.
6. This NA V6 will do the job adequately.

Yes, I tow a 24' 4950lbs camper a 2005 V6 Pathfinder with 140K miles and counting.... PM me with any specific questions.

[DaveF-250SD]

Ryan01463 wrote:

handye9 wrote:


Maybe, maybe not.

These max capacities are manufacturer advertised numbers. They only apply to properly equipped versions of Pathfinders. All others will have max tow capacity of 5000 lbs.

If your vehicle did not come with factory tow package, it's not in the group with 6000 lb tow capacity. There may be some modifications needed, to get it there.

Look for a tire / loading sticker on your drivers door jamb. It should show a max occupant / cargo (payload) weight. That number is your Pathfinder's capacity to carry aftermarket accessories, people, cargo, weight distributing hitch (if needed), and trailer tongue weight, combined.

As you add accessories, people, and cargo, your max available payload and max towing capacity are going down, pound for pound. Example: Put 200 lbs of luggage on the roof rack, and 500 lbs of people and stuff inside the vehicle, it's max towing capacity is 700 lbs less.

The need for a weight distributing hitch is based on trailer weight. If loaded (key word = loaded, not UVW) trailer weight is less than 5000 lbs, WD hitch is not required. Though it may be desired when loaded weight is close to 5000. WD hitch will add approximately 100 lbs to your tow vehicle cargo (takes away from payload and tow capacity) weight.

The hitch receiver must be class III / IV with 2" receiver to have more than 5000 lb capacity.

Average trailer load (dealer options, battery, propane, camping gear, dishes, bedding, water, groceries, etc) is approximately 800 - 1000 lbs.

Average tongue weight is about 12.5 percent of loaded trailer weight.

Mine is a V6 model and came equppied with the Tow Package with a 2" Receiver.

Sticker on the trailer hitch says 6000lb Tow Capacity and 600lb Tongue weight.

I'm looking at WD Hitches and adding the airlift 1000 to the rear springs to keep the rear from any possible sagging.

You may want to check with Nissan, or your owner's manual. Just because the hitch has a 6,000 lb. capacity does not necessarily mean that the vehicle has that same towing capacity. Never hurts to double check.

[cmcdar]

SoundGuy,

YES, once you get to know how this all works - it all makes sense. But until then it is very confusing.

Really, there comes a time when someone tows their very first travel trailer and NONE of this stuff elementary. Perhaps you grew up camping and you watched a parent do all this stuff. But some of us had no such experience. We have to start with the very basics.


REGARDING Weight Distribution Hitches: Here is a short video that gives somewhat of an explanation - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cPmCmRHG7E

[Campfire_Time]

SoundGuy wrote:
after all, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to recognize that if you lever the far rear end of most any vehicle

Actually, to many people, this really is rocket science. I've watched a lot of these threads over the years, and I often jump in and explain the reason for WD and the need to regain steering control. Until you spell that out for them, they often don't understand. A lot of people really think towing a travel trailer is as simple a dropping a utility trailer on the back of your vehicle.

Back in the bad old days, using air shocks for towing was not only common, but that's how a lot of people thought it was done. Hence the thinking today that airbags solves your rear squat problem. I've had people come up to me at gas stations asking me how I got my trailer so level. It doesn't help that both car and RV dealers tell folks they can tow 30 ft trailer with a mini-van. These same car dealers are also the ones that tell them to get airbags.

[SoundGuy]

cmcdar wrote:
SoundGuy,

Sorry for your frustration. Regardless of the many million times something has been discussed, us new folks were not privy to those discussions.

If you are tired of this discussion, you could just avoid the thread.

I for one am glad that new TT users are asking the right questions as it is not just their safety at stake. Everyone driving down the road is vulnerable to the other drivers around them.

All of these tongue wgts, dry wgts., gross wgts., etc can be very confusing to us new folks and it may take time to get it straight BUT we are trying to do the right thing.

Clearly you missed my point entirely ... no where did I say I was "frustrated" or "tired" nor did I even once mention "newbies". The point is that weight distribution has been around as long as the day is long and it's not just newbies that question the value of WD and are so willing offer up air bags as a solution to rear end vehicle sag when in fact they have no ability at all to restore a vehicle's intended front > back weight balance when towing. Rather, what I actually said is I wondered "why so many" have such a total lack of understanding of the principles involved ... after all, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to recognize that if you lever the far rear end of most any vehicle with 500, 600, 700, 800, 900, etc lbs of gross tongue weight it's going to unload the front steer axle, which in some cases is also a drive axle. Obviously the impact will be a lot different if that vehicle happens to be an F350 but let's face it, most here on these forums aren't towing travel trailers with that kind of vehicle but more often (if we're lucky) with a 1/2 ton, and sometimes less. :E There's no magic to any of this - dropping that much weight on a hitch ball will negatively impact the vehicle's weight distribution ratio and not surprisingly it's handling ... weight distribution is a time tested method of restoring the vehicle's front > back weight ratio, air bags simply can't.

[handye9]

Ryan01463 wrote:
Thanks for the advice, I'll look into them. Any insight on the WD hitches from etrailer?

