Understanding what I can tow

[MetalGator]

I have been towing a TT for the last 3 years and have a good understanding about GVWR, tongue weight and other weights that go along with towing a trailer. I am planning on a class A in the future and want to make sure I understand the basics of dinghy towing.

Most of the Class A motor homes I have looked at have a tow rating of 5000lbs with 500lbs tongue weight. The wife wants to purchase a Jeep Wrangler unlimited. In looking at the weight of the jeep, they can range anywhere from 4100lbs-4500lbs according to the options. I am going to use 4500 in my calculations.

Many of the Class A's have a GVWR of 22,000lbs and a GCWR of 26,000lbs. So if my motor home is loaded to the max (22,000lbs), my limitation for towing is the GCWR-GVWR = 4000lbs. In this case I would be 500lbs overweight even though I am under the 5000lb tow rating.

If my motor home is not loaded to the max and only weights in at 20,000lbs, then the limitation is the tow rating of 5000lbs since my actual weight is 20,000 and the GCWR is 26000 which leaves me with 6000lbs until I hit my GCWR.

When I first starting looking at Class A's, I would see the 22,000 GVWR and the 26,000lb GCWR and assume 4000lbs towing max but if my understanding is correct, that is only the case if you are loaded to the max. I find it interesting that many manufactures don't list the dry weights of their motor homes. I guess it's probably because they can be optioned so many different ways that the actual dry weights would be all over the place.

Is my thinking sound? I want to make sure I understand all the limitations before I drop the big bucks on the RV and the toad.

Burch

[mowermech]

OR, you can just do what I have done (if you wish).
I had a 1995 Tioga Class C on an E350/Ford 460 chassis. I had a local welder reinforce the 3500 pound receiver, and towed my Jeep (see sig) over the Continental Divide several times, no trouble.
Now, I have a 32 foot Class A on a Ford V10 chassis, and tow the same Jeep over the same highways, still with no trouble.
I have no idea what my Jeep weighs, and don't care. It is mildly modified, with custom bumpers, winch, 30 gallon gas tank, lifts, and extra skid plates.
I plan to tow my Dodge 1500 behind the class A. Again, I don't know what it weighs, and don't care. I will get a tow bar rated for 6 to 10K lbs. and hook it up. If it works, fine. If it struggles too much, I will think of something else.
I refuse to spend an inordinate amount of time stressing over numbers.

[bocanut50]

Welcome to the wonderful world of RVing!! It's always a challenge.

[MetalGator]

DP is not an option. For the amount of time I use our RV, a DP would be overkill. Actually, a class A gas is probably overkill but sometimes "want" overcomes "need". 🙂

[dubdub07]

MetalGator,

Flat towing in flat Florida, even a little bit over, is not going to be an issue. Even in the mountains, you would could just not put water in the belly and be under weight. Even though rockhillmanor says you might pass a DP, you won't pass anyone going up a pass. The gasser/toad combo will tuck in with the semis.

[rk911]

MetalGator wrote:
I guess I should have added the weights of the base plate, hitch and other equipment for towing the toad to the weight of the jeep (4500lbs) but I would assume the weights of the equipment would be under 500lbs total.

when you flat tow a vehicle there is virtually no tongue weight on the hitch but yes, the total weight of the towing equipment has to be included in the weight of the toad. the good news is that the aluminum tow bars, steel baseplates, etc. don't add much weight.

[MetalGator]

rockhillmanor wrote:
Buy the 'lightest' weight car you can find that can be towed 4 down.
You won't regret it when you are trying to make it up a steep grade or even small hills. All those spec weights are based on towing on flat ground. Not uphill!

I still fly by even the biggest DP's with my light weight little tow car when going up hills.

I live in Florida so 99% of my towing will be done in flat driving and occasionally some hilly areas.

[dubdub07]

Unless you find an older car or a Smart car, I cannot see you finding much that are less than 3500lbs in most in this light range will be manual trannys. The Wrangler is a good choice, only 4100lbs, and can be towed with a manual or auto as long as they are 4wd. Rockhillmanor, really?

[rk911]

MetalGator wrote:
I have been towing a TT for the last 3 years and have a good understanding about GVWR, tongue weight and other weights that go along with towing a trailer. I am planning on a class A in the future and want to make sure I understand the basics of dinghy towing.

Most of the Class A motor homes I have looked at have a tow rating of 5000lbs with 500lbs tongue weight. The wife wants to purchase a Jeep Wrangler unlimited. In looking at the weight of the jeep, they can range anywhere from 4100lbs-4500lbs according to the options. I am going to use 4500 in my calculations.

Many of the Class A's have a GVWR of 22,000lbs and a GCWR of 26,000lbs. So if my motor home is loaded to the max (22,000lbs), my limitation for towing is the GCWR-GVWR = 4000lbs. In this case I would be 500lbs overweight even though I am under the 5000lb tow rating.

If my motor home is not loaded to the max and only weights in at 20,000lbs, then the limitation is the tow rating of 5000lbs since my actual weight is 20,000 and the GCWR is 26000 which leaves me with 6000lbs until I hit my GCWR.

When I first starting looking at Class A's, I would see the 22,000 GVWR and the 26,000lb GCWR and assume 4000lbs towing max but if my understanding is correct, that is only the case if you are loaded to the max. I find it interesting that many manufactures don't list the dry weights of their motor homes. I guess it's probably because they can be optioned so many different ways that the actual dry weights would be all over the place.

Is my thinking sound? I want to make sure I understand all the limitations before I drop the big bucks on the RV and the toad.

Burch

yes, your thinking is sound. the maximum weight one can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

- the GCWR minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (food, fuel, water, LP, clothing, supplies, pets, people and misc. stuff); OR

- the weight rating of the MH hitch (Class II 3500-lbs, Class III 5000-lbs, Class IV 10,000-lbs); OR

- the weight rating of your towbar

knowing the actual weights, by axle would be preferable, of your MH and toad is, in my opinion, critical. while shopping for a new MH back in 2000 we found a unit whose actual GVW was less than the GVWR but the front axle weight was less than the front GAWR than the rear axle weight was greater than the rear GAWR. if we had just gone with the total weight (both axles on the scale) we would never have known that the rear axle was overweight. this is why I preach individual axle weights and knowing...not assuming...what the MH and toad actually weigh instead of relying on weight ratings.

good luck to you.

[rockhillmanor]

Buy the 'lightest' weight car you can find that can be towed 4 down.
You won't regret it when you are trying to make it up a steep grade or even small hills. All those spec weights are based on towing on flat ground. Not uphill!

I still fly by even the biggest DP's with my light weight little tow car when going up hills.

[MetalGator]

I guess I should have added the weights of the base plate, hitch and other equipment for towing the toad to the weight of the jeep (4500lbs) but I would assume the weights of the equipment would be under 500lbs total.