Weight distribution or no?

[CrowsnestGuy]

Recently bought a new trailer (18ft Retro 177) and I don't know if I need a weight distribution hitch for it? I have a Blue Ox Sway Pro from my old 30ft trailer but the 1000# bars are way to much. The new trailer has a 550 pound tongue weight after propane and batteries and the max trailer weight is 3500#.
I pull this with a 2013 F150 Ecoboost Max tow package.
I looked at the Anderson Hitch but I think the trailer frame is to small for this hitch.
Any help would be great.

[CrowsnestGuy]

CrowsnestGuy wrote:
Just another quick question.
When you size your WDH do you include the weight you put in the back of the truck like firewood, generator etc? As well as the tongue weight?
Thank you.

Ok Google helps. Answered my own question.


Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) refers to the weight of the fully loaded trailer in its actual towing condition.
GTW is measured by placing the fully loaded trailer on a vehicle scale.
Rating of weight-distribution system must match or exceed your GTW.
Tongue Weight (TW) refers to the tongue weight of your trailer plus the weight of the cargo that sits behind the rear axle of your vehicle.
Trailer TW is measured using a tongue weight scale
Typically, about 10 to 15 percent of GTW
Weight of cargo behind the rear axle can be measured using a commercial scale
Weigh vehicle without cargo
Weigh vehicle with cargo loaded
Subtract initial weight from weight of loaded vehicle

Getting TW for Weight-Distribution Systems


Tongue Weight (for weight distribution) = trailer tongue weight + vehicle cargo load behind rear axle

The TW rating is the most important factor in determining which size weight-distribution system you should use. If the bars of the system you choose are rated too high for your setup, they will create a rigid ride, which can result in a bouncing trailer. If, on the other hand, the bars are not rated high enough, the system will be unable to properly distribute the weight, rendering it virtually useless.

Here's an example:
If you have a trailer that has a TW of 700 lbs, and your vehicle has 100 lbs of cargo in the trunk, then your overall, weight-distribution TW is 800 lbs. Choosing a weight-distribution system with a 1,500-lb TW rating may lead to erratic performance because it is rated too high. On the other hand, if you choose a system rated too low, say at 500 lbs, the system would be ineffective. Choose a weight-distribution system with a TW rating that is closest to your towing setup's TW to ensure the best performance.

[CrowsnestGuy]

Just another quick question.
When you size your WDH do you include the weight you put in the back of the truck like firewood, generator etc? As well as the tongue weight?
Thank you.

[CrowsnestGuy]

Campfire Time wrote:

mowermech wrote:


The WD hitch is also necessary if the weight of the trailer takes too much weight off of the tow vehicle steering.

This is the correct answer. There is a spec for this in your owners manual. You measure the front fender height before and after the trailer is set on the hitch. GM says to adjust the WDH so that the front fender is back to stock height. I believe Ford allows for half the distance.

I think it's possible that you won't need one. But I would hook it up and drive it down the freeway. If the steering feels "squirrelly", that is that you don't have the same level of control as not towing, then yes you need the WDH hitch. Keep in mind that where it becomes the biggest issue is when getting pelted with a 30 mph cross wind.

Sway control is insurance. You don't need it until you need it. People will say "I've towed 100 million miles without a problem". That may be. But there is that one in a million incident that causes uncontrolled sway.

Think I will just leave it for now. When I put the trailer on I am lucky if the truck squats an inch so no problem there. Was more about sway as 3-4 months a year were I live we regularly get 70-90km/h wind gusts here. I normally stay off the roads then but sometimes it sneaks up on ya.
Thanks for the help

[CrowsnestGuy]

3oaks wrote:

downtheroad wrote:
You can also just buy lighter weight bars for your existing Sway Pro.
Not all that expensive.

Replacement SwayPro bars >>>HERE

Good suggestion. That is what I would do if I was in that situation.

I could try to order from Amazon. Here in Canada they want 400.00 for the bars due to US exchange. I think I only paid 699.99 for the whole thing last year.

[Campfire_Time]

mowermech wrote:


The WD hitch is also necessary if the weight of the trailer takes too much weight off of the tow vehicle steering.

This is the correct answer. There is a spec for this in your owners manual. You measure the front fender height before and after the trailer is set on the hitch. GM says to adjust the WDH so that the front fender is back to stock height. I believe Ford allows for half the distance.

I think it's possible that you won't need one. But I would hook it up and drive it down the freeway. If the steering feels "squirrelly", that is that you don't have the same level of control as not towing, then yes you need the WDH hitch. Keep in mind that where it becomes the biggest issue is when getting pelted with a 30 mph cross wind.

Sway control is insurance. You don't need it until you need it. People will say "I've towed 100 million miles without a problem". That may be. But there is that one in a million incident that causes uncontrolled sway.

[RinconVTR]

CrowsnestGuy wrote:
Defiantly want some sway control.
The one time I pulled it the wind was howling and I could see the trailer blowing over the centre line with the gusts. That's really what I would like to stop.

Wind will blow semi trailers sideways too. You cant really prevent the wind having its way with you when its severe.

[RinconVTR]

Try the 1000lbs bars on the current Blue Ox first, then decide.

I run 1000lbs on my TT and have a TW of half that. Its perfect.

[mkirsch]

Of course "blinding oncoming drivers" is an exaggeration. You're not going to hitch up and go out at night, then chase down and take a poll of those oncoming drivers to see if you "blinded" them with your lights. Even if your lights are aimed properly, you probably "blinded" half of them anyway.

Also, look at your truck's RECEIVER and see what it is rated for. Likely it is rated for up to 500lbs of tongue weight before it needs a WD hitch. Anything over 500lbs, you really should use a WD hitch.

You've got bigger problems if your trailer was fishtailing so bad it was crossing the center line of the road. Sway control is not the answer there.

[3oaks]

downtheroad wrote:
You can also just buy lighter weight bars for your existing Sway Pro.
Not all that expensive.

Replacement SwayPro bars >>>HERE

Good suggestion. That is what I would do if I was in that situation.

[downtheroad]

You can also just buy lighter weight bars for your existing Sway Pro.
Not all that expensive.

Replacement SwayPro bars >>>HERE

[mowermech]

A properly built trailer, towed with a properly set up tow vehicle, with proper tires on both, that is properly loaded with 12 to 15% of the GVW on the tongue, should not sway. If a "sway control" gadget will make the driver feel better, then one should be installed.
As for a WD hitch, if the front of the tow rig does not rise to the point where the headlights are blinding oncoming drivers when on low beam, it is not needed. If the headlights ARE blinding oncoming drivers, then the WD hitch is absolutely necessary!
The WD hitch is also necessary if the weight of the trailer takes too much weight off of the tow vehicle steering. I have read of that happening, although I have never experienced it.

[CrowsnestGuy]

Defiantly want some sway control.
The one time I pulled it the wind was howling and I could see the trailer blowing over the centre line with the gusts. That's really what I would like to stop.

[Second_Chance]

You may not need weight distribution, but you will probably like having some sort of sway control.

[handye9]

Andersen frame brackets are available for 3 - 6 inch frames.

Here's a link.