WDH selection/trailer loading advice.

Great choice!

For moving the trailer once or twice a year I would just use uship.com and bid out someone to move your trailer unless you have a good friend with a capable truck.

For future uses I would try to get a Single Rear Wheel 3500 series truck rated to haul 15,000 ish lbs.

There are many many many trailers that will work with your current truck for RV use. I suggest the Apex or Bullet lines. You get a lot trailer for not a lot of weight.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

Thanks everyone for the information; especially jerem0621 for putting things in the proper perspective. Some of those things I thought (should have known). All were accepted in the nature intended and I'll use it to make informed decisions (NOT TO TOW 14K WITH AN F150). I was thinking new tow vehicle. Then started thinking - the wife - I can't just hide a tow vehicle like all those new guns in the back of the safe. Then I told her I joined a forum. She's worried, thinking Cheating House Wives or something. Then I tell her about the towing dilemma, and the "guidance" I received. She is in agreement - no overload towing! And something about I don't have enough life insurance. Then she tells me what she is willing to do so that we can rent/borrow a truck when the need arises (now I'm worried).

So in the short term I'll be borrowing/renting. In the long term: Probably focus a future RV purchase around a tow weight I can handle with the F150. I really like the performance, ride characteristics, and economy (and it will still fit through the drive thru at Taco Bell). Eventually purchase a HD hauler. What realistically is the minimum vehicle I should consider for a 14K mover? Do I need an F350 or GM/Mopar 3500 product with duallies? And no Ivylog that Freightliner is never going to happen (except maybe in that dream I have with Jennifer Anniston).

I will add that I did contact the people at www.equalizerhitch.com and asked them about a hitch recommendation (I did not tell them F150 TV). Here is their reply:

Thanks for your email. To put it simply I'd still recommend that 14,000 lb hitch (90-00-1400) if you're going to be towing 14,000 lbs. Even if you can manipulate tongue weight so much. How often do you intend to be towing just the empty 3,000 lb trailer? You would notice a bit of a stiffer ride using that hitch with an empty trailer but it's just not a good idea to try to tow a full load with a hitch that isn't rated for that.

One other thing you may want to invest in, given your situation, is a tongue
weight scale. That way you can load your trailer perfectly so that the tongue
weight is right in the appropriate range to utilize your equalizer hitch and get a smooth ride. As far as airbags go if you have your equalizer hitch properly installed and adjusted that should eliminate most of the need for airbags to help level things. We normally recommend for people who already have them to set them all to about 20 lbs then just install the hitch normally from there.

I hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

2

nobozo wrote:
Thanks for the information, please indulge me further. If: the trailer brakes are adequate to control the deceleration of the trailer (and stop it). As long as I can keep the truck in front of the trailer (with the help of the WDH and airbags), and I can keep the truck pointed in the right direction, and I can control the direction by steering input, and have the H.P. to get the trailer moving; what is the critical requirement for a larger truck?

My 2010 F150 4 x 4 crew cab (6 ½’ bed) with V-8 has 3,200 miles on it. I can’t really justify replacing it with a larger vehicle for the 1-2 times a year I might have to move a “massive load” (try selling that to the wife). The 2015 Ford F150 lists towing specs up to “Best-in-class 12,200-lb. maximum tow rating**” So, what significant improvement did Ford make (over my 2010) to a stock truck to accommodate this capacity, that I cannot duplicate with aftermarket modifications (besides the 700lbs weight reduction by using aluminum components instead of sheet metal)?

I hope I’m getting a “little” smarter. Some years back I towed a 22’ trailer with farm implements tipping the scale at little over 10K, 1K miles RT to/from a dealer with a 2000 Ranger 4.0L 4 x 4 TV. Augmented by no more than overload springs and a brake controller at highway speeds. The dealer told me before departure “if you make it back, first thing you should do is; stop at a Ford dealer. Because they are go ‘in to wanna put you in a commercial.”

I did make it back and have pictures of the tow package sitting in front of the local dealer. I decided I wasn’t going to do that again. Maybe more surprising; I didn’t get stopped through two states of interstate driving. They didn’t put the vehicle in a commercial but, I was surprised at the trade in the dealer offered me. So, I moved up to my first F150.

Anyway, I am not quite sure how manufacturers establish the capacities of their vehicles?

First you have a V8. The new Max tow Ford has a twin turbo V6 making WAY more power than your V8. That tow cap is also on the HD150.

now can you duplicate it with after market stuff? NO!

Control is what makes you need a bigger truck. Yes you can get it moving, and yes the trailer brakes will help stop it. And yes you may NEVER get into a emergency situation when you really need more truck. Like when you have to dodge something, or your truck cuts a tire, or someone cuts you off. If you want to take that chance go ahead.

At any rate. You are thousands of pounds over weight. I don't mind towing right up to the max, and maybe even a little over. But you are THOUSANDS over. Your reciever is not designed to carry / pull that weight. I doubt you ball is designed to pull that weight. Most balls on 150s have a 10,000lb limit. There is way more to this than getting it moving. Stopping in a straight line is way different than emergency stopping in a sharp turn.

