Towing with steep grades

i towed with a psd for 13 years without an exhaust brake. Been down 7% without a problem one.

All of it was interstate, but was a piece of cake. Watch for the curve warning signs and get slowed down before entering.

BTW that old saying of down in the same gear as up never applies to me in the smokies on the interstate. I used to have to grind up the long grades at 45 mph in second. If you went 45 down the long straight grades where you could see the bottom, you would likely be a road hazard on a busy day. Just saying, one rule does not apply to all situations in this case.

How steep and where is the dictator.

When you see that sign on the side of the freeway that says 'trucks use low gear', use it!

So if you have a 4 speed auto, then shift out of overdrive at the top of the hill. If you start the top of the hill at 45 MPH, it will probably coast up to around 55, and then apply the brakes to slow back to 45, then give them time to cool off.

While it is difficult to describe, you do not want to apply the brakes 'hard' or extra firm, but more like light firm application, like when you are getting close to a stop sign, not when a motorcycle pulls out in front of you hard braking.

Also you mention it is a 2004. Have you changed the brake fluid lately? IT should be replaced every 6-7 years, as it absorbs moisture over time, and 'wet' brake fluid can boil at say 355F while new and dry brake fluid will not boil until around 400F.

What does your transmission fluid look and smell like? It should not smell, and should be clear red, not dark brown. It gets dark brown by being heated above 275F on a climb. If it is dark brown, a change right away is in order, along with a new in the pan filter.

When I last changed my motorhome transmission fluid, I removed one of the lines going to the cooler, and put a hose from each side into a 5 gallon bucket. Then started the engine. It will pump out most of the fluid in about 2 minutes. Stop the engine when it stops flowing out freely, and most of the fluid from the torque converter will be in the bucket. (you can never drain it all out). Then taking off the pan, there is 'no' mess, as you will not have 10 quarts of fluid dripping down your arms as you loosen the bolts on one end, to the other.

With the pan off, you can get to the internal filter and a magnet in the pan bottom. Clean all the metal shavings off this magnet, it can collect a teaspoon full of metal in 15,000 miles, fairly normal. Do not let a transmission shop worry you about a small amount of metal in the pan on the magnet.

I put a transmission digital gauge on my 1985 GMC 3500 based motorhome. It ran way to hot, about 235 when going up interstate 15 from LA to Las Vegas. This was on level ground at 95F outside. Hills took the temp up beyond 255F, so I would slow down to keep it somewhat under control.

When I got home, I installed a much larger transmission cooler, and it never got above 200 on flat land, or 225 racing up a mountain. It also helped keep the radiator a little cooler too.

When I bought a new 1997 Ford motorhome, it stayed cool all the time, and never reached above 225 on the mountain grades.

If you need a larger cooler, then check out DeRalle at your local auto parts store or JcWhitney.com

Good luck,

Fred.

PRodacy wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
How steap? How long of a grade?
Basic rules, go down in the same gear you went up. When speed increases more than your comfortable with, brake hard enough to slow quickly to 5MPH below desired speed. DO NOT ride the brakes.

Going down in the same gear you went up in assumes that the grade is the same on both sides. Not usually true. As others have recommended, drop into a lower gear and brake intermittently; don't ride the brakes.

Nor does that hold true with Cummins Diesel.

I have 5.9L tow 14K 5vr and go up 7% grades in 4th (OD) at 62+ mph no sweat.

OP....

Use TOW/Haul Mode...tranny will downshift when you decelerate and use braking by 'firm stabbing of brakes' to scrub 10-15 miles an hour off speed then get off the brakes. Repeat the firm braking/scrubbing speed until at bottom of grade. DO NOT RIDE the brakes.

mikemc53 wrote:
OK, basically looking for opinions here.

I have a Dodge Ram 3500 Quad Cab with the 5.9L Cummins - 2004.5. I pull a 2016 Rockwood 8329SS, which is a 35 foot, 8900 lb TT. I have no real concerns with the truck's ability to handle the TT - it does that quite well. My question involves traveling where there are fairly steep grades. The uphills don't cause me much pause but the downhills, I have heard, can be a bit tricky. My truck does not have an exhaust brake and the expense of one, at this time, is the main reason that I still don't have one.

So, leaving the exhaust brake out of it, what are some of the more accepted methods for handling the downhill grades?

Thanks gang.

Well if the TC unlocks when coasting,you are down to service breaks only. I would not want to go down hill freewheeling! Before I installed my PacBrake I at least limited engine braking (very little).
Now that I have a PacBrake on my 01, and my 5 speed manual I don't worry as I almost never have to touch the service brakes.

PacBreak runs about $1,500 for the kit, no not cheap, but the comfort level is so relaxing.

Sans a EB, I would put the best pad material on your TV and follow the recommendations on braking and going slow.

PS: to the point of early 5.9 not having good EB, the Jacobs is not as good as a PacBrake. You could check with the local Cummins parts house as to the cost of a Jacobs kit as it will be less than the PacBrake, but the PacBrake will be far more effective.

Always start your downhill going slower than you think you should, they will wait until it is safe for you to pull over. I would rather go down the hill in first gear and remain in control than second or third gear and not be able to stop or control my rig to handle an emergency stop.

I had a 2001 Ram 2500 with the Cummins and auto, I made sure that I had an exhaust brake when I changed rigs. JH

Go slow. Use the brakes moderately firm to drop 15 to 25 mph at a time. Then let it coast back up to speed. Do not ride the brakes to maintain a steady speed. Brake before the curve.

I find starting the decent slow and keeping it very slow works for me. If you think you can handle 30MPH, keep it at less than 30MPH. Lower the gear range and lock it in. Never build up too much speed to begin with and never feel pushed by an impatient driver behind you. Pull over when/if you can. If not continue at your pace. It's your life that depends on it and maybe others.

Love the Cummins, but the engine braking in that vintage isn't very good.

I know you said that the exhaust brake isn't in the cards, but if you are towing a lot in the mountains you might reconsider.

I added the Jacobs to my 03 as one of the first options. I could tow 16000 pounds down Eisenhower in Colorado without hardly ever using the brakes. If you go that route, find a local Cummins service shop. They will do the Jacobs for about half what the Dodge/RAM dealer will charge.

donn0128 wrote:

Basic rules, go down in the same gear you went up. When speed increases more than your comfortable with, brake hard enough to slow quickly to 5MPH below desired speed. DO NOT ride the brakes.

Agree, and maybe even one gear lower than what you used on ascent. Another reply to your post pointed out that the grade on the descent may not be the same as the ascent. True, but don't assume it will be less. Enjoy & be safe.

I assume you have an auto tranny? My '97 2500 Dodge CTD had the 47RE transmission. Letting off the throttle would unlock the TC and the truck would freewheel down the mountains. I installed a PakBrake exhaust brake after the first tow that heated my brakes up. Most of the problem was following a flatlander driving a semi with a load of hay coming down Berthoud Pass at "OMG Terrified!" speeds of 10 MPH and wouldn't pull over to let traffic go by. In retrospect, I should have been the one to pull over and let him get 30 minutes ahead!

However, you said EB is not an option, so, for non-Rockies kind of slopes, the above recommendations are the best I can say "ditto" to ... except the unlocked TC...

someone suggested a little bit of throttle keeps everything locked up and you can then get some engine braking but that was after I installed the EB.

My 07 Ram 2500 CTD has the 6 speed manual, so I get more control over gear selection and have not yet felt the need for an EB ... yet.