WD hitch

I use the Prodigy and it's great, a big upgrade from the old Draw-Tite. Best way to think of the proportional controllers is that they use the gyro-chip, which is the same chip that made the Wii possible and that let's the iPhone have apps like a level, etc. The chip in the controller actually senses how fast the truck is decelerating and increases current to the trailer brakes proportionately. Result is very smooth and safe braking.

Regarding the hitch, sounds like some guys know the Blue Ox and like it so probably a good bet. As I said the hitch hardware is not as important as how its set up, so pay attention to that and re-adjust after you pack the trailer.

Good luck with the new trailer and be sure to post some pics over in the TT forum when you pick it up!

Jeremiah, thanks!

There is so much to know. I can't wait to get the trailer and go from researching to doing.

tmas wrote:
Thanks. I have a 2009 Silverado. Looking at a 28 foot Salem, ~6000#. I think I'll go with the dealer hitch and trade up later if I want to.

One more question. What's the difference between a cheap brake controller and the top of the line?

Between the two hitches go with the Blue Ox sway pro.

"cheap" brake controllers may not be "cheap" on price so let's throw that vernacular out the window (common mistake on these forums).. No brake controller you will look at will be labeled "junk" or "cheaply made".

There are two primary brake controller designs. And the packaging will indicate either Time Based or Proportional.

1) Time Based (often referred to as Junk or Cheap on here). What a time bead brake controller does is ramp up the amount of trailer braking power from zero to a full power setting. The "more expensive" time based controllers allow you to set not only the power on the brake controller but the amount of time it takes from the moment you touch the brake pedal to the time that the trailer brakes are full power. Typically you can set the "ramp up time" from 0-5 seconds.

There are cheaper Time Based brake controllers who only let you set the power. The ramp up time is preset around 3 seconds. However the power to the trailer brakes is fully adjustable, typically by a big easy to access power adjustment wheel.

The best time based controllers IMHO from the expensive category are the Draw-Tite Activator II and the Activator III. The Cheaper time based controllers that perform well is the Hayes Sycronizer (my personal favorite time based controller) and the Reese POD

Time based controllers are more jerky in some cases because if you set it perfect for slow conditions around town you may not have enough power on the highway. What a lot of people will do is reduce power to the trailer brakes for stop and go, or in town Traffic and then increase the power to the trailer brakes on the highway.

A few of the advantages to a time based brake controller is that the control is solid state and requires no leveling. Just mount it, wire it, and it will work. If the tv skids while applying brakes the trailer will still get a brake signal.

2) Proportional brake controllers send the brake power to the trailer in proportion to how fast the tow vehicle is stopping. There are a lot of different kinds of proportional controllers out there. But the two best are the Prodigy P2 or P3 controller (at least that's the seeming consensus on here). The prodigy's "self levels itself" so it's a little easier to mount. There is also another type of proportional controller that requires you to set the level. Set either proportional controller up per the instructions and they will serve you well with much less jerking. When properly set a proportional brake controller is nearly set it and forget it.

Generally the overwhelming recommendation is to get the proportional controller. Either the time based or the proportional will stop the trailer and both have a manual override so you can manually activate the trailer brakes apart demo the tow vehicle.

I have used both types of brake control and both were capable is safely stopping the trailer. After I got use to the power adjustment for conditions my time based experience became better. Proportional was very very nice after it was set correctly.

Sorry for the book!

Jeremiah

Thanks. I have a 2009 Silverado. Looking at a 28 foot Salem, ~6000#. I think I'll go with the dealer hitch and trade up later if I want to.

One more question. What's the difference between a cheap brake controller and the top of the line?

Without knowing what you're towing, what you're towing with, and how far you are going it's hard to say whether you could scrape by at 40 mph without a WD hitch just to get home.

Assuming that you can't, ask the dealer if you can get the Equal-i-zer brand hitch. If he can get the E2, he should be able to get the Equal-i-zer, since made by the same company. Could be that those two options are the ones he is willing to "include" in the sales package with the trailer, ask if he has other hitches available if you want to upgrade. If not, ask if he will install a hitch if you buy it and bring it with you.

Worst case, it's not the end of the world, pick one of the two he is offering and tow your trailer home. If you don't like it you can always sell it on CL and upgrade.

Regarding installation, please take some time to read and digest this sticky at the top of the Towing Forum regarding WD hitch set-up.

Your dealer will install and adjust the hitch before you leave the lot, but it will need to be adjusted again. The reason being once you pack all your stuff in the trailer, how/where things get loaded will affect the weight and balance of the trailer and 99% of the time the hitch will need to be re-adjusted. Also where the water tank is located (ahead or behind the axles) and whether you plan to tow with water on board.

Once you have the trailer home and packed the way it would be when you go camping, follow the procedures in the sticky above to get the hitch dialed in. Don't forget about cargo in the tow vehicle, that will affect hitch adjustment also.

First TT in 2000 I got the standard hitch from the dealer and let them install it. I thought I was smarter in 2002, and on our 34' TT I told the dealer to keep his hitch as my brand new Hensley was home in a box. Drove home about 20 miles with a borrowed hitch without WD, the trailer would start to sway if I got over 45 mph. Headlights scanning the trees ahead for squirrels. Was not pleasant on the expressway at rush hour. Current TT I took the Hensley with me and the dealer agreed to let me install it myself in the parking lot. Of course it was December and it started to snow....

Another dealer is offering me a Husky 30849 hitch. My issue is I can't drive the trailer off the lot with the WD hitch. I feel like I'm at the mercy of the dealer.

Suggestions?

How hard are they to install? How would it work if I'm driving up there to pick it up?

bikendan wrote:
the E-2 is a watered-down version of the superior Equal-i-zer 4 point WDH, that's made overseas, while the Equal-i-zer is American-made.

you can get the real Equal-i-zer for about $447 with free shipping.

Agreed, tell the dealer you want a credit since you have your own hitch, and get either the Equal-i-zer or the Reese StraightLine (dual cam). Interesting seeing Blue Ox call claim the "other guys" are using 50 year old technology...LOL.

Of course if you want top shelf you can go with either the ProPride P3 or the venerable Hensley Arrow, both of which outperform anything else on the market.

the E-2 is a watered-down version of the superior Equal-i-zer 4 point WDH, that's made overseas, while the Equal-i-zer is American-made.

you can get the real Equal-i-zer for about $447 with free shipping.

The dealer is giving a choice between the E-2 hitch and Blue Ox. Thoughts, opinions?

Blue Ox. But, better yet, get your own hitch and get exactly what you want, not a choice between two that you might not like.