Towing a vintage car?

Remco Driveshaft disconnects are available through Superior Driveline: https://www.remcodsc.com/coupling/

I tow a '97 Ford Aerostar (rear wheel drive) with no problems and no miles accrue on the odometer - the transmission remains in PARK while being towed.

The baseplate is another issue. Make sure your installation is up to the task.

I use and prefer the NSA's ReadyBrake https://www.readybrake.com/store/c3/Supplemental_Braking_Systems.html It's given me great service for many, many years.

I wouldn’t think the automatic would take kindly to being towed four down. Perhaps the manual could but perhaps. I assume these are show cars that you don’t want dinged up? If so you might want to consider trailering it under cover.

Haven't bought yet, not looking for a show car. Probably buy a nice driver condition so dings, etc. won't be a problem for me.
I do use a Readybrake now for my truck and Tahoe. Great towbar.

Manual transmissions are NOT necessarily towable. More often than not, the lube is distributed by the rotating cluster gear which is powered by the input shaft. When the engine is not running, the input shaft is stationary and no lube is distributed. The center mainshaft needle bearings and output shaft ball bearings will eventually run dry and self-destruct. Be sure you know how the transmission is lubricated before setting the vehicle up for towing four down!
SOME older automatic transmissions may have a rear pump driven by the output shaft. That pump MIGHT provide lubrication to the bearings. Such vehicles often can be push started by getting it up to 35 MPH in Neutral, then putting the transmission in drive. The rear pump will supply sufficient hydraulic pressure to engage the clutches or bands.
A driveshaft disconnect may be the best bet for towing four down. It is likely that a good fabrication shop will have to custom design and install the baseplates to match the towbar.
A trailer to load the vehicle might be an option, depending on the likes/desires of the operator

I would put it on a trailer and let the trailer hubs take the miles. It is easier on the very old drive train.

Add me to the trailer recognition.

I don't know if it would be practical but, an early 60's Chrysler would be a cool toad.

I have thought about an older car and was leaning toward early 60's Ranchero, based on the falcon. The ones Ive looked at have been 3spds. I haven't gotten very far with it yet, but I do know they do not make a base plate for one.

folivier wrote:
Haven't bought yet, not looking for a show car. Probably buy a nice driver condition so dings, etc. won't be a problem for me.
I do use a Readybrake now for my truck and Tahoe. Great towbar.

I nice driver condition vintage car might not cost the $100K plus you see on Barrett Jackson, but will still cost a pretty penny to get one in decent shape. The modifications you will need to do will likely reduce the car's value by more than the cost of a trailer, but it's your money. :)

rjstractor wrote:

folivier wrote:
Haven't bought yet, not looking for a show car. Probably buy a nice driver condition so dings, etc. won't be a problem for me.
I do use a Readybrake now for my truck and Tahoe. Great towbar.

I nice driver condition vintage car might not cost the $100K plus you see on Barrett Jackson, but will still cost a pretty penny to get one in decent shape. The modifications you will need to do will likely reduce the car's value by more than the cost of a trailer, but it's your money. :)

$100K?
I guess it depends on your definition of "vintage car". I have seen "daily driver" capable cars from the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s around here for less than $10K. In fact, I have a 1966 Chevelle 4 door sedan (needs transmission work, Powerglide) That I don't really want to sell, but if somebody offered 4 or 5K for it, I would just have to let it go (it has the 230CID inline 6).
1950s cars will be in the $15K to $25K range in driveable condition, a great deal more if restored, but never in the $100K range.