It's your life, do what you want. You have already shown that as long as you can move it, You think you are good to go. I just hope no one else has to pay for your carelessness.

OP... I am not going to address your trailer weight. Your over weight and you know it... Now let's get down to some mods and set up that you need to do to do this safely.

Disclaimer, this is free advice for entertainment purposes... You run your rig at your own risk.. It's 100% up to you to make sure your components are sound... In other words... Don't blame this forum if something goes very wrong in your open eyed overload situation.

With that said... If I had to make due in your situation

1) you need more tongue weight... 500 lbs on a 14,000 lb rig is not enough. I suspect that proper tongue weight will be 1400-2000 lbs

2) Your receiver is likely very overloaded. I'm not sure of any company that makes a F150 receiver rated for 15,000 lbs. You need to have your hitch reinforced and gusseted and extended further up the frame to help spread the load...Basically your in new territory and need custom reinforced receiver.

3) your tires are P rated tires... You need to upgrade to LT tires to get more load capacity in the rear tires... I would look at some new wheels from a 2015 F150 with the HD payload package to get increased wheel capacity..I'm not sure if the lug pattern is the same or not... But both trucks are 6 lug

4) your rear suspension will need help with either some Timbrens, spring helpers, or some airbags... Your choice..

5) Your rear axle will need some love. I would purchase a finned extra capacity diff cover with a Temp Sender Port so you can keep an eye on the rear diff temp and give the diff a chance at staying cool.

6) you need a big WD hitch for this combo... Think the 15,000 Curt Trunnion, 17,000 lb Reese, or 2,000 lb blue Ox..

With all that said, I would take the extra money that you are going to spend on band aids and buy a proper HD truck for your HD load.

There is more at stake here than money... Much much more.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

Thanks for the information, please indulge me further. If: the trailer brakes are adequate to control the deceleration of the trailer (and stop it). As long as I can keep the truck in front of the trailer (with the help of the WDH and airbags), and I can keep the truck pointed in the right direction, and I can control the direction by steering input, and have the H.P. to get the trailer moving; what is the critical requirement for a larger truck?

My 2010 F150 4 x 4 crew cab (6 ½’ bed) with V-8 has 3,200 miles on it. I can’t really justify replacing it with a larger vehicle for the 1-2 times a year I might have to move a “massive load” (try selling that to the wife). The 2015 Ford F150 lists towing specs up to “Best-in-class 12,200-lb. maximum tow rating**” So, what significant improvement did Ford make (over my 2010) to a stock truck to accommodate this capacity, that I cannot duplicate with aftermarket modifications (besides the 700lbs weight reduction by using aluminum components instead of sheet metal)?

I hope I’m getting a “little” smarter. Some years back I towed a 22’ trailer with farm implements tipping the scale at little over 10K, 1K miles RT to/from a dealer with a 2000 Ranger 4.0L 4 x 4 TV. Augmented by no more than overload springs and a brake controller at highway speeds. The dealer told me before departure “if you make it back, first thing you should do is; stop at a Ford dealer. Because they are go ‘in to wanna put you in a commercial.”

I did make it back and have pictures of the tow package sitting in front of the local dealer. I decided I wasn’t going to do that again. Maybe more surprising; I didn’t get stopped through two states of interstate driving. They didn’t put the vehicle in a commercial but, I was surprised at the trade in the dealer offered me. So, I moved up to my first F150.

Anyway, I am not quite sure how manufacturers establish the capacities of their vehicles?

Way more truck yes! But, a 14000/1400 WDH is the right set up for that trailer and load.

If your equipment trailer acts the same as a travel trailer, too much weight off the tongue, will cause trailer sway. A WD hitch with sway control, won't fix that, and, in a tug of war, that 13 - 14,000 lbs of trailer, will win over a 6,000 lb truck.

There are no modifications you can do to the truck, that will increase its
capacities.

You need more truck.

I'm really not the one to throw stones as I once weighed 30K combined with my F350 and Goose Neck trailer with a track hoe on it. Since I haul equipment all of the time I went with a M2 Freightliner to pull my heavier loads.


OP, I believe this is an understatement: "Obviously, I lack knowledge in this area " and even with a G N trailer you will be pushing your luck with a F150. Granted you can position the load so you are not over the trucks rear axle rating and doing something like this will help in not needing WD but you do not have enough truck for what you want to do. IF it was only a couple of miles and IF you kept the speed below 20 mph and IF you only did it a couple times a year, and IF no one else did something stupid and IF there are no hills... that's a lot of IF's.
I've pushed my luck a fair amount but at some point you need to know when you've gone too far. Borrow a real truck when you need to move it.

You need MORE truck. You are grossly OVER loaded. By several thousand lbs. Nothing you can do, with bring you in side the towing capacity of your 150.