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Towing Shouldn't Be This Difficult - Help Needed

paintscando
Explorer
Explorer
Hello -

We took the maiden voyage with our new rig over the weekend. Camping was great. The trip there and back left a lot to be desired.

Here's our story -
All along I have been a lot more concerned with weights and measurements than my husband. So, after many discussions we purchased a new TV - 2003 F350 Crew Cab SRW. Surely that would be able to tow our reasonable sized camper. After last weekend, I don't want to ride in it... ever! I don't know what we are doing wrong but hoping that someone, anyone, can help.

The truck and trailer were all over the road. Like we were floating, with little control at speeds only up to 55mph. I realize the problem is probably a combination of the truck and the trailer because even when not towing, the truck does tend to wander. Maybe tires will help that. Currently it has D rated tires, which I have read is a no-no. We will upgrade to E rated. I doubt that will completely fix the wander in the Ford front end. We also just had a tie rod replaced, tire rotated and aligned. Little to no improvement.

Before the weekend we had the Equalizer Hitch adjusted for the new truck. I'm not sure it's set right (based on the way it tows), but how do you know....? And, how do you change it?

We went to the scales. If anyone would care to analyze our findings, that would be great! It seems to me we are within our limits, but I'm not an expert.

The truck door sticker - GVWR is 9900;
Front Axle is 4400
Rear Axle is 6830

Rig Weights -
Gross Weight = 14480
Front Axle = 3940
Rear Axle = 4120
Trailer Axle = 6420

Unhooked and Loaded Truck Weight -
Gross Weight = 7200
Front Axle = 4200
Drive Axle = 3000

From this I believe that shows our loaded trailer weighed 7280. Beyond that, I'm not sure what it all means. Is it normal that our front end weight would drop 260 pounds with the trailer hooked up? I understand the weight on the bumper lessens the weight on the front end, but are our weights in line with what is normal?

So sorry for such a long post and all the questions, I just don't know where to start. I thought getting a heavy duty truck to replace the Expy TV would be enough. So, pretty discouraged.

Thanks in advance.
Kristy
62 REPLIES 62

TomG2
Explorer
Explorer
Hey Kristy;

Glad to hear you are making some real progress with your truck, (despite all the help on here). ๐Ÿ™‚ You and your husband have done a good job of analyzing and correcting problems with your tow vehicle. Good luck and enjoy the camping season.

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
tinner12002 wrote:
I've never used a hitch like that but I asked how does a person know how to adjust them. I was told from a couple of people that have used them to measure your space between bot of rear fender opening and the top of the tire unloaded, then adjust that when loaded to about 1 inch less. Also make sure your tires have proper air preasure, if their down some that will also give you a wandering feeling even when unloaded.


The measuring technique is basically what's set forth in the instructions. The Equalizer hitch is a pretty simple concept and easy to set up correctly (or wrong if the shop does not bother to read the instructions). Shops that install a lot of them and are familiar with the procedure will have no problem, as the end user will not if they decide to do it themselves. It's good to verify the measurements to make sure enough weight is transferred back to the front wheels.

Kristy,
Good to hear you got your problem solved for the most part. With a bit of minor tweaking, you'll arrive at a perfect setup.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

tinner12002
Explorer
Explorer
I've never used a hitch like that but I asked how does a person know how to adjust them. I was told from a couple of people that have used them to measure your space between bot of rear fender opening and the top of the tire unloaded, then adjust that when loaded to about 1 inch less. Also make sure your tires have proper air preasure, if their down some that will also give you a wandering feeling even when unloaded.
2015 Ram 3500/DRW/Aisin/auto/Max tow/4.10s,Cummins, stock Laramie Limited--Silver
Tequila Sunrise 2012 Ultra Classic Limited
2018 Raptor 428SP

Carrera_man
Explorer
Explorer
Ron Gratz wrote:
Yes, caster does promote return-to-center.

But, proper toe setting also is needed for directional stability.

Ron

OP is complaining about return to center which caster promotes. Toe is pretty much for stability as you pointed out.
2008 Chevy 2500 Crew Cab 6.0 gas, 2013 Audi A5 Q, 2013 VRV 26FB Toy Hauler by Livin Lite , Triumph 1200 Explorer

TomG2
Explorer
Explorer
And don't forget camber. The whole front end (and frame) geometry needs to be within certain tolerances to ensure a good drive.

Ron_Gratz
Explorer
Explorer
Yes, caster does promote return-to-center.

But, proper toe setting also is needed for directional stability.

Ron

Carrera_man
Explorer
Explorer
Castor is what returns your steering to center, not toe.
2008 Chevy 2500 Crew Cab 6.0 gas, 2013 Audi A5 Q, 2013 VRV 26FB Toy Hauler by Livin Lite , Triumph 1200 Explorer

paintscando
Explorer
Explorer
Yesterday my husband replaced the steering gear box with a Red Head Gear Box. WOW!!!! What a difference that made!!! For what it's worth, he also replaced the pitman arm.

