If you can find DOT scales that are running but currently closed, that will help you load up the first time. Once you get an idea of actual weights, you can compensate for additional items you might want to carry. I try to get the engine over or forward of the trailer axles, but I have 300 lbs of batteries on the trailer tongue and can also haul an additional 700 lbs of fresh water inside the trailer forward of the axle in holding tanks.
My 20' enclosed trailer weighs about 3500 lbs empty and uses dual 5K+ lb torsion axles. My trailer has a 4" drop with dove tail so even low slung vehicles will not have a problem with the break over angles.I have a door up front allowing me to store access additional items when the vehicle is loaded.
If you are hauling a 2-door car, you will want an escape door to be able to open the car door enough to get out. If your car is taller than 6', you will want a trailer with additional height (typical purchased in one foot increments}. Make sure the tongue length is 4' or more so tight turn or driveway dips do not allow the trailer and RV to touch.
I use wheel nets/bonnets to tie down the car rather than trying to tie to frame or suspension.
If you are hauling a 2-door car, you will want an escape door to be able to open the car door enough to get out. If your car is taller than 6', you will want a trailer with additional height (typical purchased in one foot increments}. Make sure the tongue length is 4' or more so tight turn or driveway dips do not allow the trailer and RV to touch.
I use wheel nets/bonnets to tie down the car rather than trying to tie to frame or suspension.
I agree with a 7,500 GVWR trailer as well. There are some really nice all aluminum ones on the market now, such as EZ Hauler and Mission trailers. Once you hit the 8k GVWR mark, some states kick it into a higher registration class, and it looks like NY charges by the 500 pounds for registration.
Electric brakes are fine for a car trailer. If they have the option, self-adjusting brakes are really nice, but also easy to add later. IMO aluminum wheels are a must, because they are less likely to seize in place if you drive on salted winter roads.
The other option I'd look at is tie-down locations. These are basically customer-spec'd, and some dealers do better jobs than others when they spec their in-stock trailers. Make sure there are enough tie-down for the style straps you want to use, and that you can reach them without crawling under the car. I really like 2-point wheel straps, because they still allow the suspension to work. Tying to the chassis can cause extra shock on the straps when the suspension compresses on bumps then rebounds. This shock can tear the hooks out of unibody cars. If you watch most flat-bed tow trucks these days, they've mostly switch to wheels straps for this reason unless they're hauling a pickup.
Lastly, make sure the trailer has the driver-side "escape door" option. Some brands even offer this door large enough to go all the way to the floor of the trailer, which will make it far safer for egress.
Electric brakes are fine for a car trailer. If they have the option, self-adjusting brakes are really nice, but also easy to add later. IMO aluminum wheels are a must, because they are less likely to seize in place if you drive on salted winter roads.
The other option I'd look at is tie-down locations. These are basically customer-spec'd, and some dealers do better jobs than others when they spec their in-stock trailers. Make sure there are enough tie-down for the style straps you want to use, and that you can reach them without crawling under the car. I really like 2-point wheel straps, because they still allow the suspension to work. Tying to the chassis can cause extra shock on the straps when the suspension compresses on bumps then rebounds. This shock can tear the hooks out of unibody cars. If you watch most flat-bed tow trucks these days, they've mostly switch to wheels straps for this reason unless they're hauling a pickup.
Lastly, make sure the trailer has the driver-side "escape door" option. Some brands even offer this door large enough to go all the way to the floor of the trailer, which will make it far safer for egress.