I've done business with etrailer, more than once. IMHO, their customer service is top notch. I don't know if they stock the Andersen WD hitch.

I bought mine from an ebay seller. Here's a link.

[camp-n-family]

As you have read, there are many posters who believe that you can't tow with a V6 or anything less than a dually. That TT is well within your tow vehicles specs and capabilities, unless you plan on loading 1k of passengers into it. There is no reason why you couldn't, or shouldn't pull it safely.

Of course there are vehicles out there that will do a better job but you'll be fine with what you have. A WD hitch will be a must for the tongue weight. The short wheelbase Pathfinder will benefit from one with built in sway control. Don't be afraid to let the V6 rev. It's power is found higher in the RPM band.

I towed the same TT across the country with a V6 4Runner.

[cmcdar]

Ryan,

I am new to towing a travel trailer as well. I will be towing a 19' hybrid with a 2006 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab.

I have found excellent information regarding towing with Nissans in the Nissan forum:
http://www.nissanforums.com/pathfinder/146852-towing-2008-pathfinder.html

Good Luck and have fun,
Caryl

[Ryan01463]

handye9 wrote:

Ryan01463 wrote:
I'm looking at WD Hitches and adding the airlift 1000 to the rear springs to keep the rear from any possible sagging.

If it were me, I would look at Andersen WD hitches.

Reasons being:

Standard WD hitches require lubrication (this collects dirt) on the trunion bars, hitch head, and the ball. Andersen hitch requires no lubrication of any kind. If you wanted to throw your hitch in the back end of your Pathfinder, cleaning up from an Andersen hitch, could be done with a vaccum cleaner. The other hitches could be a different story. A common response to questions about which grease to use on standard WD hitches is "whatever color matches your clothing".

Andersen hitch has been reported as working very well on trailers of the size you are looking at. I've been using one, 4 - 5 years now, with a much heavier trailer.

Standard WD hitches are known for groaning noises, while backing and turning. These noises are non existant with the Andersen WD hitch.

Standard hitches weigh an average of 80 to 100 lbs. Andersen hitch weighs 60 lbs, including the parts that stay on the trailer. Putting the hitch in and out of the receiver, is much easier and cleaner.

Andersen hitch has built in sway control.

Thanks for the advice, I'll look into them. Any insight on the WD hitches from etrailer?

[handye9]

Ryan01463 wrote:
I'm looking at WD Hitches and adding the airlift 1000 to the rear springs to keep the rear from any possible sagging.

If it were me, I would look at Andersen WD hitches.

Reasons being:

Standard WD hitches require lubrication (this collects dirt) on the trunion bars, hitch head, and the ball. Andersen hitch requires no lubrication of any kind. If you wanted to throw your hitch in the back end of your Pathfinder, cleaning up from an Andersen hitch, could be done with a vaccum cleaner. The other hitches could be a different story. A common response to questions about which grease to use on standard WD hitches is "whatever color matches your clothing".

Andersen hitch has been reported as working very well on trailers of the size you are looking at. I've been using one, 4 - 5 years now, with a much heavier trailer.

Standard WD hitches are known for groaning noises, while backing and turning. These noises are non existant with the Andersen WD hitch.

Standard hitches weigh an average of 80 to 100 lbs. Andersen hitch weighs 60 lbs, including the parts that stay on the trailer. Putting the hitch in and out of the receiver, is much easier and cleaner.

Andersen hitch has built in sway control.

[cmcdar]

SoundGuy,

Sorry for your frustration. Regardless of the many million times something has been discussed, us new folks were not privy to those discussions.

If you are tired of this discussion, you could just avoid the thread.

I for one am glad that new TT users are asking the right questions as it is not just their safety at stake. Everyone driving down the road is vulnerable to the other drivers around them.

All of these tongue wgts, dry wgts., gross wgts., etc can be very confusing to us new folks and it may take time to get it straight BUT we are trying to do the right thing.

...off

[SoundGuy]

Ryan01463 wrote:
Mine is a V6 model and came equppied with the Tow Package with a 2" Receiver. Sticker on the trailer hitch says 6000lb Tow Capacity and 600lb Tongue weight. I'm looking at WD Hitches and adding the airlift 1000 to the rear springs to keep the rear from any possible sagging.

handye9 wrote:
When you hang the tongue weight on your hitch, it takes weight off (like a see saw) from your front axle. If the front axle is too light, it can cause sway issues, due to subconscious hand movements and winds pushing on the tow vehicle. The purpose of weight distributing hitch, is to restore weight to your front axle. Airbags will lift the rear of the vehicle and make it look level, but, they will not restore any weight lost from the front end. They can be used with WD hitch and may improve your ride. Just know they are not helping with how the trailer weight is affecting your axles, and should not be used in place of the WD hitch.

Every time I read this sage advice I have to wonder why so many just don't appreciate how important using a properly sized and adjusted weight distribution system is and why air bags are just not the solution. Pretty hard to understand 'cause If this has been repeated once on pretty well every towing forum out there it's surely been repeated hundreds of thousands if not millions of times by now. :S

Yeah, yeah I know ... off my soapbox now. But geez! :R