The truck is still not quick to return to center BUT, once you find center, it stays there, no more "driving" to keep it going straight. What a relief! The steering wheel is now slightly cocked, so back for a THIRD alignment. Hopefully the last place we took it will adjust free of charge. We will ask them to set it to toe-in, as was recommended a few messages up. Maybe that will help with RETURN to center.

The repair gave me enough confidence to drive it thru the country to my parents yesterday, a trip that I would not have taken in it before the fix. Finally, it's like driving a normal heavy duty truck.

Today we will be addressing the hitch set up and making test pulls. Maybe even back to the scales.

Bottom line - Obviously there were some things worn out in the front end that needed to be addressed and we did need (want) the E rated tires, BUT it was the steering gear box that ultimately made the difference.

I'll post the results of the hitch work later today or tomorrow.

Have a great holiday weekend!

Kristy

paintscando
Explorer
Explorer
To answer the questions about the hitch... We haven't done anything yet to readjust. We will address that this week, or weekend. ๐Ÿ™‚

TomG2
Explorer
Explorer
As you have discovered, your steering problems have everything to do with the tow vehicle. Too bad, because it would be a lot easier to adjust the hitch. Your F-350 will pull your trailer quite well without any weight distribution hitch when you get the truck operating properly. Lack of positive castor could very well be your problem. I have pulled similar trailers with F-250's and other 3/4 pickups without any of the dreaded loss of control from losing a couple hundred pounds off the front axle.

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Also, I have not heard if you verified your EQ hitch is set up correctly. The idea is to transfer the weight back to the front end that was removed by the application of tongue weight. Although the steering box might indeed be your problem, too light on the front end is not good either and will definitely cause bad handling. You need to check both to eliminate one or the other.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everyone for your help and input on our issue. I think it was this forum that enlightened me to the phrase "won't return to center". That's exactly what the problem is, which I was describing as "wander".


You need to take it to an alignment shop and tell them to put as much "castor" as they can get into the front end.

Read about positive castor here.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"

"The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly."- Abraham Lincoln

paintscando
Explorer
Explorer
Good morning everyone!

I drove the truck yesterday for the first time since the new tires, new ball joints and new tie rod. I agree with my husband in that it is better but not 100%. It does seem to want to return to center more than before, but just can't quite get there. It seems there is less play in the steering wheel, so you don't have far to turn the wheel to "drive" it straight. A little tricky to get used to (to find the sweet spot), but better.

We made progress last night!! With my husband under the truck and me inside the cab, he watched the steering gear turn under the truck as I turned the wheel in the truck (truck was off, key in the AC position). If you picture the Ford emblem as pointing to 3 and 9, this is what we found - I could turn the wheel back and forth quite a distance before my husband could see it move under the truck. He did not see anything move under the truck until I got to 2 and 4 (10 and 8 on the left). Seeing that convinced him that there might actually be something wrong in the steering gear box. Remember, two shops checked the box and said it was fine. So, he tightened the box one full turn and took it for a drive. He found there was NO play in the wheel, it was harder to turn and it did not return to center. Back under the truck. He loosened the gear box two full turns. So, from the original position, it is now one full turn looser. Took it for a drive. Now, it returns to center, but there is more play in the wheel. Even with the added play, he says MUCH improved!! So, we are on the path to replacing with a Red Head Gear Box. I don't know when, but it will be soon.

Thanks everyone for your help and input on our issue. I think it was this forum that enlightened me to the phrase "won't return to center". That's exactly what the problem is, which I was describing as "wander".

Now that we are on the right track to getting the truck going straight, we can adjust the WDH/sway hitch and I think we will be all set. Finally, happy campers!!

I'll keep you posted on the gear box replacement and anything else that comes up.

Kristy

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
RedJeep wrote:
Hello. We had the same problem. Felt more like we were piloting a boat than a truck and trailer. Our setup is a 2000 Ford Excursion diesel and a 36 foot travel trailer. The trailer pushed the truck all over the road. Without the trailer the truck still drove like crap. We ended up finding a bunch of problems. The setup we have now works perfect. He is what we did.
Truck:
New ball joints

New tires; we got rid of one size larger "D" rated MTs and put new Michelin E rated tires of the OEM size.

Now the truck drives perfect.

Trailer:

We had been piling too much stuff (generator, bicycles, etc) on the trailer's rear bumper so now we place much more weight up front

Installed a second sway control bar


That was it. Of course we use a weight distribution hitch. The setup now drives very smooth. Happy family now.


---Robert Vaughn, Oregon.



One thing you touched on was putting too much weight on the rear of the trailer. That reduces tongue weight and can induce sway and bad handling.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"