TP in the gate valve

[Sweet_Ole_Bob]

I screwed up! Had the kids with me and they love to use the dump valves. (YES, I know better) THey got bored and closed the valve with some TP in the gate. Now it's part of the structure. ANy ideas? I looked under the 5'ver and the drian pipe goes back about 4ft before turning 90% and sitting securely behind the belly cover. The only thing I can think of is back flushing but I'm open and receptive to others.
HELP!!!

[Sweet_Ole_Bob]

Thank You Bob, a new idea! I will try that in the spring when we are ready to roll again. Meantime I poured 6 gallons of windshield wiper solvent/antifreeze down the toilet with the valve open and the cap on the drain. Two months of soak, followed by the boiling water and a Flush King back wash, might just work. I really, really don't want to cut the underbelly. Wish me luck....I'll report the results in the spring.

[Bob_Vaughn]

Our valve would always drip so we dumped the tank then when it was empty we poured boiling hot water down the toilet and let it soak for a short while then just cracked open the gate so the water would slowly escape. What ever was keeping the gate from closing completely was washed out...

[kakampers]

Changing a remote gate valve is not all that hard....we've replaced several over the years. They are usually right at the end of the tank...we just drop the belly pan.

In some cases, you may have to cut the pan and then re-secure with tape, but it is not difficult if you are even just a little mechanically inclined.

[B_O__Plenty]

ol Bombero-JC wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
An old coat hanger and 15 seconds works for me. :B

For lots of 5ers (and MHs) with remote gate valves you would need a 20 foot coat hanger!..:S

It sure *wouldn't* work for me - whether you started at the input (toilet) or output (drain) side!..:R

So - the flush king (backflush device) is an inexpensive item, as well as adding the portable valve (Valterra - available on Amazon) at the end of your 3" sewer pipe.
Leave the clogged valve open and give the TP time to dissolve.

BTW - everyone should have the/an add-on discharge valve.

Could be the best $15 you ever spend!..:W

~

The add on valve should be standard equipment they work so well. I'll NEVER have an RV without one.

B.O.

[MitchF150]

Same thing happened to me, except, no kids I could blame.. 😉

Your setup sounds like mine, in that the valve is right up against the tank then a 90 bend to the side of the trailer. The valve handle has a really long extension to the valve.

But, I don't have a sealed under carriage, so it was easy to get to.

What I did was leave the valve open all winter. I left the cap off the end as well... This allowed the tank to dry out completely.

Come Spring and I got the motivation to do the job, I removed the valve assembly and cleared the little tiny piece of TP that was causing my leakage.

I think it would take several gallons of water to fill up the pipe and then I don't think the way the TP was wedged into the groove so tightly, that it would have simply 'dissolved' to where it wouldn't be there anymore even if it soaked for a year...

I tried to back flush, shove the hose up the pipe, use the spray wand and nothing worked. Until I took the valve off..

Good luck with whatever you do!

Mitch

[Sweet_Ole_Bob]

OK the guy who wanted the update. I did nothing but winterize. When the weather warms I'll try the slow soak first, folled by the flush king. Figure the soak will soften. Fingers crossed!

Tempted to dump a couple of gallons of windshield antifreeze down now and let it soak for the next couple of months. Just not sure how much would be needed to backfill the pipe to the valve.

[enblethen]

Many hardware stores have galvanized wire used to support drop ceiling railings. It is about the same size but stiffer.

[mrgreetis]

I haven't had to use one for a couple of years, but a dry cleaner may still use the steel ones.

Mike

[Turtle_n_Peeps]

Dtank wrote:

Airstreamer67 wrote:
I used to have an old trailer with one of those closeby valves. It was no big deal fixing. Now I have a new tailer with the valve 8 feet away. Now it is a big deal. And they say it's progress.

Obviously, the T-n-P ("Turtle n Peeps") technique for TP - is not for "all"..:S

Maybe the OP will come back and tell us how he resolved his Nov. dilemma!

BTW - a vote for adding a valve in the 3" line somewhere closer to the slinky connection.

Leave the 8' away "original" in the open position.
Then you can T-n-P it with the coat hanger - or easily replace it.

Maybe even re-use the coat hanger?????..:B

What say you T-n-P..:h

.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm, I'm all for recycling and saving the world and all of that but sometimes things can be taken too far! :B I think in this case I will keep this coat hanger in my tool box instead of the closet.

On another note. Do they even make steel coat hangers anymore? If not I might as well give up on life. I'm lost without steel coat hangers. I have fixed more stuff with steel coat hangers than duct tape.

[SH]

Another vote for the Flush King. Even with a tank "flusher" I was surprised how much extra "stuff" drained out using the Flush King. It seems to put a lot more water through the pipes and tanks in a very short time. Beware...pay close attention when using one! 🙂

[Dtank]

Airstreamer67 wrote:
I used to have an old trailer with one of those closeby valves. It was no big deal fixing. Now I have a new tailer with the valve 8 feet away. Now it is a big deal. And they say it's progress.

Obviously, the T-n-P ("Turtle n Peeps") technique for TP - is not for "all"..:S

Maybe the OP will come back and tell us how he resolved his Nov. dilemma!

BTW - a vote for adding a valve in the 3" line somewhere closer to the slinky connection.

Leave the 8' away "original" in the open position.
Then you can T-n-P it with the coat hanger - or easily replace it.

Maybe even re-use the coat hanger?????..:B

What say you T-n-P..:h

.

[Airstreamer67]

I used to have an old trailer with one of those closeby valves. It was no big deal fixing. Now I have a new tailer with the valve 8 feet away. Now it is a big deal. And they say it's progress.

[Turtle_n_Peeps]

ol Bombero-JC wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
An old coat hanger and 15 seconds works for me. :B

For lots of 5ers (and MHs) with remote gate valves you would need a 20 foot coat hanger!..:S

It sure *wouldn't* work for me - whether you started at the input (toilet) or output (drain) side!..:R

So - the flush king (backflush device) is an inexpensive item, as well as adding the portable valve (Valterra - available on Amazon) at the end of your 3" sewer pipe.
Leave the clogged valve open and give the TP time to dissolve.

BTW - everyone should have the/an add-on discharge valve.

Could be the best $15 you ever spend!..:W

~

Or it could be like mine and the opening is 3" away from the opening and my coat hanger works great. :B

[ol_Bombero-JC]

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
An old coat hanger and 15 seconds works for me. :B

For lots of 5ers (and MHs) with remote gate valves you would need a 20 foot coat hanger!..:S

It sure *wouldn't* work for me - whether you started at the input (toilet) or output (drain) side!..:R

So - the flush king (backflush device) is an inexpensive item, as well as adding the portable valve (Valterra - available on Amazon) at the end of your 3" sewer pipe.
Leave the clogged valve open and give the TP time to dissolve.

BTW - everyone should have the/an add-on discharge valve.

Could be the best $15 you ever spend!..:W

~